Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: rwmastel on November 02, 2022, 15:44:26
-
I'm putting together a checklist for performing a mechanical restoration on my Italian 1966 230SL.
Current state: Drove the car at least 2,000 miles per year from 2000 - 2009. Car had a valve failure of some sort (not yet diagnosed) in 2009 and was parked. Don't judge! ;)
Goal: Have a Pagoda that will reliably (as much as reasonably possible!) get me to Pagoda and other car events up to a few hundred miles away. I'm in Ohio, so I probably would not have driven the 230SL to Pagoda Fest San Diego, but I would like to drive it to Pagoda Fest Chicago if this gets done that quickly. It probably wont. :-\
Let me know what you might add to the list! I've tried to break it down by area/system. I'm probably inconsistent with how I word things and there are some entries that are questions to myself, but you get the idea. Anyway, I look forward hearing the group's feedback!
- Engine
○ Send Longblock to Metric Motors
§ Get list of what they will replace by default and what they replace as needed
§ Make sure everything else is covered below
§ How to build a crate?
§ How to perform shipping to/from Metric?
- Engine Related Systems
○ Ignition and Electrical System
§ Battery
§ Starter
§ Alternator
§ Distributor
§ Spark plugs and wires
§ Wiring Harness
§ Fuses
§ Exterior, Interior Lights
○ Fuel System
§ Fuel injection pump (Pacific Fuel Injection)
§ Fuel injectors (Pacific Fuel Injection)
§ Cold start valve (Pacific Fuel Injection)
§ Fuel tank
§ Primary fuel pump
§ In-Trunk fuel vapor canister and vent lines
§ Warm Running Device
§ Thermo Time Switch
§ Barometric Compensator
○ Cooling System
§ Water Pump
§ Radiator
§ Thermostat
§ Fan clutch
§ Hoses
○ Exhaust System
§ Check header
§ Get remainder of pipes and muffler for stainless steel parts already owned
§ Rubber hangers
- Transmission
○ Send for rebuild?
- Drive Shaft
○ Send for balancing?
○ New flex disk
○ New pinion seal
○ New center support bearing
- Differential
○ New fluid
○ Check vent
○ Check gear play
- Rear Axles
○ New axle bearings
- Instruments
○ New speedo and tach cables
○ Send out instruments for rebuild??
○ Fix or replace turn signal stalk (doesn't return after signaling)
- Lights
○ LED headlights, taillights, turn signals
- Heater system
○ Get to heater box and clean/fix (foam deteriorated)
○ Get out fan for proactive replace/refurbish
○ Clean and lubricate all heater/vent controls and parts
- Brakes, Parking Brake
○ Replace front calipers (corrosion in caliper cylinders) and pads and rubber hoses
○ Refurbish rear drums
○ Refurbish or replace master cylinder
○ Examine parking brake
- Steering
○ Check tie rod ends
○ Check for slop and leaks in steering gear box
○ Check steering column-to-gearbox bushings
- Suspension
○ Replace shock absorbers
○ Replace spring pads
○ Replace bushings, control arms, links, etc front and rear as necessary
- Wheels/Tires
○ New black wall tires
- Exterior/Body
○ Soft top material replacement and new frame seals
○ Hard top seals, clean dust from headliner
○ Ensure window alignment for both tops
○ Remove as much trim & lights as possible and give it a good paint cleaning and wax
- Interior
○ Replace seat covers with better ones (eliminate 'sling' feeling with two piece covers!)
○ Replace under dash panels
○ Install a cup holder system
○ Get a period correct Becker Grand Prix and add in a jack or bluetooth
-
Somewhere in there I would include: Go visit Joe Alexander in Blacklick and buy him a nice steak dinner...
Good luck Rodd!
-
You will need great enthusiasm to deal with any short comings and set backs and $40,000 to $50,000 for unexpected cost over runs. I just spent a small fortune on my 1961 220Sb front suspension rebuild. I was disillusioned by the cost... I have a very understanding wife when it comes to working on my cars.
-
Somewhere in there I would include: Go visit Joe Alexander in Blacklick and buy him a nice steak dinner...
Well, that goes without saying!
You will need great enthusiasm to deal with any short comings and set backs and $40,000 to $50,000 for unexpected cost over runs. I just spent a small fortune on my 1961 220Sb front suspension rebuild. I was disillusioned by the cost... I have a very understanding wife when it comes to working on my cars.
