Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items => Topic started by: acbrock on October 04, 2023, 18:28:30
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Crap, when I pulled the rubber out of the back I found Rust Underneath. Never dealt with rust before. I bought some Rust Solvents and stuff to attack it. Just not sure what I should do first? Should I soak the rust with the rust remover first and see what I can get off or should I sand / sandblast as much of it as I can first? Or should I use one of those formulas that changes the rust and then sand?
Thanks for any thoughts!
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There’s several ways to do this. I would start with a wire wheel then use a rust converter.
You might want to check your trunk seal.
I have a couple rust holes and bought a new trunk floor to put in sometime.
Kevin
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Eastwood makes a (imo) great rust converter. You won’t get any lost material back but it preserves the surface and you can paint over it afterwards.
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x2 on the wire wheel, preferably on an angle grinder, you want to get the metal as clean as possible. It's hard to say for sure, but particularly on the second photo, there appear to be a few areas that may be rusted all the way through, meaning rust converter as Dirk notes will not be a fix for that - there will be small holes in your floor. So, best remedy for that is either a whole new floor welded in (lot of work) or patches made and welded in (also a lot of work but less). Then after the rust converter has done its job, good quality primer and (preferably 2K, can be in rattle can) paint.
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Rust only gets worse with time so at the very least get it stabilized as soon as you can. Ideally, it’s just surface rust but I fear Cees is correct. Those areas of root beer colored rust are raised and very flakey. As soon as you resolve the rust issue, I’d definitely address the trunk seal. More than likely, that’s how water got in there.
I had a small amount of surface rust (caused by torn seal), once cleaned, treated and painted I tossed out the brittle rubber mat and had GAHH make a carpet piece for it. Though not OEM, much better breathability and actually nicer looking. I have new rubber mats (still in box) in case I ever decide to show the car.
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Never dealt with rust before.
acbrock, Don't forget to protect your eyes & breathing while shooting tiny rust particles everywhere!
I tossed out the brittle rubber mat and had GAHH make a carpet piece for it. Though not OEM, much better breathability and actually nicer looking.
Len, Does your trunk mat have the little rubber bumps on the bottom, like on the bottom of the Cocomat driver & passenger floor mats? Is that what you mean by better breathability? Or, is it just not rubber backed?
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ok great thanks. I will clean it up and see how bad it is and report back!
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Not rubber backed and that’s my complaint about the new cocomats for use in the trunk. Mine is just regular loop carpets that are relatively porous.
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(WARNING, potential thread hijacking in progress!)
That would be a better breathing trunk mat. But if you do get moisture in there, then you get mildew in the carpet. But, I guess that's better than rust in the metal!! :)
What's your complaint with the new Cocomats? That they don't have texture on the rubber backing? Or that they don't have a rubber backing at all? The ones I bought about 3 or 4 years ago had a durable rubber backing with the nubbins (for lack of a better word).
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The new cocomats with rubber backing is no different than using the OEM rubber mat. The nubs on the cocomats may promote better circulation but only nominally. I will grant you that there is no perfect solution other than periodically checking on the trunk and airing it out. I suppose a good trunk seal actually provides the very best protection though in humid climates water vapor can still get in and condense.
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I have noticed that significant water can get in from the soft-top compartment -- that seal gets worn on both sides (as we all know) when the top is pulled out or put away. This leaves a nice gap for water to flow in - especially when someone washes the car and sprays water horizontally at either top. Some water makes it down the drains in the soft-top, but depending on the angle of the car, a lot can get into the trunk.
Test it if you want - it's enlightening and will make you want a new soft-top compartment seal and you will definitely use the plastic sliders when moving the soft top around.
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Yes on the Eye and Breathing protection! So I guess I just keep using the metal brush until I see clean Metal or I create a hole...
I have begun but need to take a break. I will get back at it later and see if I can clean it all up.
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Thanks for all the info. I had to take some time off to do the real job to pay for all this! But I am back at it this week. I am almost done with the rust. My plan is to wire brush it all down. Even if I dont see anymore apply some Rust converter, then Prime it and Paint... Is there a specific black that is used on this car?
Also I have found a little in the passenger foot well when I pulled the carpet. I will do the same process for this? Is there a specific paint for this area?
Thanks for any answers.... I will also keep searching..
Aaron
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Hello Aaron, have a look on here, tells you everything you need
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/ChassisBody/Paint
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wow that is a document! Thanks
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If you are mostly interested in a reliable rust preventative, I might suggest POR-15. This paint is expensive and rugged as can be. If you are more interested in originality, the POR is probably not your first choice. Also, PRO is poor in UV light (sunlight). Shouldn't be an issue in the trunk. Best wishes!
