Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: Rodolfo on April 06, 2014, 15:53:51
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I have a 230 sl 66. manual.
Today I rebuilded the differential (4.08 to 3.25 and all new bearings). There was not a problem, normal mechanical work, which was rather straight forward. Also thanks to great advices here.
But:
I also had a broken U-joint/slider on the right rear axle (actually the main reason why I opened the rear axle).
After a long search, I finally found a shop which had a U-joint for sale.The seller told it was new. (not so cheap as a result). I bought it.
Now I have two questions:
1) is this U-joint normally with the inner slide included? So I should have it with a new slide in it?
2) for the moment I use the so called new joint, and was taking the slider out of my old, to build it into the new joint.
Also there was a breakage in the inner-slider, it seems. See photo. Is this slider seperate for sale, or always included in the joint normally?
best regards,Rudy
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Hi Rudy,
Congratulations for making the decision to convert to the 3,27 ratio rear axle. I did the same 5 years ago and I'm very pleased with the outcome. I purchased 2 used complete 3,27 rear axles as donors. They both turned out to be fully functional so I sold one to a member here. Unfortunately I did not separately purchase the part you need. In fact I didn't dismantle the donor axles to the point where I could see this part. I simply used the complete U-joints which included the slider piece. Sorry I don't have the answer you seek.
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According to the EPC, the slider is PN 110 350 00 48, available for $260 list. This is for cars as of ID 014750. NLA for older cars.
My congrats also for taking this on.
Cheers,
CT
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my car is 113 042 10 0015364 so that should be right then?
PS Taking on the diff was a smoother job then I expected. Everything inside was very healthy there. But I changed all bearings as well. The 3.27 pinion and gear- kit was fitting perfect. Now my only problem is with that slider.
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Hi Rudy,
Glad the donor axle was good inside. I found both of the ones I purchased to be very robust. I changed outer wheel bearings as well. Did not replace pinion gear bearings. I also installed a new axle hanger and trailing arm bushings.
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Yes, according to the EPC, that part will work in your car. You should be able to order it through your local dealer.
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Chuck, thanks a lot. I will check with the Mercedes dealer.
Jeff, thanks for the encouragement.
best regards, Rudy
PS I didn't actually used donor parts, but purchased new gears and bearings. A complete donor subassembly would have been ok, but gears or bearings which are used, I don't combine in another setup. A complete used rear axle I would use. In my opinion used gears or bearings are worn in to each other in that particular casing and not so advisable used in a new combination. At least not for long term trouble free use.
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Hi Rudy,
I have no experience with an old axle hosting a n we gear set. Hope it goes well. Carefully with the crush sleeve alignment tool go on pin and ring gear..
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hola Rodolfo,
yo estoy interesado en hacer la conversion a 3,25
donde ha comprado el piñon y la corona? y cual es su metodo de ajuste?
saludos.
Hi Rodolfo,
I'm interested in doing the conversion to 3.25
where you purchased the pinion and gear kit (crown)? and what is your method of adjustment?
Greetings.
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I guess I also need to change the crush sleeve between the pinion bearings.
Anyone knows the partnumber of this?
It is a 230sl from 1966 with VIN 113042 10 0015364
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If you are switching out the pinion and crown gear, you will most definitely need to do the crush sleeve. This is required to set the spec pre-load on the two bearings that the pinion rides on. Be careful when ordering the crush sleeve as they are not all the same amongst the differing axles. I know the axles used on the 230SL stock rear ends are of a different design from those used on the later models. Also, be aware that a number of adjustments using shims need to be made to get the correct mesh between the pinion and crown gear as well as the correct set back. I'm not entirely clear from some of the manuals I have read on this how to do it properly and I'm sure this is a big reason why a lot of us shy away from doing any rear axle work that gets into this. My understanding is that if not done properly, you will have noise from the rear end and possibly gear failure. I have talked to some mechanics who have done this work on American built rear axles and they have said it is pretty straightforward but that the MB rear is of a much different design which makes the adjustments more problematic. Perhaps Dan, Gernold and Joe A can better fill you in on the particulars of how to do it correctly. Not trying to scare you, but you should be aware of all the potential minefields before taking on a total gear replacement--it's not just a remove and replace proposition.
