Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: Ferrolanoman on June 14, 2015, 20:46:25
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Gentlemen,
It's time for me to flush and replace the coolant in my 1970 280SL. In it now is a regular 50% Prestone/water mix. Since it's a forever car for me, I've been considerering refilling the system with Evans brand waterless coolant for automobiles, which is an FAA mandated coolant used on several aircraft. This product is designed to last indefinitely, never changed for the life of the engine and since there's no water involved the internals (as well as the water pump) are not subject to corrosion or the dreaded galvanic interaction between the aluminum head and the iron block.
I would very much like to hear from those of you who've had experience with this product before proceeding further. Any and all responses will be much appreciated.
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So, my advice is to follow the mainstream advice and use what MB recommend, which is a coolant for aluminium heads.
I read a little about waterless coolant - there's a ton of stuff on the web - and views differ on its utility. Some good, some bad. I'd say play it safe and stick with a change every 2 years. It's hard to see how a compound (like waterless coolant) could somehow adapt to deal with the chemical changes caused by repeated heating/cooling and interaction with iron and aluminium without somehow having a less than positive effect on the elements with which it interacts. Like your engine.
I don't buy the hype.
But if you're planning to turn your car into a plane, please post a pic!
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I don't buy the hype either. Do a little research and you'll find that Evans "Waterless" coolant is a mixture of EG and PG, total about 98%, and then some additives. Well, I'm not entirely sure what the difference is between this and undiluted [with water] coolant products. They don't answer that in their FAQ's.
Water is a better HTF (heat transfer fluid) than EG or PG. EG is better than PG. But, EG is toxic; PG is considered environmentally friendly. Running pure glycol (either one) raises the boiling point, at the expense of cooling efficiency. These are chemical facts.
As for "proprietary additives" in Evans, what manufacturer of any coolant doesn't offer the same? All have anti-corrosive additives, pH balancers, etc. and all claim proprietary.
James gives good sound advice. Use a coolant designed for multi-metal (iron/steel/brass/copper/aluminum).
These cars and parts are so darn expensive you don't need to be spending $50 a gallon on coolant. Surely there are other more needy items screaming for the money in your wallet!
(note: there are several different Evans products. One, NPG+ is mostly all PG. Others are a blend.)
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OK, OK, I give in. You're probably right. So, next question, use the green 2-year or the orange extended (5 yrs?) Prestone with a 50% distilled water mix? Please understand that I want to best protect my car (especially the aluminum head).
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OK, OK, I give in. You're probably right. So, next question, use the green 2-year or the orange extended (5 yrs?) Prestone with a 50% distilled water mix? Please understand that I want to best protect my car (especially the aluminum head).
FWIW I take Joe Alexander's advice and stick with MB coolant. To that end I contacted Tom Hanson of the Classic Center, and he recommended: Q-1-03-0004 coolant. This carries a $24.95/gallon MSRP but of course you can get a discount on it if you are a member of a certain club, either from the CC or from a dealer. Note that it is full strength, and thus you buy de-ionized water to dilute it, most likely to 50/50. That about halves the cost of course, as deionized water is pretty cheap and commonly available. So it is a little premium in price, but not by much...
If you are going to use this, the recommended flush is 000-989-10-25 acid flush. That I have not priced yet.
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Zerex G-05 is the same as the M-B coolant.
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We used the Evans coolant in a 16v VW road race car that was having cooling issues. It did seem to help cooling but be careful during the burping initial heat up. It is very hard to get all the old coolant/water out of a system that has been in service and it comes out with great vigor as it warms up. We also used it in a motorcycle rebuild project and it has worked very well there.
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Zerex G-05 is the same as the M-B coolant.
Not exactly, EJ. The MB Coolant so referenced is G-48, not G-05, and has a different composition and different part number. The G05 stuff is Q1030002. Of course the difference is all in the minute additives.
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Different packaging, same product. If one wishes to buy M-B that becomess a personal choice but the Zerex provides the same protection.
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In either case (MB or Zerex), to help with compatibility, I would stay with the green stuff. Going to orange can cause bad things (gelling, etc.) to happen.
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Flush the system and get "the green stuff" out. Unless you don't mind the damage it can do to the aluminum. Once the system is properly flushed, there is not enough residual chemical of any sort to cause a compatibility problem, much less gel formation. The best bet is MB coolant or Z05 and distilled or de-ionized water and change it every two years whether the car is driven or not.
Mike, perhaps you can explain, in lay terms, what the difference is between the 0002 and 0004 and what significant consequences of long term use are.