Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: Tom in seattle on April 21, 2017, 03:35:59
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I'm attempting to remove the harmonic balancer to replace the front seal in my 1967 250 SL. I have removed everything in front of it and have removed the the big bolt and 3 large washers. I then put a sturdy bolt head into the end of the crank snout, not covering the two dowels. I then applied a 3 prong gear puller and applied pressure, a lot of pressure and the balancer does not budge. I'm afraid something will explode if I apply more torque. There is no indication of rust or other corrosion. I'm reading abiut the 230s having a weakness in this area. I've considered heating the balancer but realize this could destroy the seal and create more problems if I can't get the balancer off..
How do I get this damn balancer off? What am I doing wrong?
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I use a steering wheel puller - is that what you're using? It should pull off with moderate force so I'm not sure why yours won't move. Maybe someone used Locktight on it which will probably mean that you will need to use some heat on it to release the chemical bond.
I've never ( thankfully ) run into this problem before so I'm not sure what to think.
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I am with Dan on the heat. Since it isn't an area prone to leaking and it will leak along the hub to crank joint it is quite possible that you have some form of sealant in there. most of the anerobic sealants will release if you get them warm. According to the Locktite website a standard Anerobic needs 325 degrees F and a high temp requires 500 degrees F.
I would also rethink your puller as Dan has stated. The 3 jaw puller you are using is pulling on the outer edge of the hub and if you pull hard enough you may distort the hub. I have the factory puller that I know fits a 280 but I am pretty sure will fit a 230 as well. I can send you as well as the crank ring remover and the hub installer. I just did mine last month so I won't need it.
PM me with your address if you are interested.
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Thanks 2 both of you. I can see that a black sealant was used around the seal itself, so maybe some was intentionally or errantly found its way to the two mating surfaces.
Can you describe what the factory puller looks like or send a picture?
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Before you pull any more let me look at it. I have taken it off before to replace the seal. I'm in West Seattle
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This worked for me - -
a grade 5 steel foundation anchor + pipe flange + pipe bushing (all from Home Depot)
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forgot the photos
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Just got back home from the weekend. Nice job!
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Here is a picture in case anyone searches in the future. Hub puller, seal ring puller and hub installer.