Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: Kevkeller on March 05, 2018, 00:09:01
-
I took my oil pan off to look at the sump and clean it out. I noticed a piece of tape (looked like one) in the pump inlet. Not big but weird.
I was looking in a Haynes manual and it discusses measuring the clearance from the rotor backlash. I’ve looked through all of my manuals but don’t see a figure. Anyone know?
Also I’d rather not use a gasket sealer on the new pan gasket if I don’t have to to make future removal easier. Is it recommended?
Thanks,
Kevin
-
I did find some numbers. It says .12 - .16 mm backlash.
-
The link is to an inspection of a similar oil pump on a Bentley.
How to measure for wear and backlash etc.
http://vnc.thewpp.ca/stuff/bentley/ep0niks.ctech.ca/vw/eva2/GE01/ch7.2.html
-
Old oil sub pans get abused. Bumps, and dents are the norm. Many have been distorted and often times the sealing surface is not true and flat anymore. Consider replacing the whole sub-pan with a new one for a perfect seal. Surprisingly, most are inexpensive from the right source.
-
Thanks, Dave.
Yes Joe I was pleasantly surprised to see how cheap they are. From the pics they look slightly different in shape. I think I’ll pick one up whether I use it or not right now.
What are your thoughts on sealant for the pan gasket?
Kevin
-
And maybe go for the slightly deeper new gen. oilpan with 0,5 liter more capacity?
-
Yes, you will might see some slight difference in some of the new sub-pans for the M130 engine M129 engine. The latest ribbed version sub-pan is usually the one supplied. If it has the ribbed bottom it is slightly deeper. Oil capacity is increased about one pint. The drain plug itself is smaller with a 13mm hex size. This is actually the latest version oil sub-pan used by the factory on all M130 engines. Engines using these pans were also equipped with oil pumps that had a rubber extension on the oil pump pick-up which reached down deeper for the new deeper sub-pan. This modification is not necessary as long as engine oil level is maintained as usual between the marks. The rubber extension is automatically supplied by the factory on new oil pumps or new M130 factory engines. The later version BBB goes into some more detailed information on this production change.
Using sealer is your option. May be a little added insurance if you are using an older pan. Don't use too much since the excess may squeeze out inside and end up in the oils supply. Use a good proven brand.
-
Thank you for the info.
-
If you order a new oil pan, Dont forget to also order a new drain plug and sealing ring. As Joe mentioned the new pans accept the small drain plug.
-
Good idea. Thank you.
-
Yes, use a new oil pan but the term “sealant” can mean different things.
I NEVER use silicone sealant on these engines but I always use Wellseal on all gaskets except head gaskets. There I don’t use anything at all.
-
Keep in mind that you will need an oil sump that fits to your oil pan. They're not all the same.
-
Keep in mind that you will need an oil sump that fits to your oil pan. They're not all the same.
Just to be sure, we are talking about the stamped sheet metal pan correct? Are there more than one type for the 280sl?
If I do decide to purchase a new oil pump pump can anyone recommend a company?
Thank you,
Kevin
-
I didn't see what model you had so yes, the 280 sub pans fit the same way but they can be different and there there are different oil pans. I believe you can interchange between early and the late ribbed pan.