Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: BartSt on June 18, 2021, 10:27:00
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Hope you can help.
Be safe,
Bart
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Look for it in the cooling system of M127 for instance.
A 127 200 15 19, called pipe elbow. Holds also the Thermo Time Switch in early engines.
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Hi,
do you mean the heating connection with thermo time switch and temperature sensor?
...WRe
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Looks like you have a broken Thermo Time Switch (TTS) connection.
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This piece with white plastic remains.
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Hi,
do you mean the heating connection with thermo time switch and temperature sensor?
...WRe
If you meant the broken piece, it is the Thermo Time Switch. It is on the same drawing on the parts list, no. 352, PN for M127 A 001 545 05 24,
A 000 545 70 24, A 001 545 15 24, A 001 545 68 24, A 001 545 92 24 depending on engine numbers.
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Hi,
there are new TTS available from Bosch no. F026T03100 - 12V-35°C-3W-8sec -M14x1,5, digital for ca. 100€. Afaik the original (mechanical) came from VDO.
...WRe
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All,
I'm amazed by the knowledge in your heads ...
Thanks and I hope I can contribute (a bit) in the future as well.
Best,
Bart
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Can you connect the Bosch to the 2 wires we have today?
Bart
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Yes, different terminals though. Part numbers and connections in attachment. There are also Mercedes part numbers for these terminals, but I cannot find this post (mine!). I am too old for this...
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Call me cheap, but when I was investigating a cold start issue (right after I purchased the car, my first job on it), one of the TTS terminals broke when I tried to remove it, just like yours (the screw was stuck, and when I applied more force to get it to turn in its path, the terminal broke off).
At first I was a bit down (first thing I did was to damage the car…), and worried I might have a lot of difficulty finding a suitable replacement. I started to investigate the issue and found out about modern replacements from Bosch (what you see in the picture above).
Then as I was looking at the old part closely to make sense of the markings on it, I noticed that the terminal is in fact glued in place, and makes contact with the inside of the TTS through a very thin piece of (probably) brass, sort of S-shaped, and that it might be possible to restore the original TTS’s function (if not the esthetics) by re-gluing it in place. It worked perfectly. I checked the connection (continuity) before (and after) gluing, it is excellent. As I used very strong epoxy, it isn’t as pretty as it was before, but it works just fine.
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It is a very important point you are posting about - those original TTSs are $$$$ and if there is any chance to fix them, it is worth trying. Sadly usually the malfunction is about internals that stop working...
BTW: I do not mean to be rude or sarcastic - nothing of this sort, I just thought you might want to consider re-thinking your clamp policy...
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Of course, it has to work internally, you are absolutely correct.
I checked it out in hot and cold water with a meter, and then in the car with a light bulb to see how long it lights up when cranking, it works fine. I could never make sense of all the markings on it, but it works as it should, that’s what counts after all.
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Hi,
here you can find some insides of the original TTS and an attempt to repair it.
https://w113.eu/geschlossen/Reparaturen/funktion_vom_startventil_ueberpruefen.htm
...WRe