Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: Pinder on March 14, 2023, 03:26:04
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Another item off the todo list. I finally got around to replacing the trailer arm round doughnuts. It was a little difficult to get the trailing arms to lign up but I managed to do it by some 2x4 wedges I put in place in the wheel wells. I let down the tire pressure on the rear wheels put the wedges in place and re inflate the tire which helps in positioning the axle .
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I presume you put them in the correct way up?
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Hi,
I heard of some people doing it not the correct way.
...WRe
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Well I have them the wrong way with the flat part down. I’ve seen descriptions about it not going on with the flat part up. Is there any reason for the rim?
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Also Is it possible to replace the rear bushings on the trail arms that connect to the axle while the trail arms are still attached?
Regards
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Well I have them the wrong way with the flat part down. I’ve seen descriptions about it not going on with the flat part up. Is there any reason for the rim?
Since you are using OEM parts the face on your donut pointing down should have a label “unten”.
The lip that is pointing up, is supposed to seal against the stud, preventing moisture and “crap” to accumulate and create corrosion.
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i have it with the lip facing up so its definitely wrong :-[. Ill be fixing that at some point.
Not the first time ive had to do things twice.
Regards
Pinder
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But
The diagram posted here (cross section) to be shows the lip facing up to the body and the flat part facing down and if that is correct then that is how I have it. The Haynes manual also show this.
Not sure if it makes much difference but Id like to have it the 'correct way' whichever that is.
Regards
Pinder
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Looking at your picture, these faces looking up, should be facing down if that makes sense.
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Yes Thanks Dirk. Ill be correcting these soon along with replacing the bushings from trail arm to axle which have not been delivered yet. Item is back on my todo list.
Regards
Pinder
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Got the rear rubber bushings this morning and the 36mm socket that is needed to open those 4 nuts. I have bent back the safety tab and was able to loosen the first nut which is a good sign. I plan to remove one arm at a time, paint it up and apply the dotology insert bushings and back on to the car.
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... and apply the dotology insert bushings and back on to the car.
Please elaborate! What historical detail are you recreating?
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I notice on each trail arm a yellow paint mark on side of arm about middle point and a yellow paint mark on the end of the trail arm where the doughnut bush fits.
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Thanks! I'll look on my car. This stuff is interesting.
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I’ll post pictures of the arms if it helps to document this. Stay tuned.
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Here it is . Yellow paint mark just below the spring . This is on both arms
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If you search "dotology", (where did that name come from?), you'll find lots written, including this PDF put together by Pawell
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?action=dlattach;ts=1578012032;topic=26132.0;attach=242963
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I assume "dot" from all the factory production line paint marks at inspect points.
"ology" because, you know, science.
It doesn't surprise me that this Group has documented the dots! Great job, contributors.
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thats a great reference (the pdf). well done.
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I have the arm removed and the rubber lower spring shim needs replacement. I am going to order two but want to know if left and right are the same.
Does anyone know?
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I use some contact adhesive on the lower spring rubber to hold it down to the trailing arm. If not then they usually work their way out of place!
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I notice on each trail arm a yellow paint mark on side of arm about middle point and a yellow paint mark on the end of the trail arm where the doughnut bush fits.
Where did you buy the paint for your dotology? I assume colors are red, yellow, light green and blue? Are your paints matching to the original colors?
Thanks!
Tony
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Ive only bought one paint from Home depot in the spray can. its yellow. close enough. But mostly i just put some masking tape of the marks and paint around it.
Regards
Pinder
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I will use some contact adhesive. It will help keep it in place as I put the spring back. Thanks for the tip Joe.
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I have the arm removed and the rubber lower spring shim needs replacement. I am going to order two but want to know if left and right are the same.
Does anyone know?
According to the (early 230) parts book they are both the same: 110 325 01 85.
And fyi the upper rubber shims come in three thicknesses 18, 24 or 30mm.
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Thanks Dave that’s good Information.
I appreciate the advice everyone has given on my journey to renew the bushings on the rear end.
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So an update. I managed to install the rear bushings. The old ones didn’t look too bad on the drivers side (yet to do the ones in passenger side) taken me all weekend to remove the trailing arm and replace the bushings, paint and installs. The hardest part was the front doughnut installed the correct way . What a pain in the rear to do that. Alignment is key and 2 jacks. I used my trick with cutting some 2x4 wedges to beat in place just in front of the rear tyre and rear wheel well . It helps shift the axel backwards so the control arm aligns properly. I read others have used tie straps etc to pull the axel back but I am on a tight budget and no access to tie straps . Also installing the snap ring requires compressing the rear bushings so you can install the snap ring. I did this by getting a 5 and 1/2 inch long bolt and nut with a thick metal flat metal plate and two small sockets to compress so that I could install the snap ring. It worked well and the nut and bolts was less than 2 dollars.
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Is one identified as "standard" or are owners expected to experiment?
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Is one identified as "standard" or are owners expected to experiment?
I think the different versions of the top spring rubbers compensated for slight variations in compressed spring length so that standard ride height could be achieved ex-factory. The spring dotology may indicate which rubbers should be used, although 50 years later that may no longer be relevant.
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Does anyone know what the torque setting should be on the 36 mm bolts that connect the control arm to the axel?
Regards
Pinder
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Finally got all the trail arm bushings installed and arms back on the car. painted and cleaned up nicely.
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what helped to press the dougnut bushings in is to align the arms as best as you can and i used two jacks with one pressing the doughnut in place and while it holds there quickly put the big nut on along with the diamond shaped bracket and tighten up then fit the 3 small nuts on.
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The colors I observed on the springs are
Red, yellow, blue, grey, light green. No idea what they actually mean.
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Does anyone know what the torque setting should be on the 36 mm bolts that connect the control arm to the axel?
Regards
Pinder
looks like it's probably 20 mkp? = 196 N m or 145 ft lb. "FT"
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Thanks. That's pretty tight!
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What kind of paint did you use. I can’t seem to find any that won’t scratch or chip easily.
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For the black parts I use rustolem satin black. Light coats easily found at home depot or lowes . I find it has pretty good rust protection. But if you really want to go all out 2 part epoxy works well on bare metal . From Eastwood. Sticks really well. I don’t know about chipping though.
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Yes, I was using the rustoleum enamel paint. But it still has nothing on the original paint.
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Thats right I came to the same conclusion. Not sure what type of paint the original is but it is resistant to chemicals like gasoline. the enamel paint is not. the Epoxy and 2 part Acrylic paint holds up well to gasoline but is more work to apply. I have tried the 2 Part AU paint from eastwood that comes in a rattle can. that is pretty good stuff but short shelf life one you mix the 2 parts together but it has the advantages of a rattle can with better durability.
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I find the Extreme Chassis Black from Eastwood works well enough and isn't a two part, so shelf life isn't an issue. Not as tough as the two part, but easier to use. It takes several days to dry which I feel is a hallmark of a more durable paint. Not cheap and has to be shipped in.