Good Luck and let us know how it goes
George
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Hi George,
I am aware of the need to change the crush sleeve. But I don't have the Mercedes partnumber. I hope somebody could help me with that.
best regars, Rudy
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.../... I don't have the Mercedes partnumber. I hope somebody could help me with that
Rudy,
The most efficient step for you is to be member of a M-B club acknowledged my M-B Classic. You then have access to the EPC online, with all part No.s for your car. Discussed several times here on our Forum.
See Peter´s posting http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=19656.0 (http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=19656.0).
If you do not want to go that route, there is a company called SLS in Hamburg who have a good website. You go in on page 35a and there you have your part, complete with the M-B part No. SLS do not supply that part themselves, obtain it from a M-B dealer.
/Hans in Sweden
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A parts dealer refers to it is item 96 in the Epc. Is that correct ?
Would really appreciate confirmation since I don't have access to that.
Rudy
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As for today I now have all the parts. In the mean time I cleaned the rear axle and repainted all in satin Black, looks nice.
Now I have to setup the pinion, with a new crush sleeve and bearings I have. What is the torque I should use for this?
best regards Rudy
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Reading through the forum I don't find torque for the pinion nut. Seems I need to measure the friction torque of this shaft while rotating it. This makes good sense: then you measure the result. And you are not depended anymore of the axial resistance of the bearing to move (which would differ between different shaft, bearing combinations). Right ?
Rudy
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Yes, it is the friction torque you need to measure. Best to creep up on this value cro the lower end of the torque range.If you over torque you need to start all over again with a new crush sleeve.
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Thanks George, for the affirmation.
Today I assembled the pinion axle without a crush sleeve in between the bearings, to find out where the " touching point" of the bearings would be. I measured then how deep the nut was. So now I will disassemble again and put the new crush sleeve in between the bearings.
What I noticed was that I can only lock the nut on the pinion shaft every 1/4 of a tour. That is a pitty, since at one position the bearings are still a bit loose, but 1/4 further they are to tight. Any suggestion?
best regards, Rudy
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Pinion and U-joint problems all solved now. I started to reassemble the rear axle.
Question:
1) now was a 14 mm hexagon bolt used for the u-joint. It is a bit hit (head not straight anymore ). I will look tomorrow to find another. In case I don't find an original hexganon, is an Allen bolt M8 completely exchangeable with the hexagon?
best regards, Rudy
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I have seen both type bolts used in this application. Not sure which one is stock though
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How did you get the pre-load on the diff: carrier bearings correct and did you use engineers blue to ensure you have the correct mesh ???
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I used a alcohol based marker, since I had no engineers blue.
I needed to shim an additional 0.2 mm behind the right bearing (to have play around 0.16 mm). The left bearing I did on feel with the big nut. It is now slightly different then before (two openings further) Have no idea about torque for that.
best regards, Rudy
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Quite an involved job! What method did you use to take the left bearing race out of the wheel tube? Where did you get the shim(s)? Nice job!
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The shims are very cheap to get where they sell bearings. Standard 63-80 mm can be bought at different thicknesses.
For the left bearing race I made a small plate which I could block behind the race and then I knocked it out through the tube hitting on that small plate.
Problem today:
I was reassembling the rear axle, after closing the differential. When I putted the U-joint with an Allen bolt to the differential right side I noticed a bit of grinding when I turned the U-joint. First I thought the U-joint was touching the big nut. It wasn't. So I reopened the differential again to have a closer look. Seems nothing wrong with the new bearings or the pinion and big gear of the pumpkin. It are the small gears in the pumpkin . To be more specific: the small gear (right side of the car) where you bolt the U-joint onto, has some axial play of about 1 mm (all the three other gears seem to be fine). Also no problems with the pins on the small gears. I placed some photos.
1) should there be no axial play?
2) these small gears of course only turn in corners, but it should be repaired? Or am I worrying to much about that?
3) could that small axle been pushed a bit inside, when placing the right inner bearing?
4) how can I retract that small axle? How is it axial connected? Any rings there?
5) anybody has a cross section drawing of this?
thanks in advance
Rudy
(I am a bit dissapointed, I thought I was through the problems)
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You should not have any play there. I saw that once on a 6.3 and for some reason the side differential pinion had eaten the cavity in the diff carrier it slides in. I would personally not put back a differential in that condition. You need to take the crown out and then the center pin out. You will then be able to get the two differential gears that were held by the pin out. After that, you will be able to take the side differential pinions out one by one, by pushig them towards the center and then sliding them out through the opening in the diff carrier. You will then have to inspect all the parts for damage and wear. Your carrier will most likely be damaged. I guess it could be repaired by sleeving it. Replacing it by a good used one may be more cost effective, especially if you get a complete diff unit, as other parts of yours may also be damaged.
