Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Electrical and Instruments => Topic started by: RoyB on June 21, 2018, 14:12:16
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Greetings All
New topic from me based on an ongoing thread. 1963 230SL, SN VIN 11304210000211.
A very early model. The car has typically run pretty well, thought it continues to stumble around 3000 RPM when accelerating.
Last weekend I took out the car on a 95 degree day. No problems overheating, but the car stalled at every stop sign / light.
I would pull up to the stop, and the car idled nicely. As soon as I touched the throttle pedal, the car would stall. It would start immediately and if I kept the RPM over 2000, I could drive away as usual. Some of you may remember a previous thread where I had problems starting the car when cold, and was told that the later models of this car bypassed the Ballast Resistor when stating the car to get full voltage to the distributor and coli. Based on that discussion, I added a Relay that accomplished that, and the car has started easily ever since. I put this in to round out the discussion on the recent issue of stalling.
With all of this said, and along with the attachments, what should I look at next to resolve this sudden issue of stalling at stop lights / signs? Thanks to everyone for this Forum.
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If your car has a 'constant speed solenoid' that is it is an automatic or/and has aircon then I would
start looking around that area.
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Thanks for the reply. I should have added this point earlier.
The car has manual transmission and does not have AC.
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More detail to add here. I started the car this weekend. 82 degrees and sunny. The car, as usual starts right up.
I applied the throttle and the engine rev'ed as expected. Letting the car idle, I periodically applied the throttle and the engine responded as expected. However, as soon as the coolant started coming up to operating temperature, the engine began to stutter.
I applied the throttle and the engine stalled immediately. After re-starting, I repeated the process with the same result - a stalled engine. Is there is relay or fuse that I am not aware of that interacts with the throttle? If this were a fuel delivery problem, the car would start, nor would it run properly at engine speeds above 2500 RPM. The engine does not overheat, nor come close to running warm.
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Roy:
Did you read through this thread? Simiiar symptoms.
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=27386.0 (https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=27386.0)
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The constant speed solenoid will normally keep the idle rpm in gear or neutral fairly constant. When all is good and well-adjusted, the engine will continue to idle with or without the CSS but at a lower rpm. Make sure you engine has good compression, linkage is correct, ignition timing is set, ignition is in tune, and mixture is set. The CSS is just icing on the cake!
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Sounds as if the linkage may be out of adjustment or the IP is lean.
Be sure the throttle plate begins to open at the SAME time the injection pump lever is actuated. If the linkage is not set up correctly, the throttle plate will open first and create a lean condition and then a stall. This is masked during warmup because the IP and WRD are running rich.
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Thank you for the feedback. I had been reviewing the Engine Starting Aid Tour and saw some of these items outlined. I have also been reviewing several of the other related documents. I will check everything and get back to the group when I find something.
Last fall I had 150 plus compression in all cylinders, new points, plugs and condenser (have not installed new Electronic Ignition yet - this will be the third one I will have tried) new thermostat and flushed radiator, new fuel filter and air filter, tested the fuel pressure as well as performing the Linkage Tour.
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IMHO Tyler is onto it: a carbureted engine with a bad accelerator pump will have exactly your problem. The mixture needs to briefly enrich when you accelerate from idle. Jon
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I looked at all of the electrical connections, and found one of the two wires going to the Thermo Time Switch only had a few strands of the wire attached.
I put on new connectors, cleaned the terminals and now the car runs fine. After that I verified the Linkage Adjustment and reset the Idle Air Valve and Throttle Body.
Each time I work on the car, it gets a little better. Thanks again to this Forum and the Technical Manuals and documents. Without them, I would not have been able to resolve these type of issues.