Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: mmizesko on July 06, 2017, 17:16:49
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After having Joe do some front end work replacing Kingpins, and related connecting components, I had a thorough wheel alignment done (almost 2 hours). What a difference. I had a clear Toe-in problem which led me to do the kingpin work, but I didn't realize how much better the car rolls without fighting the toe problem. My primary symptom was my front right tire was wearing quite a bit on the inside of the tread.
So folks, remember to get a good wheel alignment. It is extremely noticeable.
Mike Mizesko
Columbus, OH
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That should make your trip to Virginia a lot more enjoyable!
Happy Motoring!
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Just had all four wheels rebalanced. Makes a huge difference. Car rides like a dream.
Now to clean up the car, Bleche White the Whitewalls, Scrub the soft top, Buff it out for the Arthritis Show next weekend.
Next Stop. Re-do the engine bay next year....
Mike
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Mentioning kingpins - I did as Dan suggested a couple of ago to check the play in my kingpins. I held the wheel at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock while car was lifted Tried to rock it back and forth vertically. I tightened the wheel bearings to eliminate them. I could feel very, very little play almost nonexistent. The car does get lubed, although I'm not 100% sure that all of the zerk fittings are working. Could I assume that the kingpins do not need to be replaced yet? Replacing kingpins is a lot of work for a home garage mechanic if it is not needed. I only got concerned because when I back out of my driveway into the street I hear a small noise in the left front. It is only there if the wheel is turned sharply to the left. Any input would be appreciated. Thank you, Chumps
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I suggest you only turn to the right from now on - you will find your way home eventually. :) :)
I check front ends for king pin and bearing play as you describe. Check for play and if you feel any movement grease the king pin first. If the play goes away, it's the king pin. If it doesn't go away, it's more likely a loose wheel bearing. To check the upper and lower pivots, the lower control arm would need to be lifted to remove any weight bearing load from the front side of the car you're working on. Lift your car on the sub frame to check from king pin and wheel bearing play and under the control arm while looking at pivot wear. Inner pivots are harder to check but they tend not to wear as quickly since there's less suspension movement in that area. Having the fittings take grease should be your main concern at all times.
I replace the upper and lower pivots when I do king pins because most of the time they will be worn out too or seized up. King pins are now only sold in sets so don't be surprised by the price. You can safely do everything with the front of the car on jack stands and you can remove everything except the lower control arms. Leave the front shocks in place - this is your safety net!
It's imperative that you be able to see grease come out of the joints between parts while lubing your front end or something could be plugged or seized. Metric grease fitting are slightly smaller than SAE and any wear on your grease gun nozzle will likely result in a big mess. I keep a separate gun around with a new nozzle so it holds better for this job.
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Dan: Thank you for your reply. I'll do a more thorough inspection this weekend. Chumps
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Be aware that the castor angle is different for with/without PAS.
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Hi Folks,
How is caster adjusted on these? My alignment guy was stumped, and I am out of spec. Very eager to drive the car after restoration but the front end doesn't feel quite right.
Thanks,
Allen