Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: Miloslav Maun on November 01, 2012, 13:40:42
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I have three brake boosters that are bad. My car seems to eat them. I always buy a used one on ebay and in a few months its gone again. So this time I prefer a professional rebuild instead.
Do you know a compay or individual in Europe that can rebuild them? Thanks for any help.
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Muf--
A couple of thoughts for you.
1. Have you replaced the check valve assembly? Maybe something bad is getting into your boosters.
2. The boosters contain rubber; rubber ages, and if you are buying old break boosters--it is no wonder that they are failing.
3. Somebody wise once told me don't rebuild the brake booster or the master cylinder. Replace them when they fail, with new. I think your experience is the reason why they said this.
By the time you add up all the used boosters, and a rebuilt cost, you might have exceeded ONE new one which might last for many years.
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Well, that may be true. If I add the price of the old ones I bought and the repair I'm ready to spend money for, I'd probably be better off buying the new one back when they were still available. But I cannot find a new one anymore.
EDIT: It's the T51-200 type. I was told the newer T52 is not compatible.
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EDIT: It's the T51-200 type. I was told the newer T52 is not compatible.
Try this, can't hurt: http://www.ate.de/generator/www/com/en/ate/ate/general/30_news/download/anfrage_formular_en.pdf ATE Classic says the T51 is available--try filling out that form or calling them?
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I've repaired quite a few boosters and in all of them the main two diaphragms were like new. You can buy repair kits for them but they don't come with the main diaphragms anyway.
Rust is commonly the cause of failures and even it can be remedied.
Danger lurks for the unwary though.......
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Danger lurks for the unwary though.......
Care to elaborate?
Also, do you have the ATE parts numbers for the rebuild kit and the diaphragm(s)?
What exactly comes with the rebuild kit?
Thanks,
-Waqas
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There's a large spring contained within and the servo will do a good impression of a mean jack-in-the-box!
Kits I've seen are pretty poor so I've never bought one. I simply buy the lip seals from a local supplier.
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stickandrudderman: Would you be willing to fix my booster too if I send it to you?
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For those in the US, some years back I used Power Brake Exchange in San Jose. They did great work, and rebuilt my particular unit for under $200.
More info in these threads:
http://sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=2067 (http://sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=2067)
http://sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=531 (http://sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=531)
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stickandrudderman: Would you be willing to fix my booster too if I send it to you?
Yes, but if the main diaphragm(s) has failed then I'm in the same boat as everyone else; I have no supplier for them.
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I just called Power Brake to see about getting my W111 booster rebuilt. I have been waiting for the release of a new booster from MB (almost a year now) and thought I'd look into Power Brake. They sound great! They said they do a lot of these and have ALL of the parts. I asked specifically about the two diaphrams and they said they replace those as well. The cost is still under $200 as others have said.
They also powder coat the shell with a special match black semigloss. I like that a lot. If you don't want the powder coat apperance, you can always top coat with flattened enamel and use the powder coat as a very tough primer.
I'll let you know how it goes.
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Hi Wallace,
Don't forget to remove any and all labels from the booster before you ship them your unit. They will blast off everything from the shells, labels and all (ask me how I know this :( )
I didn't have them powder-coat the unit (didn't think that would be the correct finish), but I'd be interested in seeing how your unit comes out. I still need to have my Pagoda's booster rebuilt.
Best regards,
-Waqas
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Thanks for the warning. You never think about this until its too late! Luckily, I saw the earlier post and heeded the caution. Its in the mail today. My W111 also has a clip on the right side crimp area that secures a small wire harness. I took that off too.
The powder coat will have more orange peel in the finish no doubt about it. As long as the gloss level is close, the more course texture is a compromise for greater durabilty. That is why every restoration is different because people have different thoughts of where to give and take. As my engineering teacher always said, "There's no such thing as a free lunch!"
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The powder coat will have more orange peel in the finish no doubt about it.
Like painting, you will and can get orange peel. If the metal is smooth, and the powder coat applied properly, you won't get ANY orange peel. You need to find a good powder coater. I've used one here for many years, and have never seen orange peel, and never received less than a flawless, perfect job. It is not that expensive, either, IMHO. Last year, I had radiator fan shroud, air cleaner box, battery holder and frame done; in the past, I've had various other pieces done including the wheels. All flawless--no orange peel.
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I powder coated nearly all the black items on my car but was advised
Not to powder coat the booster due to the heat they bake the items
At and what this would do to the rubber diaphragm ...just a heads up..
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I powder coated nearly all the black items on my car but was advised
Not to powder coat the booster due to the heat they bake the items
At and what this would do to the rubber diaphragm ...just a heads up..
Dave, you are quite right about the heat. The powder coat of the brake booster would have to occur only on the disassembled metal shell--which could be done by someone taking it apart and rebuilding it. Once together, you'd have to paint it.
BTW I replaced my brake booster with new ATE back during the restoration, and it has a semi-gloss finish, leaning more towards gloss than matte. Don't know if the original ones were like that but the replacement sure was.