Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: magicman on September 20, 2013, 01:31:09
-
Can someone provide me with the manual transmisiion drain plug washer part #? I've contacted two MB dealers with no luck. thank you
-
There are two shown, and but I don't understand the difference so you might want to order both: N007603 024100 and N007603 024105.
I think it's either a 24x29 or a 24x30 aluminum seal ring.
It's right in the parts catalog, how could they not know it?
-
Thank You Chuck!
-
some were along the life of the 1968 280SL the Transmission was rebuild and is smooth shifting automatic
Their is a plate with numbers on the right side I do not know if it was replaced or rebuilt. what numbers would give this away
The rope seal still leaks if the car is not driven, is there an after maker seal that is better to use that would prevent this problem.
I am suddenly starting to think I have a British transmission.
Bob Geco
1968 Pagoda 1130440012201906
-
Bob,
I have replaced my rope seal three times in the past six months. I think it is a black art to get it right. The data card will have the box number that you are looking at so if it matches then it has been rebuild, if not you could assume it is a replacement.
-
Isn't he asking about the standard trans drain plug?
The rope seal is a black art and when done correctly it will not leak, or at least not very much. I use a new seal and an old hammer handle to knock it into place. I made a small tool about .020'' thick that fits around the seal while I'm cutting it with a razor knife. This knife has to be really sharp. Watch where you place your fingers, you can get a nasty cut and it's very easy to get cut while doing this job. Do the oil pan on both sides of the seal and make sure the seal is firmly bedded in the groove.
The block is done the same way but it's almost impossible to make a good job of it if the crank is still in place. If someone installled the seal/s and cut them level with the block and oil pan it will always leak - a lot! I have been able to install only the oil pan side in this situation with fairly good sucess but that's where the really black art stuff comes into play. This requires a lot of carefull measuring or it won't work.
-
Contact Thomas Hanson at the Mercedes Classic centre ... His e-mail is thomas.hanson@mbusa.com
Or you may contact the other fellows in his office if it's urgent,
Woody or Jon during his absence.
robert.woods@mbusa.com 949 598-4845
jon.siggson@mbusa.com 949 598-4843
He gave me excellent service also he can provide your DATA CARD if you e-mail him proof of car ownership including your VIN # and drivers licence. You can do all this by e-mail he will get back to you. When he looks at your data card he can tell exactly what you will need.
-
I ordered & received the correct "crush" washers from a Benz Dealer & the manual trans fluid was changed using Mobil One. Know it's time to put the car away for the winter. >:(
-
The rope seals are pinned by a small spike sticking out of the pan and the block inside the seal groove. So, the block seal cannot be replaced with the crankshaft in place. Yes, Dan is right, the rope seal must be fully seated before cutting or the seal will end up being short after installation.