Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: kampala on July 06, 2020, 22:16:10
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Vehicle:
- 250sl - Manuel, power steering, no AC
History:
- Car was running excellent for last 1000 miles or so. Was driven few times a week in those 1000 miles in the city and highway at 70mph.
Suddenly:
- While driving on highway at 70-75mph for about an hour, the car just did not feel right, lack of power and felt like not all cylinders were equal.
- Nursed the car home by continually keeping high revs.
Checked:
- spark going to all cylinders
- Fuel going to all injectors - cracked open lines at injectors.
- Car Starts but runs really rough.
- Split Linkage - Can apply tons of air and car still continues to rev higher !!!
- isolated Cold Start Valve - disconnected fuel line and plugged it. - no change in extreme rich condition.
- pulled all plugs - all were extremely fuel fouled. Checked compression while I was there - okay.
- Reinstalled cleaned plugs
- Car started easily and ran a little rough - split linkage now allows me rev the car over 3000 RPMS with just adding AIR.
- WRD - stops sucking air when fully warmed up (removed filter and can feel sucking stop with finger and plastic)
- Fuel Injection Pump - this one has two solenoids - disconnected electrical wires from both solenoids.
- Car started easily ran a little rough - split linkage still allows me to rev the car over 3000 RPMS with just adding Air.
Help:
- I can only assume that the Fuel Injection Pump is suddenly dumping tons of fuel. I don't know how this can happen, can only assume that starting solenoid is stuck? Not sure if that is possible with wire disconnected. Would appreciate any advice on how to approach this.
- (obviously I will not be messing with the shims and such since this is a sudden change)
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The starting solenoid is only activated during starting process (cranking). Since you state the problem started while driving after an hour I wouldn't think it would be a stuck starter solenoid.
I think a failed BC leans the pump out. Double check this.
You covered all the other stuff. I look forward to what the pros think.
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Any chance your barometric compensator vibrated loose and unscrewed a tad? Benz Dr. had this happen a few years back ..
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=17808.msg123916#msg123916
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Any chance your barometric compensator vibrated loose and unscrewed a tad? Benz Dr. had this happen a few years back ..
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=17808.msg123916#msg123916
Sure did. Came back home on a tilt and load and had it fixed in less than an hour. BC will come loose if not tightened down properly. It won't ever come loose unless you had it out to begin with so if you never touched it, that won't be your problem.
I had the IP on my car fail. It went super-rich and fueled the engine down in about 20 miles of driving. It was a total rebuild of the pump after that. I also had the engine on my combine do the same thing. A different pump, I know, but any FIP can fail rich. Not common but I've seen it up close and expensive.
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Well - all THREE of you are CORRECT !!!
After reading your Barometric Compensator getting loose note, I just had to go out and check it. I could not believe it - It was several turns loose!
The car started up and seems to run properly. A quick split linkage shows that it's no longer flooded. Will do a new timing, linkage adjust etc this week.
Amazing - that Tuna Can was right there in front of me and I never checked it.
So Very grateful,
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Yup. That'll do it alright. BC is very sensitive and a 1/4 turn can sometimes work wonders. Several turns can work miracles. :) :) :)
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Well - all THREE of you are CORRECT !!!
After reading your Barometric Compensator getting loose note, I just had to go out and check it. I could not believe it - It was several turns loose!
The car started up and seems to run properly. A quick split linkage shows that it's no longer flooded. Will do a new timing, linkage adjust etc this week.
Amazing - that Tuna Can was right there in front of me and I never checked it.
So Very grateful,
You got away with it lucky! Happy to hear it!
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Sometimes it's little things. As I was reading the initial post, to my mind came one of my experiences where I had removed the injection linkage rod that crosses over the camshaft cover to adjust the valves, and although I put it all back, I had forgotten to properly snug down one of the brackets that holds that rod. Even though it was only a little bit of play in the linkages as a result, the engine ran very poorly. That was not your issue, but something a bit similar - small issue with big consequence. Such a relief when you can fix seemingly major things in a relatively simple way.
I had similar problems with my Bronco II recently, where I had neglected to re-attach a very small vacuum line to the intake manifold, and with my son's 300ZX, where two ignition wires seemed properly plugged in, but as I had manipulated the distributor cap with the wires attached to check for TDC, the two wires had just backed out a bit, causing loss of spark and terrible running. It took me a while to track down each of these culprits and I felt silly afterwards. But better this than a blown headgasket or a timing belt that skipped one or more teeth, as had also crossed my mind as possible causes. Then last year, my Pagoda started just cutting out inexplicably during drives - turned out to be a connector of an ignition wire (to the coil) that I had not crimped on tight enough. It seemed fine from the outside, but it wasn't.
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Very glad it was simple! Don't feel so smart, but hey if it happened to the Benz Dr. it can happen to me.
Adjusted everything, and took it for a 20 mile shake-out.