Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: Berggreen on January 24, 2022, 15:31:12
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Dear All
Maybe this is a stupid question, but I have without luck searched around both the in the manual, forum and the BBB for a procedure how to remove and take out and replace the barrel bushings in the main throttle linkage cross rod right end. See attached drawing, I found in the forum, where the rod is nr. 30, barrel bushing is nr. 41 and the bushing is fixed into the bracket nr. 40.
I can see that there is some lock rings involved, but they seem to have already been taken out, but the bushing does not come out.
Also, I have to confess that I have never removed the main throttle linkage rod before, so the best procedure to remove it would also be very welcome. ;)
So before I start improvising myself, then I would just like to hear, if someone can help me out with some good tips or a link to a procedure how to do it in the correct way. :)
Thanks,
Christian
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Christian, the brass bushing will actually pop out of the aluminum holder while still attached to the rod. Just unhook the linkages off the main rod and jerk or tap the rod and the entire assembly with bushing will pop out. After the assembly is removed, take the c-clip off to remove the bushing.
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Christian, the brass bushing will actually pop out of the aluminum holder while still attached to the rod. Just unhook the linkages off the main rod and jerk or tap the rod and the entire assembly with bushing will pop out. After the assembly is removed, take the c-clip off to remove the bushing.
Thanks Joe, Great advice! :D
I managed after some grinding of the collar at the end of the rod to get the bushing off. Otherwise it would be stuck on the rod unable to pass the collar. But I got it off and a new one slides right on! :)
How about the other bushing on the rod? How do I get the one off? I guess need to remove the arm at the other end of the rod? But it looks like it is fixed with a pin hammered in, and I guess removing it will compromise the angle it is mounted at?
I made a small video of the play the bushing and rod has now. Is it worth replacing?
https://share.icloud.com/photos/062leRog5U704PJ1e5HM6U1_g
Cheers and thanx a lot for your help! :D
Christian
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Hi Christian i have done that job some months ago and i have removed the pin without compromise the angle , there is one unique location.
BTW i had the same play as your video and no play at all after fitting the new bush ;)
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Hi Christian i have done that job some months ago and i have removed the pin without compromise the angle , there is one unique location.
BTW i had the same play as your video and no play at all after fitting the new bush ;)
Great, thanks! How did you get the pin out?
Does the rod and arm have some kind of notch, so that the arm can only be mounted in one position?
Cheers,
Christian
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There is a bore that goes through the rod, you can miss it only by 180 degree. Take a picture before disassembly.
You just hammer out the pin. Best to have a pin or punch similar diameter as the bore. This pin is available new at Mercedes or in good internet store. It is a spring type pin, 4mm if i remember correctly.
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There is a bore that goes through the rod, you can miss it only by 180 degree. Take a picture before disassembly.
You just hammer out the pin. Best to have a pin or punch similar diameter as the bore. This pin is available new at Mercedes or in good internet store. It is a spring type pin, 4mm if i remember correctly.
Great, thanks Pawel. Then I guess even I cannot mess it up! ;D
By the way, I did some research, and it seems there are three part numbers for the main rod:
A1270701123
A1290700023
A1300700223
Looking at the 230SL part numbers, it lists the first one, but also that it was replaced by the second on the list. Thus, I assume they are then interchangeable for the 230SL. For the 250SL, it states only the second one. For the 280SL, it lists both the second and the third, but not as replacements. So can we assume that they are all three identical, just with three different part numbers? Or are they indeed different?
Cheers,
Christian
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If you ever have both of the linkage arms off the rod, do not mix them up. They are identical parts but drilled differently and must go back in the same location.
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bush out :
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bush out :
Thanks....but damn, do I really need to press it out? I had not anticipated this. :/
How did you get it on again and to line up with the hole for the pin? Did you develop a fixture to press on the arm, and how did you hold on to the rod without damaging the surface of it?
And thanks Joe, good point about removing both arms, though I have no plans in that direction. ;)
Cheers,
Christian
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Christian, what you see on the picture is a bit of an overkill. You can tap it out as Joe wrote, I did mine with a vice and a socket.
It will go back with vice and socket as well. My support bracket had a small crack, so I was afraid of pressing it in, I put the bushing in the freezer for 5 minutes and blew hot air from the hot air gun on the bracket before pressing.
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Pawel is right the press is.....Too much ! but it is easy to work with ! ;)
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By the way, I did some research, and it seems there are three part numbers for the main rod:
A1270701123
A1290700023
A1300700223
Looking at the 230SL part numbers, it lists the first one, but also that it was replaced by the second on the list. Thus, I assume they are then interchangeable for the 230SL. For the 250SL, it states only the second one. For the 280SL, it lists both the second and the third, but not as replacements. So can we assume that they are all three identical, just with three different part numbers? Or are they indeed different?
Yes, if I were buying shaft for me, I would risk that they would fit.
Please note that the nuts A 1279900151 (2 nuts holding the shaft bracket to ignition leads bracket on driver's side) are special nuts - self centering to the bracket.
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Warming the lever before attempting removal will also help make it easier.