Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items => Topic started by: johndillman on June 19, 2015, 04:50:55
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My 70 280sl has a strange little panel bolted in the rear of the left rear wheel well. I will try to attach a pic. Is this factory or bubba? Now it is mostly rust .. . . I could make it if I had to, but if original would anyone know if it is available, and, I know I am asking a lot here, a part number?
No hurry, as I appear to have days of cutting spot welds and chiseling ahead as trunk floors and quarters and tail panels go away . ..
Many thanks.
john
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John,
That panel is factory for later US version cars with the larger square fuel vapor expansion tank mounted on the driver side of the trunk.
Its there to protect the black plastic fuel vapor line where it exits the trunk through the trunkfloor right behind this panel. The vapor line
Continues along fuel and brake lines to be vented into the front of the engine block.
Hans
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Thank you Hans!
I could not find such a beast, and K&K professed no knowledge of it, so I got off my backside and used the old brake and new shear and whipped one up. Looks pretty decent, if I say so myself. If I missed anything I would appreciate any thoughts, as one edge was pretty sparse . . .
Thanks,
jpd
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Sounds like you are in for hours of fun. I worked in a body shop years ago and our preferred style of spot weld drill was these because they didn't tear up the metal you were trying to save like the mini hole saw ones did.
http://www.shopwurthusa.com/wurthstorefront/Abrasives-Cutting-Drilling/Drilling/Drill-Bits/Spot-Weld/HSS-Spot-Weld-Drill-Bit-8MM/p/07108
The problem was the invariable drill through or missed welds where you try to pull the pieces apart with a pliers and end up bending stuff up.
Whenever my metal man would get bogged down on my car it was because he was faced with a bunch of spot welds that needed to be cut apart so I would book a flight up and spend a couple days cleaning up areas for him to mount the new panels. His method was to use a standard 4" angle grinder with a abrasive wheel on it(not a cut off wheel) and lightly go over the area to find the welds. The he would use the edge of the wheel to grind the area where the welds were away. I found his method to be far quicker and did far less damage to the parts you were trying to save. anywhere the sparks from grinding hit glass they will stick so cover all your glass and don't grind near your wife's car.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_280027-67702-G12SR3_0__?k_clickID=2ea3e080-799d-23c9-c38b-00000692866b&store_code=1023&productId=1240491&selectedLocalStoreBeanArray=%5Bcom.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%405afc5afc%5D&storeNumber=1023&kpid=1240491&kpid=1240491&cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-ToolsAndHardware-_-HandheldCuttingAndGrinding-_-1240491%3AHitachi&CAWELAID=&CAWELAID=1024204107
Welding was performed using a Lencospot spot welder (eBay purchase) single sided spot welder which made 2 welds at once with the 2 panels well clamped together. We also used a Lenco tong style attachment where space allowed.
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Thanks for your most thoughtful comments.
After collecting various styles of spotweld cutters, I think I do like those the best. For bigger holes I like the Blair ones, but they are almost too destructive for the thin stuff. After many mistakes, I settled on that flap disc trick, too, sometimes even using some other paint to make the contrast better. Where I couldn't get to them at all, I used the 4.5" grinder to just grind the metal away (with a cutting disc) and then chisel a little from there. I still have to cut the outer wheelhouses out and my language will be just peachy by the time I am finished . . .
I really NEED a Lenco. I used one in my youth and that would be the ticket now. Been prowling ebay for a few months and might have to get a new one if something doesn't show up soon.
Thanks again for your thoughts!
John
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Anytime.
here is a couple for the garage wall when you get frustrated and feel like it is never ending.
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Awesome! Just awesome!
John
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Almost positive this is a Lenco:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-On-Spot-Welder-YA22300-Collision-Repair-Welding-N2336-/161771443773?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25aa54563d
Google "Lencospot Mk2". Notice the louver placement etc. Also google "Lenco Unispot" for pictures of the included tongs. Missing the dual spot cables which are $300 but it does have the unispot tongs which are $500 by themselves.
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I had actually seen that on ebay, and Craigslist when it was on there before. It is in Houston, which would be perfect for me, but the absence of those dual spot cables kills it . . . . These are, apparently, made by Lenco for Snap on. Good spotting there (no pun intended) .. . .
BUT, with shopping around, I can get a new Lenco for $999 delivered . . .which makes a used one have to be a little on the cheap side. Now, if I could get the dual spot cables cheaply this might do it . . .
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Here is a pic of what i meant about a spot welding clamp to attach the fenders
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That is really nice. Is that a production clamp or did you make it?