Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items => Topic started by: Theclaw on October 23, 2013, 01:20:17
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I'm putting the car into storage for the winter and was wondering if it's ok to leave the soft top retracted. It's logistically easier to mount the hard top and tuck the car away for a few months. Will I be doing any damage by keeping the top retracted like that for a long period of time? Are there rules of thumb about keeping the top up?
Thank you very much,
Jeff
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Hi Jeff - I don't recall any definitive advice on up or down, but if you store the top, may want to 'tuck' the corners underneath the frame to prevent them from curling upwards,ater. I think I've stored my car with the soft top down and it didn't cause problems. Just make sure it's completely dry and probably good to dust it off a bit. Some members store it with a terry cloth between the window folds, but I find you can polish the window to new condition with some Mequiar's products for this purpose.
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Jeff
I cannot advise what the best storage is but I can tell you that when I bought my car the soft top had been stowed away for 10 - 15 years according to the previous owner. The top was fine when I opened it up. It was stiff and was a very tight fit ... but was fine. I would emphasize what Cess mentions about tucking in the corners ... mine were not tucked in and they curled up for a while.
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Guys that's helpful. Thanks very much. Griots has a reconditioning product, that might help too.
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O.K....I store my soft top down and the corners have been curling up. I don't quite understand how you "tuck" the corners. Not sure if that can be explained, maybe a picture? Thanks for input.
Franco250SL
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I'm with Franco, I think Cees is referring to the rounded corners that should press on the trunk area? Its so tight in the boot that I'm amazed there is enough room to turn the corners under!
I too, have stored the top down for years, only the corners curl temporarily.
A BIG warning on putting the top up in cool and especially cold air: The window will crack as though cut with a knife. 1st time I was camping in Coloma, drove to the hills from the Bay area through the hot valley, with the top down, I used to slam the back down because the top is tight and I had no fear. It was jacket weather and getting dark when I closed it and I didn't take notice of the window, next morning I thought a vandel cut the window during the night and it just never made sense. Next time it happened, to my horror, the crack appeared right away. A heat gun might be a good idea for an old window coming out of a rather cool car. That may be why the next generation has a cable accross the window.
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After I bought the car in 2009 the softop remained stored for more than three years before the renowation was completed (or nearly completed, as usual :D). After the car returned on the road, the softop look neat and as new. Obviously, it has to be folded correctly, which is not always very easy task to do.
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I'm with Franco, I think Cees is referring to the rounded corners that should press on the trunk area? Its so tight in the boot that I'm amazed there is enough room to turn the corners under!
I too, have stored the top down for years, only the corners curl temporarily.
Cees is entirely correct. Folding the corners under is a painful business if you have fat fingers or big hands, but it's worth it. I also think it's worth putting a rolled towel at the window fold to avoid the issue gary mentions. I actually use a length of foam pipe cladding with a bit of velvet wrapped around it. Because I like velvet. ;D
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The 'corner folding procedure' has been described here a number of times; the way I do it is with the top almost completely lowered, I tuck the corners underneath the frame, ie between the frame and the soft top boot. First one corner, then walk around, raise the top slightly again, and 'tuck'. You have to be careful with always tucking under though, as the corners can start curling in, rather than up. Others have made a "shoe horn-like tool' out of a plastic milk/juice jug to protect the fingers and ease the procedure. I agree pictures would be good for this procedure.
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Jeff, just to add to other posts. When I purchased my car the PO told me he had never used the soft top in all the time he had the car. He had it 20 years. When I opened it and unfolded it, it looked brand new. No creases in the plastic window (I use a large diameter pool noodle in the window now when I close it up). I agree about folding down the corners as that was the only thing that was wrong with the soft top after 20 years.
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My car was stored for 4 years in a heated and air-conditioned garage (only taken a couple of times to some car shows), before I found it. From what I know the previous owner told me his wife never put the soft top up at all during the time she had the car (1992 to 2008). Perhaps that is why the soft top looks original (small stitching).
However, the Florida owner must have used the soft top several times (there is light damage at the rear corners where the bracket mechanism makes contact with the soft top material). Joe Alexander pointed out it is due to the frame at the corner being very rough and that it needs to be sanded down using a fine grit sandpaper. Run your hand over the corner frame area when lowering the top you will feel the rough spots.
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Best bet is to store the hard top on a rolling tray for such use, and store the car with soft top up and in place. But as everyone has stated, you just got to be careful with the corners, and the window. Even when I put the top down for driving on nice days. I have a large swim noodle rapped in terry cloth towel placed in the window crease to assure that the window has the perfect crease. I always keep the towel rapped towel in the top boot. Note make sure it is a bit longer then the window, and you place it there when you lift up the back of top to meet the bow.
Bob