Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: merrill on June 23, 2019, 11:47:44
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hello
i got the wedge pin out last night now on to the swing arm axle pivot rod.
from my research it seems the guidance is to bang it out using a similar size rod as a draft.
I have also read that these can get bent so i do want to proceed with caution.
thanks in advance
matt
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Gernold from SL tech recommended getting a bolt with the thread of then end plug and make it longer, thread it in the hole and beat the shaft out.
back to the store i go
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Insert a 1/2" extension, then hook another to it and drive it out. The shoulder of the extension will rest on the rim of the tube (pin), while the long end of the extension inserts in the tube. Using a soft mallet will prevent damage to the extension. Otherwise use a junk extension. These days, I also made a tool that threads into the end.
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well pivot rod out, thank you Joe.
I ended up using a 1/2" extension with a 3/8" adapter in the end i was going to hit.
i figured if i am going to damage something might as well be an inexpensive item
anyway, after setting everything up and tapping the my small sledge hammer i wasn't getting anywhere.
so i broke out the impact hammer, set the air pressure to low and while firmly holding the hammer to the 3/8" adapter i let it run.
after about 20 seconds the rod began to move and it slid right out.
the rear bushing is stuck to the rod (photo) i hope that isn't going to be an issue when i re install the rod.
also, i noticed a notch on the rod , what in the world is that for?
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.../...also, i noticed a notch on the rod , what in the world is that for?
Well now Matt... You have initiated a full thread in our Forum on removal of the wedge bolt (tapered pin). That notch is where it goes, it locks the rod ;)
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Hans,
of course! ha ha. :P
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When is comes to reassembly I found a cheap guide tool for the pivot pin was a length of 1/2" PVC conduit with the flare joint at one end. Pretty much a perfect fit, the flare helps guide on reassembly, and it will not scratch anything. (To use it to pound out the pin, I put a long 1/2 bolt plus washer in the non-flare end to pound it out.)
[ Conduit details as requested : 1/2" SCH40 RIGID PVC CONDUIT - notional 1/2# ID - exact dimensions shaft: 0.6" ID / 0.84" OD, flared end: 0.84" ID / 1.07" OD ]
I also found that a common 24mm motorbike clutch 4 prong socket (about $10 on ebay) fits just right to remove the pinion nut, if you going to change the pinion seal.
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Clunker
thank for the install tip, i will try it.
also, good tip on the pinion socket. I had already purchased one from Pelican parts for $50....