Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items => Topic started by: cstinchi on February 10, 2017, 16:42:08
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Hi Folks,
I'm in a process to install the windshield back to the car and was told(by the installer) that I need to remove the dash wood trim in order to do so.
Is that accurate?
Thank you in advance
Caio
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Yes. You will also need to remove the covered trim from the inside of the windshield. Sunvisors and rear view mirror will need to be pulled as well.
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From another post (not written by me):
I believe there may be some posts already on this, but here's a quick summary of how I did it:
1. Use a new and OE MB seal!
2. Takes 2 people to do this job
3. Place the rubber seal around the windshield
4. Use a new aluminum trim surround (if possible) and one that IS NOT Bent! Note: even if order a new one, it may take several reorders to get one that is not bent!
5. While one person holds the windshield (on the floor or bench) gradually install the trim surround into the rubber seal. I had to use silicon spray to assist with this... There is a grove in the rubber seal that holds the rear of the trim surround in place. This is sort of a "lock" grove.
6. Once both sides of the trim surround are installed, lift the windshield onto the car and set the lower end of the windshield in place with the upper end tilted outwards.
7. Install the drivers side wood dash bow (if not already in place)
8. While one person holds the windshield in its outward & tilted position, the second person installs the "pull rope" around the inner lip of the rubber seal. Use the pull rope to assist with pulling the rubber inner lip into the cabin area
9. While gradually pulling the rubber seal into the cabin area, gradually start to let the windshield fall backwards and into position. Gravity will help it to fall into place. The hard part is to MAKE SURE that the aluminum trim surround stays "locked" in its rubber channel. As the windshield falls into place, it pinches the rubber seal together and locks the aluminum trim surround. This is why it is almost impossible to remove the trim without removing the windshield (unless it was not installed correctly to begin with, or the rubber seal is old...)
10. As you allow the windshield to fall into place (gravity assisted), it will sort of "pop" into place....
11. Basically at this point its in and your finished. Lastly, install the small center trim piece on the top portion of the trim surround.
12. In addition to the rubber seal, I also installed some add'l sealer under the rubber seal as added water tight protection. Some say this is not needed... your call..
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Hi Folks... I'm at a similar stage whereby my windshield is scheduled to be reinstalled next week. Can someone shed a bit more light on why the wood trim requires removal. At first glance it doesn't appear that it would be in the way when the windshield is re-installed. Thanks very much... John
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Well, the pull rope may damage the wood, and it is very difficult to get the rubber molding to fall into place with the wood in place. I've seen it done the hard way (with the wood in place), but the results are almost always bad. If the rubber molding does not seat correctly, it will leak water and wood will be ruined, that is,if it survives the installation.
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Ok I see now. I was able to find a video of a windshield install and see how the cord may get in the way. I was unfamiliar with how that worked. Thanks very much for your insight. Looks like a few steps back before a big step forward for me this weekend. Cheers...John
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Hi Folks,
Thank you very much for the info. Yes on Monday I'll remove the wood trim and install the windshield. Keep you guys posted.
Have a good weekend.
Regards
Caio
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I agree with Joe. When I replaced my windshield , I removed the wood.
Don't forget to read:
http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=15683.0\\
Here are the tools I used;
1. philips screwdrivers (regular and a very shallow one)
2. 9mm wrench
3. thin piece of metal (10cm x 10 cm) - can be done without this step
4. 10mm wrench
Here are the steps I used
1. remove glove box (6 screws)
2. remove passenger and drivers pillar molding (2 screws each)
3. remove wood speaker cover (2 screws)
4. remove speaker (2 screws)
5. remove both blue nuts holding right side wood in place (9mm wrench)
6. remove dash part that is underneath and to the left of the steering wheel (3 screws)
7. remove the small metal bracket (2 screws)
8. remove the drivers seat (4 bolts - 10mm) - not necessary but makes life easier
9. reach up and undo the wingnut holding the tachometer in. slide it out
10. undo the three blue nuts holding the left side wood in place (the two leftmost can be reached through the tachometer)
11. gently lift up the wood as far as it can go. It will probably bind against the instrument cluster
12. undo the top left side of the dash (3 screws). The screws are really hard to get at, as they will be under the left side wood, but you can reach them with a very shallow phillips screwdriver. If you do not have a very shallow screwdriver, use a philips nut driver and a pair of vicegrips. The third one is under the leather / MBtex on the left vertical side of the left side top dash pad.
13. remove the two screws holding the left side of the instrument cluster dash pad. This should enable you to move it just enough to remove the left side wood.
14. remove the left side wood.
15. to install reverse the procedures above.
I hope this helps anybody else, who like me, has to do this job.
