Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items => Topic started by: Harry on March 11, 2013, 17:17:02
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Does anyone have some pictures of the actual panels that make up the front floor board, the sills and the geometry inside/behind the sills? I have some rust on mine and I'm just trying to decide how extensive it is and how best to repari it. No amount of rust looks good but I think this is repairable. I've seen the cut-a-ways but it's hard for me to visualize from those. Actual photos of a car during the removal of various panels would be a big help.
Thanks!
Harry
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Do these help?
(http://www.sl113.org/imagebank/images/71beige280sl/a3.jpg)
(http://www.sl113.org/imagebank/images/71beige280sl/a4.jpg)
(http://www.sl113.org/imagebank/images/71beige280sl/a7.jpg)
(http://www.sl113.org/imagebank/images/71beige280sl/a8.jpg)
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Yes they do. The area in your 2nd photo where the lift seems to be going through a section you've cut-a-way is particularly interesting. Do you have a photo looking towards the car (rather than pointing away from the car?
Thanks!
Harry
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I have to ask, Mr. 71Beige280sl what kind of welder are you using - wire, amperage, wire speed? Those welds look awsome.
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Here is one of the inside sill structure. This was during dry fitting and before the firewall was replaced. Notice the inner section wraps from the top of the sill down and half way up the inner side. The floor just overlaps the sill at the sides. Check the area directly behind the sill on the inner rail as well.
I have a bunch of photos of the sill restoration so let me know if you need more.
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Harry,
I think this is the one you're looking for. The arrow points to a structural repair inside the sill.
Bonnyboy,
I had the work done at Motoring Investments in San Diego. I am not sure of the wire, amperage or speed.
(http://www.sl113.org/imagebank/images/71beige280sl/a9.jpg)
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The welds appear that way probably because they are stacked. As opposed to one continuous mig weld a series a overlapping single welds are applied for the same result with more control and less grinding is required to remove excess material.
Its probably worth noting that most of these panels were originally spot welded. So a continous butt weld may be overkill. Although thats what i did ::)
Many restorers use weld through primer on the panel over lap and replicate spot welds using a spot weld hole punch on the panel edges and then weld into the hole (plus grind off excess).
And dont forget to grind off the zinc coating on galvanized repair panels edges prior to welding.
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Thanks very much 71Beige280SL and shvegel. Actually, the cut-a-way through the sill showing the jack supports is the biggest help to me. Looking at an exploded diagram on a Bud's Benz site, I see a Frame Rail, Frame Rail Cap and Rocker Panel Cover. I gather your photo is end view of the Rail and Cap in position? The photo is a big help. It looks as though there is a paenl beneatht the lower trim piece that unscrews (and I have that feedback from the forum). I am going to remove that piece soon and hopefully that will answer a bunch of my questions. In the meantime, the additional photos that you offer would be much appreciated.
Thank you again,
Harry
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Harry - I have more pictures on my Mac at home. I am traveling this week but, happy to send a few more this weekend.
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Please do - much appreciated.