Pagoda SL Group

W113 Pagoda SL Group => Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items => Topic started by: StevenF on April 16, 2018, 18:56:24

Title: Cabin Insulation
Post by: StevenF on April 16, 2018, 18:56:24


What is the best product (not one that breaks the bank) to place under the carpet for heat insulation?
Also, I have the original insulation also--does that go on top of the new stuff or do I discard it?
Regards
Steven

Title: Re: Cabin Insulation
Post by: thelews on April 16, 2018, 21:59:09
I used lead septum and put the felt padding on top that was there, then the rubber mat
Title: Re: Cabin Insulation
Post by: zak on April 17, 2018, 21:57:20
Thelews, may I ask how effective the sound insulation is?
And approx. how much weight did you add?

jz
Title: Re: Cabin Insulation
Post by: 66andBlue on April 17, 2018, 23:02:54
I thought that lead sheets (or similar "mass loaded vinyl") are very good for sound deadening (http://www.soundproofing.org/) but are not very good for thermal insulation because they transfer heat quite well.
For heat insulation a double reflective material will be better: https://www.thermotec.com/products/sound-and-heat-barriers
Title: Re: Cabin Insulation
Post by: thelews on April 17, 2018, 23:38:02
It's a great sound and vibration deadener.  Not sure about heat, but I can't say I've ever had a heat problem emanating from my floors in this car.  All that said, I wouldn't call these cars quiet by modern standards (and my top is usually down).  Very, very smmoooooooth though! 

Not sure on the extra weight, but it's not light stuff.  Do you really notice a huge difference when you have a passenger or a full tank of gas?  It's certainly not that heavy.

Some more pictures attached.  All original.

By the way, the material is just laid in, shaped and cut with a scissors.  No glue or adhesive of any kind.
Title: Re: Cabin Insulation
Post by: Garry on April 18, 2018, 01:35:33
I think Alfred is correct, it needs to have reflective coated surfaces.  Here is an example of what I used in my camper van before installing cupboards etc.  I purchased it from eBay, it is no where near as heavy as the regular sound deadeners available but does the job just as well as you are actually trying to stop the resonating in the panels as well as any heat, or cold for that matter.


Garry
Title: Re: Cabin Insulation
Post by: Jordan on April 18, 2018, 02:04:18
John, where did you source the lead septum and do you recall how much you needed?  So if I understand it correctly, neither the lead septum, nor the carpet were glued down or was the carpet glued to the lead septum?
Title: Re: Cabin Insulation
Post by: 66andBlue on April 18, 2018, 03:34:32
When I restored my 280SL John sent me the photos that he posted.
Because the sound proofing company is close by I opted for the mass-loaded-vinyl since shipping costs for the lead or MLV are prohibitive. You can figure about 1 pound/square foot for 1/8inch thick MLV or lead! Less mass = weight = less noise reduction.
Another nice aspect is that MLV can be cut with a box cutter and and edges can be glued together (using a special vinyl glue used in agriculture) and different forms can be shaped. But just like lead it is not glued down.
After lining the floor boards, the tunnel and the space under the parcel shelf with MLV (or lead) you can actually hear the radio at 60 mph.  ;)
Title: Re: Cabin Insulation
Post by: thelews on April 18, 2018, 11:53:03
I got the lead septum locally at www.blackforestllc.com

It's just laid in with carpet or rubber mat laid on top.  Nothing is glued other than original factory carpet that is glued (like on the tunnel, rear shelf, etc.).  I did not put lead septum in those areas, not pulling up my factory original carpets.
Title: Re: Cabin Insulation
Post by: doitwright on April 18, 2018, 13:41:04
As part of my restoration I chose to go with LizardSkin. They have 2 products. 1st is the ceramic then the sound deadener. Applied 2 coats of each per instructions. They have numerous videos on YouTube. I particularly like the one where they coat 1/2 of a hot plate and put an ice cube on top. I had the inside of my hardtop sprayed also. I cannot report on results just yet since I am still in the reassembly phase.
Title: Re: Cabin Insulation
Post by: Shvegel on April 18, 2018, 13:59:39
66and Blue,
Thanks for posting the link to Thermotec. I have been looking for someething to replace the original foil backed material that was under my carpet and that looks fairly close to the original.  They are only 90 minutes from me so I might take a ride down there.
Title: Re: Cabin Insulation
Post by: StevenF on April 18, 2018, 17:18:44
any thoughts?
Watch the video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkAqdhH0vJc
Title: Re: Cabin Insulation
Post by: Shvegel on April 18, 2018, 23:01:08
That is essentially Dynamat (Do a Google search).  The video is a little missleading when they put a torch under it because it is just a layer of butyl rubber backed with aluminum.  If you put a torch under it it will smoke and melt. I have a box of black Dynamat that I am going to put down first then paint it to match the car and then the aluminized mineral wool sheet.  Most of my original aluminized sheet was destroyed getting it needs all new stuff.  Hate to cover up my pristine floor boards.  Have to take a bunch of pictures before the dynamat goes down.
Title: Re: Cabin Insulation
Post by: 66andBlue on April 19, 2018, 01:11:33
Shvegel,
you don't need to cover your boards completely with Dynamat or similar butyl-covered metal. I have used CLD tiles and MLV as described here:https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products;
If you don't want to use MLV because of the added weight then the CLD tiles + closed cell foam (Melamine or Neoprene) also works quite well.