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Might want to get a new truck seal. I’m sure the water got there bypassing the seal. Bob
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I have noticed that significant water can get in from the soft-top compartment -- that seal gets worn on both sides (as we all know) when the top is pulled out or put away. This leaves a nice gap for water to flow in - especially when someone washes the car and sprays water horizontally at either top. Some water makes it down the drains in the soft-top, but depending on the angle of the car, a lot can get into the trunk.
Test it if you want - it's enlightening and will make you want a new soft-top compartment seal and you will definitely use the plastic sliders when moving the soft top around.
Zoegrlh,
I'd guess that's the most likely, but did you see this post? Also, someone mentioned natural moisture condensation as a possibility.
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POR-15 is a good option on metal that does not need to look presentable but just project the metal.
Personally I would wire wheel/ grind as much osf the rust off and use an epoxy primer. (2 part) Hopefully you dont have any rust holes. Any rough looking surce fill in with high build primer and sand. keep repeating until the surfce looks perfect then top coat. it will come out looking perfect.
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painted back in 2020
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painted back in 2020
Nice job!!!
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It has been a while since I started on the trunk. Decided to get it all running first. But jumped back in yesterday and got rid of all the rust. I am going to let it dry out for a day or two and then clean it up and paint. I will post when done so I can complete the thread.
But while in the trunk I was playing with the Fuel Expansion Tank. Is that something that can be opened? I tried to pull the top off but did not feel like it would come off without some serious force. I think I read there is a charcoal filter in there? I get a heavy gas smell every once in a while. usually while idling at a light. Wondering if the Fuel Expansion Tank is not working or if that is just the way these cars run. I have always smelled gas with this car and seem to remember it was a kid. I might also be extremely sensitive to the smell of gasoline since my daily drivers cars have all been electric for 15 years.
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There is no filter inside.
It cannot be opened.
It is supposed to kind of collect some vapors or overflow. If there's too much it flows out the FST at the back of the car.
It's an empty canister. I opened one once. A few connectors and that's it. No magic inside.
Ensure all your fittings from the tank are tight, the fuel lines to the fuel expansion tank have integrity. Replace if they don't. That will minimize the gas odor.
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Cool thanks for the info. I will clean it all up and see if that helps with the gas smell.
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If everything is working properly, there should be 0 gas smell, ever. Would be good to get to the bottom of this due to fire risk. Carry an extinguisher just in case.
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You may want to check exactly where the smell is coming from. If it is this expansion tank, then the lines connected to it may have lose connections, the connectors may be half-broken off the expansion tank or one of the lines, particularly the one going down under the trunk floor may be clogged.
At the end of the one that goes out below the tank floor there should be this rubber conical thing, hanging there not far from the muffler. If this conical thing is missing, the system does not work - some suction is created there to suck out the vapors. You would then need to buy the rubber thing and attach it to the line with a small clamp.
Lots of posts about it.
There should be no gas smell around the car. If it is there, there is a leak that needs to be traced and fixed.
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You may want to check exactly where the smell is coming from.
There should be no gas smell around the car. If it is there, there is a leak that needs to be traced and fixed.
At the rear of the car, there are so many places that could cause a smell of fuel, and they all need to be checked.
Fuel gauge mounting
Fuel filler cap
Ventilation connections
Fuel pump connection to tank
Fuel pump IN connections
Fuel pump OUT connections
Fuel line from pump out to hard line that goes forward.
Lot of small connections, some rubber, some metal, and some combinations. Some with gasket...
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Yikes! Ok I will put one in the car.
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I agree with you Cees there should be 0 gas smell maybe you should look at changing the flexible hoses that are between your tank and the rigid tube and between the rigid tube and the canister see in attachment
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Failed sender gasket can also result in smell in the trunk. The leak is seen when you remove the sender cover.
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Ok so worked on the trunk a little yesterday. Ran the car for a little while and did some "Smell Tests". I did not smell any gas anywhere. So I think I am ok. I think I am just very sensitive to the exhaust smell being in a convertible and not driving gas cars for so long. I am going to take it out on PCH today and see if I smell anything different at Speed.
But also just to help complete some of my posts... here is a pic of the trunk. It has 1 light coat of Flat Black Rust-Oleum on it. I am going to let it sit and then sand some spots a little smoother and then put another coat of paint. Probably Rust-Oleum again and then maybe try and source some of the dark grey that Mercedes uses... But I won't be rushing on that. Glad to just have all the rust GONE!. Have a few little minor surface spots in then engine compartment that I need to attack and then she should be Rust Free...