Pagoda SL Group

W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: Bacchus802 on March 14, 2015, 12:20:02

Title: Transmission Issues...1966 230sl
Post by: Bacchus802 on March 14, 2015, 12:20:02
I have had to refill my transmission fluid more frequently in the last few years.  Recently shifting issues (not up shifting) had me visit a mechanic ( been working on MB since 1966)  he indicated that with a refill the car shifted, loudly(they all do) but properly.  Having had to refill 3 times in the last 3 years he showed my leakage and suggested replacing the seal.  Based on recent history this makes sense to me.  At a non-dealer...What do you think is a fair range for this type work?    Thanks very much.
Title: Re: Transmission Issues...1966 230sl
Post by: GGR on March 14, 2015, 22:51:08
It depends on which seal. Price can vary a lot as labor involved won't be the same.
Title: Re: Transmission Issues...1966 230sl
Post by: ja17 on March 15, 2015, 00:03:46
Also, the torque converter could be leaking. If you take it out to work on it, I would replace the front and rear seals, replace the front pump o-ring seal, replace the modulator diaphragm with gasket, check operation of the  three position solenoid, change and shifter or shift rod bushings, and do a fluid and filter change with new cork gasket. Do a pressure check on the torque converter. So if rebuilt units are available out there for about 2K,  Any estimates for this re-seal should be quite a bit less. Add on the cost of removal and installation. Make sure you have someone who knows what they are doing.
Title: Re: Transmission Issues...1966 230sl
Post by: Benz Dr. on March 15, 2015, 16:48:47
Joe. How do you pressure test a converter?
Title: Re: Transmission Issues...1966 230sl
Post by: ja17 on March 16, 2015, 00:21:14
Not a difficult procedure. Place the converter on a flat surface with the transmission side up. Find a way to plug the open tube. (You can use a hose and clamps and a plug).  Fill the valley around the rivets and hub with water.  Apply about 60psi of shop air into the converter fluid drain plug opening. You will see air bubbles emerge around the hub or the rivets if is a leaker. Caution!!! Keep yourself out of the line of "fire" during testing, in case the clamp apparatus turns projectile. Some transmission shops can test these for leaks also.  The latest version converters were all steel and welded and never leak (not leak testing required). The middle version were all steel and had riveted hubs (these seem to be the most prone to leakage, always test these). The earliest versions were aluminum with steel riveted hubs. (test these also but leaks not likely).