Pagoda SL Group

W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: Mike H on August 06, 2018, 10:32:56

Title: Centering rear axle.....How about this.
Post by: Mike H on August 06, 2018, 10:32:56

I have installed the rear axle in the restoration process, 1964 230 SL., the exhaust is not fitted.
From the literature, the axle is centred using the large hex bolt attaching the carrier at the axle.
This hex bolt has a circular depression at its centre.
If  a steel 1 metre  rule is used to measure the distance from the centre of the hex  bolt, to the centre of the two trailing arm bolts fixed at the chassis, would this not correctly centre the axle ?.
My measurement is an equidistant 522mm.
Ive seen the jig used by members and that shown in the BBB, but doesn't the above give the correct result as well,or am I missing something.
Mike.

Title: Re: Centering rear axle.....How about this.
Post by: A Dalton on August 06, 2018, 14:37:09

 The step bearings are NOT equi-distant from the chassis C/L,  so the answer is NO.

https://www.sl113.org/wiki/DriveShaft/RearAxle

Notice the pivot pins spec is 36mm to the right of the cars Chassis C/L.

This has been calculated into my tools design measurements.

Which are correct.

Title: Re: Centering rear axle.....How about this.
Post by: Mike H on August 07, 2018, 09:03:40

Thanks Arthur. Much appreciated.
Mike.

Title: Re: Centering rear axle.....How about this.
Post by: A Dalton on August 07, 2018, 13:15:07

 You're Welcome.......

Title: Re: Centering rear axle.....How about this.
Post by: swood1 on August 07, 2018, 20:49:30

Hmmm

I'm going to have to make one of these tools.  Would 15mm dia copper piping be okay?

Steven

Title: Re: Centering rear axle.....How about this.
Post by: A Dalton on August 07, 2018, 22:05:38

 Sure.

What you want is the thicker copper so that the jig remains stiff, specially  at the 90 degree angle.
Some guys put a  hypotenuse  strut to hold that angle.

Here in the US, Type  L  is the thicker [ .040] , while type M is only  .028.
So. Type  L is my recommend for tool.  No strut needed.


 I hang mine on two pegs on the wall that the step bearing legs go over...and then I have a mark on the wall for the pointer.
That means I always know if the pointer is accurate or needs tweaking each time I use it.

There are several ways to set the geometry for the 36mm offset spec....[ dropping lines, etc].
.......the tool just makes it easy.