I do have a budget, and I'm sure budgetary restrictions will determine that some work be delayed for a different year. Getting a good understanding of what systems need what work is going to determine a lot. Some things need replaced, some rebuilt, some cleaned up, and some need nothing. Unfortunately, getting that information will probably happen more during the work rather than before starting, which makes financial planning really difficult.
-
Get your tires as the very last thing as you don't want them to code out on you as you are waiting to finish the process. Motor mounts, sub frame mounts and transmission mount should be added (I may have missed them)
Couple other items:
if at all indoubt and if practical, take car to a specialist to put car on a rack to ensure the body is straight - helps everything if you start with a straight car
a thorough body inspection looking for rust (especially under the undercoating) is a good process to follow and fix it when engine out - may need to send to a specialist welder / body man
Looks like fun - I have a similar list for my latest truck but I'm doing it all myself (gotta justify my well stocked garage and my existence to my wife)
-
Motor mounts, sub frame mounts and transmission mount should be added.
Yes, thanks! I should have a whole section for "rubber" to take into account mounts, seals, etc.
if at all in doubt and if practical, take car to a specialist to put car on a rack to ensure the body is straight - helps everything if you start with a straight car
a thorough body inspection looking for rust (especially under the undercoating) is a good process to follow and fix it when engine out - may need to send to a specialist welder / body man
I have no budget for body work, rust repair, paint, chrome, glass, etc. It's not in a bad state at this time. Things will get examined closer with engine out, but if something serious is found then some serious decisions will need to be made.
The car is unrestored other than a repaint by some previous owner, probably just after being imported from Italy. I still have a number of factory paint marks where production line inspections were made. Also still have selling dealership sticker in hard top rear window. ;D
-
I may have missed these too:
1. Complete rubber kit. Use OEM.
2. Replace firewall pad.
3. Condition of Visors.
4. FSVT (surely you remember that...)
5. Linkage (adjust and replace ball sockets?)
-
- Complete rubber kit for what, exactly? I can assume you mean door seals, window seals, trunk seal. But, that's an assumption.
- Yes, I need to add Firewall Pad.
- Oh!! I need to add the grommets for where everything passes through the firewall! I recall years ago someone doing this and stating that it not only keeps water out, but noise as well.
- Speaking of firewall, the hoses that drain the heater box and their little round drain protectors.
- Yes, I probably need visors.
- Yes, I remember the FSVT and I'm including it under "Fuel System, trunk mounted venting".
- Linkage balls/sockets will be checked for wear and replaced if necessary.
Thanks for the help, James!
-
Yes, door seals, trunk, etc. Some aftermarket rubber is a waste of money...
Might add: check inner door panels (cards?) and and check the window regulators condition
PS this is fun! and a little less depressing since it's not my list that keeps getting longer :)
-
It seems you forgot the cockpit heater / radiator
If you clean up the engine radiator, make sure that the system is completly checked / cleaned by not forgetting the cockpit heating system, because that's the same network / coolant inside
Due to this long list and the cost of all you want to do, unless you have an unlimited budget, I would priorise everything close to mechanical items
Anything from aesthetic items will not help you to (better) drive the car
That's my way of doing more or less the same job than you on my pagoda
-
i think i saw it somewhere in the other threads but of course the engine / subframe mounts, much easier to replace with the motor out.
also
service steering box (manual)
replace coupling between steering box and steering column. (make sure to correctly align)
idler arm bushing
tie rods?
new rubber grommets
when i did something similar almost 20 years ago i took advantage of the empty engine bay, cleaned it, stripped it and painted it with a single stage white (correct color code)
-
You have a good list by now except, I would check ride height for possible spring fatigue. I replaced mine on a 1970 280 SE sedan and it made a big difference.
Brad
-
My vote is to remove and check the wipermechanism....
Mark
-
My vote is to remove and check the wipermechanism....
. . . or at least lube the wiper arm spindles. They can dry up and then bind up over time. Lubing them reduces strain on the wiper motor and the connecting arms hidden away behind the dash and improves wiper speed and performance. There is a great and not terribly expensive tool for this:
https://www.authenticclassics.com/Greasing-Tool-Windshield-Wiper-Spindle-280sl-p/auth-008822.htm
-
The horizontal part of the mechanism is buried deep under the dash .
this can be seperated into 2 parts (by removing a retaining clip located on the shafts just under the actual wiperarm)
one part holds the housing/bearing ,
the other part holds the actual axlesshafts witch are chromed but over the years get rusted , you might want to check these , as it is a one time opportunity while having the dash apart .
Can not remember what seals are used.
Some adjusting can be done at the motorarm , but the actual stoppingpoint is determined by a switch inside of the wipermotor.
hope this helps
mark