Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: twistedtree on April 27, 2015, 17:50:56
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I seem to have a problem with the gear shift linkage on my car. There probably are actually multiple problems here, but let's focus first on the linkage. I'm finding that if I adjust the shift linkage rod so that reverse and neutral work well, then the rod is too short for the 3 and 2 positions. And if I adjust the rod so the shift gate aligns properly for 2 and 3, then it's too long for the N and R positions down at the other end.
One thing I've noticed is that the car appears to have the shift gate from a later car (see photo), when my car is an early '64 230. So my first questions is whether the shift positions are actually different between the early and later shift gates, and could that be the problem? Before I bought this car is was supposedly converted to a manual trans as a contingency on a sale, but that fell through and it was restored back to an auto. But I have already found multiple things set up incorrectly on the transmission and related components, so an incorrect shift gate and/or other linkages would not surprise me.
Now on to the second issue. As I test drive this car more (I'm just running up and down a short drive), it appears to be starting off in 3rd gear, not second. It's a real dog getting off the line, and since discovered this gear select issue. If I manually select a lower gear to takes off just great. The selector was clearly off and I frankly couldn't really tell which of 2, 3, or 4 I was in, so that brought me to adjusting the linkage. But I'm wondering if the gear selector adjustment being off could cause the car to want to start off in 3rd rather than 2nd?
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I always thought that the newer gates had lighting, but were otherwise identical. So it sounds to me like the levers on the linkage or trans may be mis-matched and need to move the lever farther than the gate will allow.
If the transmission is in 4 or 3, it should shift into 2 at a stop by itself. If it doesn't it may need a modulator/pressure adjustment, or have internal problems.
Can you operate the trans normally without the gate?
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I fussed with the adjustment a little more this AM and have it so I can reliably shift into each position. Although the bushings are mostly intact, they are probably imparting more play than would otherwise be there. So it's not perfect, but good enough for me to control it. I went for a slightly longer spin and I can get it to shift into all 4 speeds so they are all there. The kick down to 1st, and start in 1st when in the "2" position all works. The upshifts are roughly at the right speeds, though I haven't done a precise check. It's perhaps a bit slow to down sift, but for now I think makes for a sufficiently drivable car to go work out other problems.
It was a while ago, but I previously went through the 3 position solenoid set up, not just checking for rod movement, but actually measuring the pressures in each position to be sure they were correct. The pressures were 10 @ idle, 40 psi in the middle position (off idle, but no kickdown), and 60 psi in kickdown. I think those are all good pressures. So I'm pretty sure the basic gear box is good. I also checked the modulator vacuum line up at the manifold to see if it was wet with ATF, but it's not. Dry as a bone. That doesn't necessarily mean the modulator is working correctly, but at least it's not leaking ATF through to the engine.
At this point I think I can drive it enough to get the mixture back where it's supposed to be using my AFR meter. Then I'll start driving the car progressively harder to see what I can break. I already surfaced a cracked cooling hose early today. More to come, I'm sure.
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By the way, what appears to me as sluggish takeoff in 2nd gear may just be me getting used to the behavior of the fluid coupling. I honestly haven't driven these cars much, so have little to nothing to compare it to.
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Did you check the transmission mount? It may be sagging and having an impact on the shift positions. While you are rummaging around with the linkage give it a look to make sure it is okay.
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All 3 engine mounts are new, as are the front frame mounts. I think my next step will be replace the plastic bushings, but it's workable for now so I'm on to other bigger issues. Eventually this one will bubble back to the top.
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The trouble is, it may bubble back up when the bushings dissolve and the rod falls out when a) you shift to P and then can't get to a drive gear, or b) you think you shifted to P but the trans stayed in a drive gear and then you can't start the car.
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Good point. I'll get them ordered up sooner rather than later.