Also, the bearing and that pinion are not connected, apart from the carrier itself with the lip for the bearing on one side and the cavity for the pinion on the other side. Apart from braking the carrier itself, pushing the bearing into place will not affect the position of the pinion. I don't remember any shims behind the side pinions. Play is controlled by plastic shims on top of the other two pinions held by the center shaft. You may have to replace these plastic shims by new ones.
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I understand. It is probably best that I also solve this issue.
But I don't have any spare differential. So I would like to repair this one (I already had the cost of the U-joint, pinion, gear and bearings , all new, around 2000 euro)
I hope maybe only small costs involved to look at this new issue.
It would be great if anyone had a cross section drawing, before I look further into it.
Rudy
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To GGR,
thanks for your guidance.
I took out the center pin. The pin itself shows some radial wear, where the small gears rotate at it.
As I look into it the axial play, it can only be caused of wear of the gears or the pin or plastic bushings. The rigt side gear (where the U-joint is attached to) is fit between the two small side gears. If these wear out the right side gear can approach further to the pin. That is what happened.
I see that the small gears have some wear and the pin itself also. Would it be ok to change the two side gears and the pin and still use the other two gears? (Only those parts will cost new around 800 euro).Or should I try to add two more plastic bushings and change the pin (cost 200 euro)?
best regards, Rudy
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I think I misinterpreted your previous message and I assumed that the right pinion had some play in the carrier cavity (ie the cavity and/or the pinion were chewed up). I assumed so because I have seen that on a 6.3 axle which also had problems with the U-joint. You should really check if all is fine there but from your last message it appears that this is not the problem. If so, you are in much better shape. All depends on how badly worn the smaller pinions are. You can change the pin and the plastic bushings and see if that's enough. An indicator is that these plastic bushings/washers are difficult to fit new, as they are thicker than the space they go into once the smaller gears press against the bigger side ones. If that's the case, you may not need to replace the smaller pinions. However, because of the wear, you may end up with some noise when you drive in curves. You may want to show these smaller pinions to a professional and see what he thinks. You also need to check the condition of the carrier where the pin lodges as sometines the holes wear and the pin ends up having some play there. I still think you may be able to source some good used parts. They are the same on the fintails which were produced in great numbers. Try asking your local section of the BM club for example.
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Today I had again some time to work further on the differential. I purchased the small axle , and the two spherical nylon rings. Went Ok.
All look quite ok, except when I push on the U-joint towards the differential, I still get noise from the satellite gears. So I looked a bit further. It seems I can push the u-joint (even with the Allen bolt tightened to the right tension) axial for about 3 a 4 mm inside the differential . This way I can put axial force on the bigger satelite wheel and then the noise begins.
So I think there is a ring missing on the U-joint side to take away axial play.
See the photo where you can see a gap (next to the bronze ring). Should there be another ring to take away the axial play? If so, what is the Mercedes part number? I guess the width should be around 3 to 4 mm.
I didn't forgot the spacer ring on the gear (1,6 mm), see other photo.
Maybe the ring I am missing is D35 258 at Niemoeller? What would be the Mercedes number?
Anybody hasa better technical drawing of those details?
I am close of finalizing, but I always end up having small problems :-(
The help of our forum would greatly improve my chances of succeeding.
Thans, Rudy
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the photo with the gap (which should not be there, I guess) at the bronze ring:
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I've never worked on early axles and they are all a bit different, depending on gear ratios etc. Notably, presence or not, and thickness of spacer between U-joint and pinion may vary. However, I'm quite positive that the U-joint bolts opposite the ring on the carrier, not the way it shows on your last picture. You need to swap the pinions' side so as to be able to bolt the U-joint on the other side.
The U-joint is bolted onto the pinion. Does that mean your pinion can move back and forth 3 or 4 mm? An indicator is that the plastic shims should be difficult to fit. As a result you should not have any play there. Or is the play in between the U-joint and the pinion?
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The copper washer that you have located on the u/j is at the wrong location, it is a thrust washer and is fitted on the sun wheel,( if you left the soft copper washer in the position you have it in the bolt that holds the u/j in position would very soon work loose) it is the steel washer that should be on the u/j.
