Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items => Topic started by: Intex on April 17, 2018, 05:05:48
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10 years ago I restored my 280sl and did a bare metal repaint. After being in storage under a car cover, no direct sunlight, I decided to have it detailed
After polishing and waxing the shinecam backon all the steel painted surfaces, but on both 5e hood and trunk lid, the paint seemed like it had faint spider webbing or crazing
Has anyone experienced this problem on these aluminum areas? The adjoining areas like fenders are perfect
Since I don’t trust that the paint shop put a thick enough clear coat on top of the paint, I am afraid of color sanding it for fear of going thru the clear
Any ideas on why this has happened or what I can do to remedy this?
The paint shop was supposed to use Glasurit paint and clear coat, but do not trust that they did
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i am guessing either the paint or primer used was not elastic enought to allow the alumunum to expand and contract without cracking the finish. Another likely cause it that the primed didn't dry or cure correctly and the paint was floating on a layer of uncured primer.
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Don't think it was uncured primer, as the rest of the car was painted at the exact same time, and it is fine. It must be something with the aluminum. Maybe you are right with the contraction/expansion
Need an idea how to remedy this, as repaint would be VERY difficult to match color and cost $$$
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I think there are paint shops who scan your colour and prepare paint to match it. This stakes care of colour change over time. It usually takes several trials, but is doable.
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I dont know how often this happens, but there are some types of car covers that will craze the paint. Probably there is some chemical used in the cover material, or the felt lining on the inside that affects the paint.
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Don't think it is the car cover, since it is only crazing on the aluminum panels. Maybe the contraction / expansion is greater on the aluminum panels that causes it to crack, or something they did wrong while painting?
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Were the hood and trunk removed when the car was painted? It is possible they were painted at a different time (hours or days) then the rest of the car and some external contaminate affected the primer or paint on those peticular planels only.
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Aluminum is notorious for having paint adhesion issues if not prepared properly. I recall when I did my 230Sl several years ago there were a number of steps required to prepare the aluminum panels that were different from the steel panels. The prewash chemicals were also different. You may want to check what prep was done and what primer and primer surfacers were used prior to the top coats. It comes as a surprise to a lot of body shops not familiar with the 113s just how many aluminum panels are involved in a total respray.