Cheers,
Remove wood Trim:
Right-side long piece. Remove the glove box.
Shine some light in the empty space to find the blue plastic hex nuts under the trim. Remove as many as you can find and reach. There are 3? Hex nuts for each of the long wood pieces. You might need to remove the padding on the A-pillar.
To remove the left-side piece:
This one is a bit harder to do. You must remove the tachometer and speedometer to access the nuts. Start by removing the insulation panel below the steering wheel. Now use a small flashlight, push the driver's seat far back, and wedge your head against the brake pedal, facing up. Very uncomfortable! Some suggest removing the steering wheel. I did not do that.
Look for the round thumbscrew that holds the tachometer to the dash. Remember where and how everything is put together. Remove the thumbscrew. Remove the cable from the tach. Remove the electrical wire. Set the tach aside.
DO NOT REMOVE THE CENTER GAUGES! A thin metal tube is attached to the back of the center cluster. This tube carries a column of oil from the engine to the oil pressure gauge. If the tube is loosened or removed, oil will spill to the floor of the car. Leave the tube attached.
Work your way around the gauges to remove the speedometer which also has a thumbscrew, cable, and electrical wire.
Now you should have access to the blue plastic nuts holding the left trim piece. Remove them. Cover the top of the dash to prevent scratches then carefully remove the wood.
Re-installation of the Dash Trim
Reinstall is the reverse. Fitting the left side wood trim back against the windshield without scratching the dash top can require a bit of careful pushing and coaxing. Be sure to have the dash top covered as the wood trim might cut the dash top while being put back.
After the trim is back in, put back the blue holders and the gauge connections, then admire the nice looking trim.
I suggest cutting off an eighth of an inch or so from the bolts glued to the wood pieces, once the wood has been removed. They are longer than necessary, and this will help when you replace the wood. A Dremel works well for this.
I recently ordered new nuts from the Classic Center, and they sent metal nuts instead of the blue plastic ones. The metal ones were 8 bucks apiece.
Don't try to use regular lock nuts, because they are too tight. One can twist the bolt out of the wood when trying to tighten one of these (damhikt).
Lots of guys and gals have torn their dash on the driver's side when removing or replacing the wood there because of the length of the bolts. If your windshield is out, removing and replacing the wood is probably simple. Otherwise, I suggest you put a piece of metal, line a flexible putty knife, on the dash so you can slide the bolts on that without fear of contacting the dash material.
Joe
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Joe,
Thank you very much for your time writing this email. Now my Mom can do it...
I'll post my comments after I finished this week.
Regards,
Caio
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Have low windscreen leak driver side. How does not remove the chrome strip without damaging it? Once this is released, the seal channel must be cleaned as well as the seal of all debris and rust. When resealing, has anyone used cosmoline weathershed plus a silicone sealant. Main thing how to remove chrome strip without damage.
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Have low windscreen leak driver side. How does not remove the chrome strip without damaging it? Once this is released, the seal channel must be cleaned as well as the seal of all debris and rust. When resealing, has anyone used cosmoline weathershed plus a silicone sealant. Main thing how to remove chrome strip without damage.
To do this properly the windshield must come out. Then the aluminum trim can easily be removed from the rubber seal for cleaning/inspection.
To check for rust and treat the potentially affected areas there is no way around removing the WS.
I use the window sealer from Würth, it easyto work with and is said to maintain its
Flexibility and sealing properties for many years.
Hans
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Thank you your advice
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Hi Guys,
I believe the only way to remove the window without damage to the chrome trim, is to cut it out. Do not try to pull the trim out, unless you have a new one in your hands. Take care when cutting out the window as it could fall through the frame, into the car.
Regards
Chris
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Hi Guys,
I believe the only way to remove the window without damage to the chrome trim, is to cut it out. Do not try to pull the trim out, unless you have a new one in your hands. Take care when cutting out the window as it could fall through the frame, into the car.
Regards
Chris
Hi,
That is definitely not always the case. Usually if the rubber is not too hardened, the window comes out without to much struggle. And once the windshield is out the aluminium-trim can be removed. Assuming the rubber has not turned to a hard as stone substance.
There's a different story when it comes to the hardtop windows. I've always cut those out, to avoid breakage.
Hans
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Hans is correct.
I was assuming that the only reason to remove the window was for a respray or to replace the seal and off course to replace the window itself.
However I would automatically replace the seal, unless it was only a few months old.
And 'yes' again, there is a good chance that the hard top windows had never been removed and the rubbers are rock hard, ugly and useless.
However, even with new rubbers, it is no mean feat to fit the hard top windows, especially those little quarter windows.
Regards
Chris