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what steel washer would it be? Thicknes of around 3 to 4 mm? What part number would that be?
That would be my missing part, I guess
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The copper washer that you have located on the u/j is at the wrong location, it is a thrust washer and is fitted on the sun wheel,( if you left the soft copper washer in the position you have it in the bolt that holds the u/j in position would very soon work loose) it is the steel washer that should be on the u/j.
That makes sense, however the diameters seem to be wrong. The copper (or bronze?) washer looks to be too small to fit on the pinion side.
I looked on EPC and the picture is the same as the one posted earlier. However, even if the spacer noted DB35 258 is present on the EPC (generic) picture, it is not part of the list of parts listed for the 230SL. So I don't think you need it.
The spacers on the U-joint side come in a variety of thicknesses, from 1 to 2mm. And as tel76 suggests, I've only seen steel spacers on that side, but again, I have no experience with the earlier rear axles. EPC part numbers for these spacers go from 180 353 30 52 for the 1mm thick one up to 180 353 49 52 for the 2mm thick one. Increment in thicknesses is .1mm, but some thicknesses seem to have two part numbers.
The thrust washer on the pinion side is available in various thicknesses too, from 1.3 mm up to 2.0 mm, and part numbers start by 180 for some and 115 for others.
There is also a ring 110 353 00 48, not appearing on the picture posted earlier, not sure where it is supposed to go, but it is on the parts list for the 230 sl and shows on the EPC picture (the one posted earlier is cut in the bottom before that ring shows).
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My fortune cookie says I am not lucky today:
After I fixed all previous problems and finally assembled everything (with making proper tools all the time, as we all know we have to do on this kind of job) I discovered a very nasty thing:
The slider sleeve which was very, very hard to find and with all the fun of installing in the U-joint with the 108 rolls, seem to have another spline then the right axle.
I didn't looked at that before, because it had the same length and fitted in the U-joint with the 108 rolls, which I thought was the only thing to worry.
I took some measures:
My old slider sleeve (which has a crack):
inner diameter : app. 25,4 mm (inner circlle of the teeth), app 28 mm outside diameter of teeth, 25 holes for splined axle, length is 82 mm
My right side axle: outer diameter teeth app 27,3 mm , 25 teeth
I have bought by a slider sleeve (very very hard to find) which seems to be wrong for the axle (in the U-joint it fits correct) and has:
inner diameter of the teeth: 27,4 mm, outher diameter 29,5 mm, holes for 27 teehted axle, length is equal 82 mm.
1) Now comes the hard part: what was wrong, the partnumber suggested being 110-350-00-48. Or did the supplier gave me a wrong one, thinking it was a 110-350-00-48 (there was no Mercedes packing)
2) which one would I need in cas the part sold was that number, but the number 110-350-00-48 was not correct (230 sl ,66 VIN 113042 10 0015364)?
3) where would I find one? (New, I hope, since I renewed almost everything on the rear axle and differential by now)
4) If not findable, would another right axle with 27 teeth being hard to find, and would it have the same length and other features as my original axle?
bad, bad luck, since I was nearly there,
best regards, Rudy
PS on the photo is the left one, my old cracked. In the U-joint is the new, which is to big inside for my axle.
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How about having your old slider made new by a metalworking shop, and selling (or returning to who you bought it from) the non-fitting part? May even be cheaper, who knows. This must be how cars get maintained and restored for which there aren't any parts available anymore?
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That would be costly I guess, I had a machinebuilding company for 25 years and ordered a lot of milled parts. The spline inside is expensive to make, the part should be also hardened, since the 108 rolls go over it. I guess it would be very expensive. I don't dare to think about that.
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Ah, well that's a pity then. Maybe next best thing is indeed a used part if a new one is not to be found. Best of luck, sorry I can't help out with this one.
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EPC confirms that 110-350-00-48 is the correct p/n for VIN 113042 10 0015364. However you need to make sure the rear axle on your car is the original one. It may have been swapped at some time during the car's life. Later axles have a serial number stamped on the center casing. If you have such a serial number you may be able to find out if it is the correct one for your car. May be it's noted on the data card, if not, MB may be able to help you.
If your axle is original to the car, then you may have been supplied with the wrong sleeve. Or, your axle may have been worked on and parts non original to it were fitted in it. The correct p/n for your right wheel shaft is 110 357 12 01. try to see if there is a part number stamped on yours somewhere.
