Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: yves on July 13, 2021, 09:38:41
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As i found some play on the right end of the control shaft i decided to replace the bushes . The bushes went in a complete kit with all new ball sockets , and two rubbers , one for the firewall ( the accelerator lever go through 73 on the photo) and the other one ( a round block 74 on the photo) in the engine bay under the admission pipes .
Now i scratch my head about fitting those parts .... ???
1° for the rubber on the firewall is the better access from the engine bay ? after dismounting the rod where the kick down switch is fitted ?
2° for the rubber block under the admission pipes is the acces is by dismanling the heat shield ?
3° Before taking out the control shaft for new bushes , i thought replace before the 4 rods with their new ball sockets and then taking them for the second time all apart and taking the control shaft out to replace the two bushes...
4° Does the pin at the end of the control shaft go in a groove on the shaft or must i mark the location before dismantling the shaft ?
Sorry for may be some odd question ... In reality i am quite scared about modifing all the adjustments... !
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Following photos ...
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I have picked up the discussion on the "linkage thread" to return here .....it's more right .
So my problem is to keep the lenght of the pump rod at 233 mm as the manual say without a rotation of 25 ° of the pump lever
Pawel , i don't see any adjustment orifice on the bracket of the shaft . To minimize the rotation of the rod at the pump i have shortened the rod to 230 mm , but it is still too long ! I am now scared to take as a start point :
233mm for the pump rod with not any rotation of the pump angle where the rod attach, and then adjust the other rods with the shaft in a new position.
Another problem: the pump lever is not vertical and the rod end is not neatly fitted at the pump junction. It works but not in a ideal angle ....( i have not any reference to compare with
I think i'll go in the Joe way:
233mm on the pump rod with no rotation of the lever as a start position , and then adjust the 3 other rods to the new position of the shaft
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I am writing as a weekend mechanic here, so you may not treat me seriously. I just did this procedure as an amateur, that is why I try to help, hopefully not adding confusion.
So you do not have the 10mm opening in the base of the cross-shaft that is fitted on the inlet manifold.
Then the order of the actions is important.
Get the CSS out of the way (I do not think you have it by looking at the pictures, but just to say it).
1. You have the FIP lever on its stop.
2. You get the length of the push rod from FIP lever at stop to cross-shaft to 233mm.
3. Click the joints together.
4. Determine the throttle flap slightly sticking position in the throttle, as per instructions.
5. Make it a stop (zero) position of the throttle lever.
6. Now adjust the push rod from cross-shaft to throttle length to connect cross-shaft and throttle. This is with FIP lever at stop and throttle at stop positions.
Order is important. That should be it.
The 233mm determines lengths of other connections, not vice-versa.
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Thank's Pawel i'll do that in the sequence you say ;)
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After following the linkage tour,
on my 280, in order to achieve fully closed position on the Venturi the connecting linkage had to be adjusted to 305mm (ball centre to ball centre). It was quite a few turns longer than what I started with. Both ends do start equally from the complete stop now. It makes it easier with the air filter pipe disconnected for visual confirmation of the flap position.
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;) i'll followyour advice !
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It's impossible to see the IP lever and throttle lever at the same time. I put my finger on the IP lever to feel any movement and watch to see if the throttle lever opens at the same time - this is the only way you will be able to synchronize the two levers. Adjust the long rod going to the throttle valve to synchronize the opening of the IP and throttle valve. I try to get the ball pin in the very center of the hole for setting up the linkage.
Replacing all of the moving parts like ball pins, throttle linkage caps, and cross shaft bushings should be your first move. Throttle response and performance are generally enhanced with these improvements.
I don't get too worried about exact measurements because every car is a bit different. The actual function of the linkage system is probably more important anyway.
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To build on what BenzDr has already stated, if you move ANYTHING in the linkage, EVERYTHING in the entire linkage(system (from FIP to air throttle valve) should move as one without any slack.
For example, If you move the air throttle a tiny bit you should see the same movement at the FIP at the exact same time. Also pay close attention to the linkage next to the damper on the manifold. It all had to move as one. Any slop in the system must be addressed by adjustment or replacing worn parts.
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Well..... after replacing some ball pins on the rods, i am trying to replace the rubber bushing ( N°74 red circle right on the pic ) but this one is fitted on a "round rivet" and not on a bolt/ washer/nut .....
The acces is not easy , i have dismantled the throttle shaft on the bulkhead to have some play , took apart the heatshield under the admission pipes and now i see the culprit !
But even with one or 2 big screwdrivers i can't unsettle the rod and the rubber bush ....
Anyone here knows how ?
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To build on what BenzDr has already stated, if you move ANYTHING in the linkage, EVERYTHING in the entire linkage(system (from FIP to air throttle valve) should move as one without any slack.
For example, If you move the air throttle a tiny bit you should see the same movement at the FIP at the exact same time. Also, pay close attention to the linkage next to the damper on the manifold. It all had to move as one. Any slop in the system must be addressed by adjustment or replacing worn parts.
Move your throttle linkage at the cross shaft only to simulate normal opening from the gas pedal; I move it on the IP end. Adjust your linkage rod going to the throttle valve until both the IP and throttle valve open at exactly the same time; after you do the linkage tour.
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Today , job done for replacing all rubbers bush, bulkhead rubber for the throttle pedal lever, cleaning , bead blasting shaft , nuts .... well after dismantling the heat shield for acces , pedal lever disconnected all rods are cleaned, lubricated . Now i have no play between pedal lever and the ends of the rods.
Tomorow i'll adjust as Dan and others say...... i have now an exhaustive view of the throttle linkage :D