Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: clunker on October 09, 2017, 21:56:18
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Couple of notes that may be helpful to those trying this anew.
In a response by Chuck Taylor to the post https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=9529 Chuck lists a method for removing the power steering pump in a 280SL whilst leaving the pulley and the bracket attached to the pump. This permits one to remove a stubborn pulley (as I have) on the work bench. This worked worked well for me but I add a couple of clarifications plus an annotated pic -
Chuck's directions were:
"Actually, you can remove the pump and bracket with the pulley still on.
I assume that you have the belt off.
1. Use the adjusting nut to move the pump all the way to the right as you are facing the pulley side. This will allow you to get a hex bit socket on the bolt on the back of the bracket. Unscrew and remove the bolt.
2. Unscrew the nut holding the bracket to the lower crankcase horizontal surface.
3. Unscrew the nut holding the bolt to the back of the crankcase.
4. You will be able to move the pump and bracket, pivoting it on the bolt in Step 3, but the bracket will hit the balancer.
5. Drain fluid from the resevoir and disconnect both hoses.
6. Pivot the pump and bracket counter-clockwise to clear the balancer and remove.
« Last Edit: September 30, 2008, 09:24:05 by ctaylor738 »"
- In step 1 the hex bolt (size H8) is reached through an access hole in the bracket next to the pulley, revealed when pump loosened and moved right. It is also perhaps possible to get limited access to this nut from above with the power steering fluid reservoir removed.
- In step 3 I used a power ratchet to spin off the nut (17mm), as the bolt would spin as well if I used a hand wrench - I could not see any access in bracket to hold that bolt head.
- I found that in order to pivot enough in step 6 to remove the pump, then the upper lower pressure hose angle must be removed (I had simply taken off the flex lower pressure hose itself) in order to clear the distributor. The unit + bracket then comes off easily.
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I just finished replacing a pump on a 280SL with a rebuild from Pelican Parts/C&M Hydraulics. I ran into some issues that may come up for others.
1. The pulley would absolutely not come off in the car. For an unknown reason, on this car, I could not get my long hex bit socket through the bracket and into the inside screw. In this case you need to remove the harmonic balancer and use an Allen wrench on the screw.
2. There are 9 mm four bolts that hold the halves of the pump together. One is longer and fits through a hole in the rear of the bracket and threads into a hole in the front of the pump. The rebuilt pump had the three shorter bolts, but one was occupying the hole used with the longer bolt. I had to relocate it. Best to do this before you put the pump in the bracket!
3. The above bolt that came out car was 10 mm x 65 mm with a 17 mm head. The rebuilt pump would would only accept a 9 mm bolt. The 10 mm bolt would go into the hole, but not thread. Fortunately, I had a 9 x 65 bolt on hand. Checking the EPC, the bolt is 10 x 65- N000931 010110. I looked at a third pump, and the 10 mm bolt would not even go into the hole.
Hmm. I can't explain this and only suggest that you be prepared when changing pumps.
4. Not only would the pulley not come off in the car, but I could not get it off with a fairly large puller on the bench. I took it to a machine shop and their puller broke trying to get it off. They ended up cutting it off with a carbide burr.
Never a dull moment,
CT
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.../... The pulley would absolutely not come off [the pump] in the car. ../...
No, this is so. And no room to manouver tools there due to the radiator etc.
There is a special M-B puller for the task of removing the power steering pump pulley in situ, see attached. Without that it is cumbersome to remove pump and pump bracket. The second picture attached shows using a puller on the bench for removing pulley.
You must avoid leverage on the circumference of the V-belt pulley, it is easily deformed and will wobble (not run true anymore)
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Ugh. Have you priced a replacement pulley yet? Might as well be an original style gas cap.
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Try some heat next time. Plan on replacing the seals and O-rings.
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I ended up using this setup for the final removal step...