Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: clunker on September 28, 2018, 23:04:28
-
(1969 280SL 4-speed)
I am looking to replace the rigid oil lines (1301800127 and 1141800627) that run from the oil pump to the oil cooler flexible hoses. The connection from the hose to the rigid line on the lower line has seized, and even with copious WD40 it is not budging.
As advised, I removed the lines from the car for easier access (and leverage!) I had simply intended to replace the oil cooler hoses, but of course it is always something.
I cannot seem to find replacements for these rigid lines at the usual places - is there a cross reference part number that may work, or any other suggestions?
Thanks.
-
Why are you changing the oil cooler lines. If you are going to change the hoses too then I would use some heat on the gland nut.
-
OK Dan, I will admit to thinking worst case! : The current hoses are not leaking but definitely showing age. So if I cannot get new rigid lines, I could get away with just putting them (hose + rigid line) back. If I go at the joint with heat and clumsily ruin the hose/joint, I am sunk if I not have a way to get a new rigid line... That said, you are right I should at least make a modest attempt with heat - let's see. Still wonder if those rigid line are NLA.
-
To loosen these kind of connections in the past, I've used a cocktail of 50-50 each of Automatic Transmission Fluid & Acetone (full strength) well shaken, then applied/soaked to the joint for a day or 2 and then used heat. It's always worked. WD40 is a waste of time.
Check Pelican Parts, the oil lines seem to be in stock:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search_2016.cgi?command=DWsearch&description=1301800127 (https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search_2016.cgi?command=DWsearch&description=1301800127)
https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search_2016.cgi?command=DWsearch&description=1141800627 (https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search_2016.cgi?command=DWsearch&description=1141800627)
Best,
Mike
-
Clunker, I was looking at availability of the parts numbers you mentioned in your first post at Mercedes last night. It showed that A 114 180 06 27 was available (price ca $50 net in my geography), then, unfortunately, when I pasted the other part number a communique was shown that due to system technical error they could not show availability at that moment - and availability mark for all positions I had on screen went into "undefined". But it shows the price of A130 180 01 27 at ca $180 net (this one a bit expensive for some reason). Prices do not seem to be way off those in Pelican.
The moment the system starts working, I will let you know if they are available through Mercedes. You can certainly check the US Classic Center.
It is not so obvious that these are NLA in Mercedes.
-
Thank you all.
I will attempt to disconnect the joint with heat/ATF - mainly out of pride. I did just now manage to order both lines through my local MB dealer - part numbers 130-187-06-82 upper and 130-187-05-82 lower. I will put on the new lines given the existing lower is starting to look a bit mangled.
I think the alternate part numbers are 114-1809-07-27 upper and 114-180-06-27 lower.
(I was a bit casual with NLA term - I guess I meant "not easily available" - turns out they are!)
-
Good you got them.
I wonder what would we see if you compare the prices you pay in the US vs. Here in Europe. I mean list prices, net of VAT.
I had A 114 180 06 27 for $50 net and A130 180 01 27 for ca $180 net of VAT.
-
130-187-06-82 upper $110, and 130-187-05-82 lower $77 - excluding sales tax. That likely M-B full retail, on-line is maybe 15% cheaper (+shipping of course).
-
Ok, you took different parts numbers, but to check:
A130-187-06-82 is ca $106 no VAT. If you add VAT (buying as a private person), would be 23% on top.
A130-187-05-82 is ca $67 no VAT.
Quite similar, actually...
-
I might have them. I need to check. I will be home tomorrow. If the ends of your oil cooler hoses have either aluminum or yellow sleeved on them they are reusable ends. If you grab the sleeve and turn it the hose should screw off with the sleeve laving just the barb fitting and the nut. With the hose off you can heat it up.
-
As a follow up, the two part numbers that I last listed (130187*0682 and *0582) are incorrect for the 280SL M130.983 ... those parts include the flexible hose section permanently attached to the rigid oil line: it is for a different M130 variant, and I had mistakenly taken an incorrect cross-reference off the internet (duh).
The correct part numbers for the rigid oil lines from filter to oil cooler hose are 1301800127 upper and 1141800627 lower (as I originally noted) - they were confirmed by my helpful local M-B dealer parts department with the Classic Center. They are available and have arrived, now waiting for me to collect from the dealer.
I wanted to be sure no-one follows my mistaken post on the part numbers!
-
Thanks for the info.
The correct part numbers correspond with those from Pelican Parts which I quoted in my post #3 above.
Out of interest how did the prices from MB Classic compare with the prices quoted by Pelican, $216- & $65.25?
Best,
Mike
-
Rather than use heat or chemicals I use a dremel and cut two slices into the gland nut along the axis of the pipe and opposite each other.
Do it carefully so that you just begin to see the threads exposed and you will then have weaken the nut sufficiently for it to be spread with a lever and removed.
Obviously you need to be sure that you’ve got the replacement part to hand.
It saves a lot of time which of course, since I am a commercial operation, is very important.
This technique is especially useful on aluminium oil coolers where any attempt to unscrew the gland nut will nearly always result in damaged threads to the oil cooler.
-
Good idea. Filing that one away in dark corner of my brain.
-
Mike - $200 and $67 from M-B dealer, so same zip code as Pelican.
New lines fit correctly, just had to remove the oil filter canister to access/remove the rear injector pump mount in order to tuck the upper line behind that IP mount.
Given that I had to destroy the old lines to get them off, am assuming I ok to put anti-seize on the new hose and rigid line connections?
--Charles