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I just bought access to the EPC for a year and yes, it seems the slider sleeve should be that one.
Now I don't know if the supplier gave me the correct one (since no Mercedes part number on the package).
My shaft is still in the axle tube (since I was renewing the bearings and gaskets and seals) Maybe there is a part number inside hidden now? On the center of the shaft on the wheel side I only notice the number U.
But if they swapped the axle with a smaller spline, how did the find then the correct slider sleeve to fit? And if they did, how can I find out to find another one like this?
So , is it sure there will be a number on the axle ? Because then I have to uninstall it out of the axle tube. Which is fitted hard now, since I used Cilindrical Locktite Strong for the bearing.
So I am confused now.
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In fact I'm not sure there is a p/n on the shaft, and if the left one does not have one, then it is reasonable to assume the right one does not have it either.
Try to find someone who is fiddling with fintails. If you trace a rear axle, it's not that hart to spit it and measure the parts. They go for cheap, so you may end up if spare parts.
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To GGR,
on my datacard is written: hinterachse: 15601
Should it then be axle part number 110 357 15 01 instead of 110 357 12 01 according to EPC?
But what would be their difference??? the Spline????
(Not sure, I am a first time user of EPC (since 30 minutes)).
Rudy
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Ha! EPC usually specifies VIN numbers (apart for engine parts where they specify engine numbers). So I didn't pay attention and I assumed 10453 was the VIN number when the change occurred. But in this case they specify the rear axle number (which makes sense). Not only that but they usually chronologically list the first model on top and later replacement under it. In this case they did the contrary. So one can easily get confused if not paying close attention. In your case, the correct sleeve seems indeed to be 110 357 15 01. Try to see if the supplier who sold you the other one can exchange it with that one.
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Well, even more confusing, I now did a search using your vin number and EPC says that the 110 350 00 48 one is used as of VIN 14750 and up. That does not seem to be consistent with the rear axle serial number on your data card.
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The earlier search I did was per model type, not VIN. It gave me a result according to rear axle serial number, and the sleeve 110 357 15 01 is used as of rear axle 10453 and up. Itried to do a new search by model type, but it now gives me the cut out per VIN number, not rear axle serial number.
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The progress:
I was a bit away from the project for a vacation on Corsica (which is great by the way!).
Finally I could find the right sliding sleeve. Turned out that the one I had was for a 220S and not for the 230sl. I installed it and composed the rear axle. All went fine there.
Now I am in the process of hanging the rear axle again under the car.
I have some questions concerning the rear axle and the alignment tool. I made the plumbing model.
But:
The car: I measured the car, and yes the points on the bottom where you attach the torque arms are of course 877 mm from each other, like the tool as well. And the point where the carrier or vertical support is connected is also a fixed point. So all that seems logical.
My rear axle: after reassembling the points where the torque arms attach to the car are 890 (instead of 877) mm from each other. Of course with small force you can put them at 877 mm because of the rubbers and the long length of the arms to the attachment of the axle. I also very precisely made the vertical support at the distance of 258 mm and perpendicular on the left axle.
Now my problem: When I took the rear axle of the car, I left the lateral support which connects to the "eye" on the differential at its place. That way I could simple reconnect the "eye" between the two rubbers and reconnect that, without losing the setting of that.
Now that I reassembled, some things are a bit sturdy to get where they belong. I started by hanging the rear axle in the shock absorbers and then I connected the vertical support of the differential in its place in the trunk. Then I reconnected the "eye of the lateral support at its previous setting. Then I wanted to put the torque arms on the chassis. They are a bit out of line (remember the 890 mm). And also a bit sturdy to put both right.
The only 2 things I can think of are:
1) Maybe the previous setting of the lateral support to the eye was not correct? So, should I loosen that and first put the torque arms to the car frame and then regulate the lateral support.
2) Or could I have the torque arms of the left and right side switched (I don't think so, but who knows: the 890 mm is also strange) How can I distinguish the right and left torque arm?
Thanks for help on this. Want to get it driving ;-)
Rudy
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I believe that the trailing (torque) arms are the same. I have replaced the bushings on several cars and it has always been a small challenge to get the front mounts secured. I use a homemade cone-shaped tool that screws into the large threaded hole. I then put a floor under the trailing arm and raise it, allowing the tool to guide it.
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I believe that the trailing (torque) arms are the same.
