Pagoda SL Group

W113 Pagoda SL Group => Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items => Topic started by: Peter on January 17, 2017, 21:13:58

Title: Color table
Post by: Peter on January 17, 2017, 21:13:58
I’m restoring my 280 SL (1969) and I’m not sure about the “official” colors. There is an overview on the website but not complete. Is someone able to complete below table?

item                                                                                                   color code
battery frame below, tray floor and battery upper frame    
radiators   
airfilterbox   
coolingsystem reservoir    
engine compartment                                                               car color but: gloss / satin  / matt?
Grille   
Wheel wells                                                                             car color but: gloss / satin  / matt?
Body underside   
automatic transmission shield/holder   
Rocker panels/Sills                                                                  169 flat black
front and rear suspension   
petrol tank   
bottom inside the car    
bottom behind seats   
Trunk inside                                                                           164 dark grey
Trunk lid, inside                                                                     164 dark grey
firewall inside (compartment)                                                car color but: gloss / satin  / matt?
convertible cap space   
Inside of bumpers                                                                 158 white grey
relay housings (in motor compartiment)   
Title: Re: Color table
Post by: Jonny B on January 18, 2017, 17:13:24
Battery frame, tray and upper - satin finish black (may also be termed semi-gloss)
radiator - satin black
Air filter box - satin black
Cooling system reservoir - satin black
Engine Compartment - body color, same as car but not buffed out (have been some recent posts on this)
Grille - Satin black
Wheel wells - Body color , my 280 SL is fairly glossy, but may not have been buffed out
Automatic transmission shield - body color, and there should be the body number stamped on it
Rocker panels - very dark grey (use the search function, a lot has been typed about on this subject) Same as the trunk
Front and Rear suspension - satin black
Petrol tank - black, but not sure if satin or matte
Bottom inside the car, body color
bottom behind the seats - body color
firewall - body color, not buffed out
convertible cap space, black satin
Relays in my car are natural finish aluminum, but I think some were in black (early cars?)
Title: Re: Color table
Post by: mbzse on January 18, 2017, 18:36:25
I agree with Jonny B:s list.
The Mercedes factory used a satin black paint finish, and I guess they specified the same for their suppliers.
This satin black is composed 60% shiny and 40% matte black (at least that rate is what I have found to be a good match)

The fuel tank (petrol tank) is also satin black

The front and rear suspension were sprayed as a unit after assembly (but before being fitted to the chassis); so that screws and other hardware were covered in satin black
Title: Re: Color table
Post by: Peter on January 18, 2017, 20:38:16
Hi Gents,

Thanks for good information, very helpful.
Title: Re: Color table
Post by: mbzse on January 22, 2017, 11:49:16
Jonny B wrote:
Quote
Relays in my car are natural finish aluminum, but I think some were in black (early cars?)

I attach a picture showing an original relay; casing is indeed black paint.
Car is produced Summer of 1964 (230 SL)
/Hans S
Title: Re: Color table
Post by: Peter on February 09, 2017, 20:25:52
Dear Gents,

A question about Satin Black.
Is this the same as 164? Which is also 7164 Deep dark grey (Tiefdunkelgrau Halbglaezend)?

Thanks for help, kind regards, Peter
Title: Re: Color table
Post by: 49er on February 09, 2017, 20:51:11
Wheel wells - Body color , my 280 SL is fairly glossy, but may not have been buffed out
Finish on mine is fairly glossy over the plasticized undercoated areas of the wheel wells but pretty dull/flat on the non coated areas particularly on the front wheel wheels.

John
Title: Re: Color table
Post by: Peter on February 09, 2017, 21:03:30
Reading again, I got from “Pagodentreff.de” that it is different from 164/7164, but mixing RAL Deep black 90% + Ocher 5% + 5% Pure-White and 60% shiny/40% matte to get satin it should be very near by the original color of the satin black mentioned by Jonny.
Title: Re: Color table
Post by: ohoraherecaptain on February 23, 2017, 12:46:08
Hi Guys. I'm also restoring my 280 which was originally Grey - is now Cream and I plan to change it to a burgundy. However, the only colour charts I've see are on line and via a screen, which is not ideal!  See attached.
I'm in the UK, so wondering where I should go to see real samples?
Any suggestions?
John.
Title: Re: Color table
Post by: bogeyman on February 23, 2017, 17:35:45
I use this website. It contains some pics in addition to swatches.

http://www.classicway.de
Title: Re: Color table
Post by: Peter on February 23, 2017, 19:39:37
Hi John,

I will ask my car painter to spay large samples on metal (30x30 cm) of the colors I’m interested in.
Small samples on paper will not show the real color.

Success, Peter
Title: Re: Color table
Post by: Shvegel on March 04, 2017, 14:30:54
Other than the wheelwells and rocker panels the underside of the car should be off white underseal or stone guard. Color varies by year slightly.  If you are going that far keep in mind that as you are pulling it apart look for signs of paint markings used to mark various fasteners etc as to if they have been checked for Torque etc.  this is what we refer to as "Dotology".  One big area is the springs which are marked as to rate or stiffness to match the weight of options on your car and the setting of the rear lower spring mounts.  I used a really good ultraviolet stable black epoxy primer on all my satin parts. The ultraviolet stable part is important or it will lighten and chaulk in the sun. Unfortunately it is from a small manufacturer here in the US so you would be better sourcing in the EU.  No need to cover it with a topcoat and it is very durable.

I find old assembly line photos helpful for figuring out what to paint and not paint on things like brakes and bearing dust caps that have been changed over the years.