Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: Benz Dr. on February 28, 2019, 18:16:01
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I need to weld up some corrosion on a cylinder head and I'm wondering what sort of filler rod we should use. My welder says 4145 but he's not sure. Any thoughts on this?
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Well Dan, how about giving the Justice Brothers a call...AKA J B Weld! ;D
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Uh, not on your life. Has to be real aluminum welded into those craters.
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I was only pulling your leg Dan.
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That is pretty specific info and not sure who would know that other than an experienced welder. Maybe contact a welding supply shop? Welding aluminum is harder than most and a lot depends on the type of welder and the gas you are using. Good luck!
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I can't weld like that. My guy just down the road can weld wood to glass - he can weld paper. Yeah, he really is that good. Just need to know what to use.
I'll figure it out somehow.
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I was only pulling your leg Dan.
Oh, I'm a bit slow on the uptake today. Not sure how that got by me - have to sharpen up a bit and get with the program.
NAAAA!!!!
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......My guy just down the road can weld wood to glass - he can weld paper. Yeah, he really is that good........
Sounds like my welder. He can weld the crack of dawn to the break of day!
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He can weld the crack of dawn to the break of day!
Doesn't she mind?
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Welding aluminum is harder than most and a lot depends on the type of welder and the gas you are using. Good luck!
I agree it is not as easy as steel, but welding aluminum has certain requirements that do not vary or depend on the type of welder and the gas.
It used to be that you could weld aluminum with a TIG welder only. That is not the case anymore. Even MIG welders can be used to weld aluminum.
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Yes, many options these days. With aluminum, cleanliness is critical. For years I had a old school welder person who would sandblast the area clean, pre heat the head and weld it with a torch! Amazing, the welds always came out well and worked fine. These days TIG is preferred and MIG welders (a little less precise than TIG) can also work. Naturally the welder person doing the job must have the experience to know what gas, settings and electrodes or rods to use. Choose a method which will generate the least amount of warpage to the head. Pre-heating and clamping the head down flat may help. In any case, the head will need to be milled flat and smooth after the welding is complete since some warpage and build-up will occur.
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Dan, I agree with everything Joe mentioned. Clamping the head down on a flat surface is very important as is the right pre-heat temperature. I had quite a few cast iron castings welded (by expert welders) to procedures provided by specialists in my time of business. One other item of importance is to know the excact material composition (if not known take a sample shaving and have it analyzed). It is important for the selection of the weld rod.
Key is, find the right welder, show him what needs to be done and leave it to him, if he has done it before, he will know what to do.
Some reference here ——> https://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-ca/support/welding-how-to/Pages/welding-cast-iron-detail.aspx
Dieter
PS. Sorry I shredded all those special procedures once I retired, no longer look after issues in the field of rotating equipment,nsold the house etc. Some issues I solved using a pencil grinder and Devcon filler material, perhaps that might work in your case to avoid warping during welding.
Google “Devcon Metal Filier” and you can find it on eBay
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Dan, I wish I were home. There is a guy in Cleveland who welds all manner of engines and I would stop in and see him for you. All he does is repair engine blocks and heads and the occasional swing axle housing. His company is called Guarantee Auto Weld. You might try giving him a call and just asking him what he would use. If anyone ever needs a block or head welded to a level that is nearly undetectable (300SL block?) this is the guy. His number is (216) 431-1214