Actually I believed the same for a long time but they are different: 110 350 10 29 for the left side, and 110 350 11 20 for the right side. Not sure what the difference is though.
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Actually they are not the same and the tell tale is the flat portion where the donut that attach forward are located. If you roll them over and view this area you can see where the two are different. Now don't ask me which is the right and which is the left. Somewhere either here in the Forum or in the BBB I found that information the time I did need it.
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Good catch, George. My bad.
CT
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Yes, the control arms are not the same. They are slightly angled inward and do not come off the axle at 90 degrees. In this way they are a right and left angled in opposite directions.
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Yesterday I had all under the car again. Went for a testdrive (10 km).
I have some noise, but expected that: I did not put full load on the pinion nut to avoid overpressurizing the bearings and sleeve. Did a small turn further, less noise. But still some. But the nut is not possible to move further, although I still have some play. This play I expected after a testdrive: The oil gets warm, the pinion gets back pressure (after a while I did full accelerations) , so the pinion can creep a bit further to the front of the car. My plan was to take away the play after the testdrive. But as mentioned the nut seems to be stuck. Maybe I will put a washer just before the nut. It could be that the thread is not free enough to go further with the nut. I will try that the next evenings after work.
But: the drive was great! The 3,25 ratio is perfect for the 230 sl manual.
I will post my progress with the nut later on.
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I may be wrong, but it seems to me that the more you tighten the nut, the more you pull the pinion forward and the more play you end-up with. There is a collapsible sleeve in there that needs to be put new. Once it's collapsed too much, then you need to replace it with a new one. I've also seen some spacing rings put on each side of that collapsible sleeve, though they don't seem to show on EPC. The other adjustment you have is that big nut on the right side of the differential carrier. But same thing: the more you tighten it, the more play you have between the crown and the pinion. If you need to get the carrier and the crown more towards the right, it can be done by adding spacer washers behind the left bearing race in the wheel tube. In the meantime, you can try a thicker oil to reduce the noise.
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I didn't mean play between ring and pinion. I ment a small play of the pinion shaft in its bearings, which appeared after a testdrive with full power on it. So I can put more torque on the pinion nut and collapse the sleeve a bit more. The bearings on the pinion shaft were very narrow. So probably they went on further, since heating the differential by driving, heats up first the bearings and gears and keeps the shafts cooler. So bearings can sometimes slide further and so making some play. I gues that is what happened. Means I can tighten the pinion nut a bit further. But that is very difficult. It is like a hard stop, while I still have some play in the bearings of the pinion shaft. That is why I would try to first install a washer and then again the nut and try to tighten it further.
After that I hope I don't have to much play between pinion and ring gear (since the pinion will go forward to the car, as you mention). Then I shoudl indeed adjust with spacing washer on the left bearin in the wheel tube.
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Oh, I see. And do you have play between the ring and the pinion? i.e. can you feel some play when you turn the drive shaft flange back and forth? If so, how much? With time, everything first seats into place and then with wear, you end up having more and more clearance everywhere. So the less play you have between ring and pinion at the beginning, the best it is. So try to tighten that pinion shaft as little as necessary.
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To be short:
did several tesdrives. Progressively I have put a bit more torque on the pinion in between. The noise went further away, until completely dissappeared.
Now I am very happy: the 3.25 is great on the 230sl. It was a lot of effort, but I am very pleased with the result.
Not only is cruising at 120 km/h perfect now, but all the gears fit very good now in a progressive way while pulling up.
Thanks a lot to all people who helped me on the forum. A few persons were very close following and giving very good advices, special thanks to them.
Rudy
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This weekend I drove 700 km with the car: from Belgium to Germany (Monschau, Bad Munstereifel) and back. No problems. Back home I checked all bolts with torque wrenches. Only a little bit adjustment needed.
So I am glad all is OK now. Now I would like to decrease exhaust sound through the bonnet. But that is another topic,
thanks Rudy
PS I saw a white Pagoda just over the border of Belgium in Germany. We used both our horns. Don't know it was a German or a Belgian driver.
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You may consider replacing your diff oil after 700 to 1000 km with new ring and pinion.
Someone at the Williamsburg 50 gathering had glued a sound dampening material on the inside of the hood (bonnet). You may need to make sure that all your mounts (front subframe, engine and transmission) are in good shape as otherwise it may decrease clearance between the valve cover and the hood which may be a problem with the added material.
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Good idea about the diff oil. That is the wise way to go.