Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => General Discussion => Topic started by: bpossel on December 15, 2004, 12:39:36
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This is the first winter with my car....
I have been used to the engine operating around the 180 degree mark, and slightly above during stop and go summer traffic here in Memphis.
The temps in Memphis during the past week have been in the 20's & 30's. Driving my car in stop and go traffic, my car temp is between 100 and 180, hovering just above the white mark in-between 100 and 180. This seems low...?
Is this normal for my current conditions?
What is your car's temp during the winter months?
Regards,
Bob
bpossel
Memphis, TN.
1971 280SL
1997 E320
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Bob,
You should check your thermostat.
I had my 230 out on Sunday. Outside temp was around 40 F.
Engine temp was normal @ 180 F, same as in summer
naj
65 230SL
68 280SL
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Mine stays just above 80C line winter, spring, summer, or fall. I think that translates to about 180F.
James
63 230SL
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I was affraid that my temp is too low....
Which thermo is recommended? There appear to be 3 (71, 79 and 87 degrees)
Thanks,
Bob
bpossel
Memphis, TN.
1971 280SL
1997 E320
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Bob,
I had this exact same problem with my 230SL the first winter I had it. The next spring I back flushed the cooling system and replaced the thermostat. The next winter it stayed nice and warm at the normal operating temp. I don't know which fixed it. Do you have any records of a recent coolant change? I suggest you back flush now. Search forum and Technical Articles (www.sl113.org/articles/default.asp) for info. If that fails, change out the thermostat. I used a 79.
Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both tops
1994 E420
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Hi Rodd,
Because my car didnt come with a lot of maintenance records, I just started doing "everything" right away once I got the car home. Actually I have replaced the coolant about 3 times since this summer, including a back flush. I replaced a lot of the hoses.... the most recent drain of coolant was last month when I removed my injection pump, and re-installed another one from Hans. What I think may have happened is that when the coolant was drained for a few weeks, maybe the thermo froze up? Anyway, have a new one on order and will replace this weekend.
Thanks for the advice!
Bob
bpossel
Memphis, TN.
1971 280SL
1997 E320
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I ahve the same problem. My gauge stays around 165-170 in this weather, roughly 10-15 degrees outside. I have very little heat in the car, usually lukewarm at best !
What 'stat should I put in there, to allow it to get hotter ?
I also have a broken bolt in the 'stat housing.............I may actually leave all this alone and wear a wool jacket :D !! Think I'll soak it in PlusGas for a while !
Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
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Ben,
I think it's important for the engine to run at normal operating temp.
Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both tops
1994 E420
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Here's a post from the Yahoo! site on the subject of cooling by Nathan Keith:
"Before making any modifications check that the temperature gauge is correct with an accurate temperature gun.
Going back to my racing days, we would always add an oil cooler (especially important in the days before synthetic oil), electric fans (they don't create engine drag when not in use), and three row aluminum cross flow radiators (an extra row over stock and aluminum dissipates heat much better than steel or copper), and larger water pump pulleys (water flowing too fast does not cool as well in the radiator, and in racing you are often at high rpm). Anyone who had done any severe towing with the air cooled VW van (mico-bus) knows the value of an oil cooler with a fan.
I found the oil filer mount for the oil cooler on ebay for $5 (how many times do you ever have to change this part?), mounted a trailer towing style automatic transmission oil cooler if front of the radiator and
have had no temperature problems since. You can also buy a thermal switch, i.e. the oil only circulates through the cooler if it gets hot enough.
I did this because my research showed that oil will transmit more heat out of the motor more quickly than water. The big racers use a big oil cooler and a dry sump (requires a dual chamber oil pump) to cool the
oil even further.
Now every coin has two sides. An engine that is running too cool will not be efficient and this is where accurate thermostats are critical. I use a temperature gun to check the temperature that the thermostat
opens. The temperature gun can also be used to check the head and determine if a cylinder is running hot or cold (usually due to a bad cam or timing).
The temperature gun I use:
http://www.professionalequipment.com/xq/ASP/ProductID.287/id.22/subID.177/qx/default.htm
For oil coolers check out http://www.summitracing.com/ and search on "engine oil cooler"
A good radiator shop can fit an aluminum cross flow radiator into the SL."
Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic
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Question???
The dealer is recommending an 87 degree celsius thermo (saying this is standard OEM). Isnt this too hot? Wouldnt this thermo open at 87 and make the cars temp operate around 188 degrees fahrenheit??? I thought that "normal" was around 180 degrees f or 80 degrees c?
Comments?
Bob
bpossel
Memphis, TN.
1971 280SL
1997 E320
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There are 3 temp thermos for 113s.
71,79,87..
The choice is to cover differing ambient conditions.
Winter 87C should be fine ..but I would put the 79 back in for summer ..
Many run the 79 year round in four season zones , but then they complain about the heater output...
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I have a 79C thermostat and it heats fine in the winter. Of course, I do have some high operating temps in the summer if I have to sit still in traffic on a hot day. If I correct that problem, I might not be warm in the winter!
Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both tops
1994 E420
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Last night I installed a new MB 87C thermo. When restarted the car it began to quickly move towards the red. Summary, backed car up onto my driveway, which has a good incline. This allowed the system to "burp". The temp now holds a constant 87C...
For those that have never replaced their thermos, make sure that the "check ball" (small ball bearing) on the thermo is positioned at the highest point in the system. This allows trapped air to escape out the system. In most cases the highest point will be pointed towards the front of the car, by the large upper radiator hose. It seems that it is very easy to get air trapped in the system when replacing the radiator fluid in these cars. The slightest amount of air can cause the thermo not to open and the engine to overheat.
I will remove and install a 79C thermo when summer arrives. I think that the "87C" one would be too hot in the summer...
Merry Christmas!
Bob
bpossel
Memphis, TN.
1971 280SL
1997 E320
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quote:
Originally posted by bpossel
The temp now holds a constant 87C...
Congratulations! We all love simple fixes.
Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both tops
1994 E420