Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: JamesL on September 15, 2012, 14:39:29
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Went for a little jaunt this morning - 20 miles
On the way back the engine was misfiring under load - from about 2500 rpm - and at idle. It revs but is clearly missing a cylinder occasionaly (don't you just love the occasionally" word?). If I take it up the rev range slowy, it seems smooth enough. Get a little heavy footed, and it starts to misfire. Take it out of gear, and rev it, all sounds fine....
Got home, pushed all my leads on to make a decent connection, then removed the HT leads from the plugs and refit. Car revs nicely and not missing a beat
Went to get fuel, and under load, the problem reappeared. I've had a similar issue before (but at higher revs) with a cracked rotor arm (dizzy was fine, just the arm). Running a Crane electronic igntion. I did 100+mile 2 weeks back and had no issue whatsoever.
I checked the oil while getting fuel and it was VERY low (below the notch in the dipstick) - not been leaking so think i must have been burning it... so, oh collectively wise-ones... what have i got?
An electrical problem from the dizzy onwards- never had a Crane fail so no idea if it can do an intermittent fail (ie does it either work or stop completely?)
A spark problem (although it's clearly worse under load but I would guess I am running rich seeing as the car was serviced <1000miles ago and the garage floor is not awash in oil)
A worse problem (eg something mechanical/valve train etc) that may be lack of oil related - although it seems fine when not under load?
And can it be fixed before Wednesday night!!
Any sane thoughts, much appreciated.
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Uhoh... you had better get that fixed soon...
Simple check: how do your spark plugs look?
When was the last time you checked the oil (i.e. is it a recent change in level)?
Is your exhaust fume looking different?
Are all your injectors seated correctly?
Is the gasket ok?
My advice... consult a real expert quick! Hope it get's better soon...
Peter
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Wow that's a real bummer Tosh :-[ :-[
I will echo Peter, if it has been running rich then the plugs may be fouled.
Where has the oil gone? must be smoking surely?
Maybe Stick can help at short notice.
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Thanks - sounds like a job for Colin. I'll pm him as I am waaaay out of my depth!
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Tosh, I had a misfire under light load recently and was advised by Stick to adjust the length of the fuel injection pump rod which worked, he's your man, make the call!, my day went from bad to worse too, last few jobs before the Euro event, fitted GB badge, cleaned car, fitted sat nav to screen, filled fuel - to the brim, then a big pool of fuel dripping off the exhaust. looks like we're both busy now, good luck
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Neil,
Check the small rubber connecting pipes under the tank filler shield in the bot (trunk)
Naj
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Tosh, sorry for gatecrashing.
Naj, thanks, - see http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=17170.0 for progress
Neil
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Don't forget your hi-viz vest and your breathlyser test kist for France. HiViz in the car, not the boot
And if your sat nav has speed camera detection.....
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Tosh - FWIW: check that the FI linkages are all tight, including the brackets that support the linkages. And try a fresh set of spark plugs. I woild also check the resistance of the spark plug wires, maybe one has gone bad. Good luck, it's probably something small.
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Tosh,
I had almost the exact same issue 2 weeks ago and my mechanic replaced a fouled spark plug and it ran much better. I went ahead and replaced the rest of them and it runs beautifully. I'm sure that you have already thought of this and probably checked it but wanted to let you know that it may be something simply (keeping my fingers crossed).
James
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Thanks James - and Cees
Started beautifully this morning and had no misfire - sounds sweet. But then it did yesterday until it got hot.
Stick pm'd me back and I'll take it to his place tomorrow (it's only 120 miles away!) and see what they can do!
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Good. We wouldn't want to miss your car at the event...
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I would install a fresh set of spark plugs before the trip. The oil consumption problem, may or may not be related. If your exhaust is not smoking, and you have no serious leaks, the problem may be worn exhaust valve guides or seals. Not an immediate problem, but keep your eye on the oil level.
If the spark plugs are getting oil fouled, the problem may be intake valve guides or seal, or (less likely) piston rings. Oil or fuel fouled spark plugs will cause your engine miss also.
If spark plugs do not solve the miss problem or only temporarily solve it, you may have a component on the ignition breaking down. An ignition coil failure can be very elusive. They do not fail all at once, but die a lingering death. Temperature, rpms, condition of other ignition components may all contribute.
Read your old set of spark plugs for clues. As per Cees also check the resistance of the spark plug and coil wires.
Good luck.
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Thanks again
I am running VERY rich - at least I have splatters of black deposits coming out of my exhaust pipe. So LIKELY the plugs are fouled and causing the observable problem
Question now is why would it be that rich - either something is out of whack (hopefully) or I have oil going from somewhere I want it to somewhere I don't! Colin Ferns will have fun with that!
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Started beautifully this morning and had no misfire - sounds sweet. But then it did yesterday until it got hot.
Replace the coil.
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Made it 110 of the 120 miles trouble free. Which is good. I drove "lighter of foot" than normal. On the couple of occasions I tried a little harder acceleration I had puffs of smoke flying out the back. We await to find out the reason!
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OOoooooooKKKkkkkk!
My friend Janis working for Colin (stick) took a look at my car. My smoke is a matching accessory to the car, ie is bue/white/grey rather than black. So he ruled out running rich
The plugs are bunged up, black and gunky so I clearly have oil in the combustion chamber and that's the likeliest cause of any misfiring issue I have rather than in the ignition side of things
He thinks the issue is that the gap between piston/compression rings and cylnder wall has worn a bit too big and so oil is getting in that way. Thinks - too busy this week to get the head off and have a look
And of course, once the head is off, there's no guarantee that the block etc won't have to come out if major remedials are needed
So, I have come away with a spare set of plugs, will clean up the ones that are in there and book the car in for work next week.
Will it last the ~1,000 mile trip over the next dew days? Don't know but it seems to run better when going (just sat in traffic for 90 minutes and it sounds like a box of spanners right now) which is a good thing. Advice please folks? Bring a sickly car and perhaps ask for help giving plugs a scrub or come in the Range Rover?? :o
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Tough call. We prefer Pagoda's... :) but if it makes things worse... :'( And roadside assistance is one thing, but not if takes all weekend... >:( Decisions decisions... :-\
Peter
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Management has said "we are going in Audrey"
So it'll be a Poorly Pagoda Peregrination.
I anticipate a daily plug clean!
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One thing though, once there you will have plenty of assistants ready to volunteer, whether you really want them or not!
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Small mercies... sort of
Had all the plugs out and only one of them is gunked up and that is cylinder 6 (or is it 1) nearest the firewall - so when it comes to roadside and hotel carpark over a breakfast cappuccino repairs it should be pretty quick. Black/oily/gunky. But not wet so I guess that's a good thing
I now know exactly where the problem is and fixing one is SO much easier than fixing/cleaning all 6 (both from a plug perspective and from the view of getting it repaired). That said, once the head is off (and potentially the engine out if the rings have gone/need replacing...) why would I only "fix" the one? So it looks like another expensive autumn....
See you Friday. I'll bring the latex gloves!
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............and some oil! Would be interesting to know what compression readings you have?
Looking forward to the meet on Friday see you then :)
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I know it's not a fix but is there a spark plug that is more suitable to oily engines that could be used in no.6 cylinder?
Neil
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James,
It may be worth getting a garage to do your compression readings. Quickest job ever and you don't need your specialist to do it. It'll give you an idea of whether his diagnosis is right or near right/miles off. Seems a bit dramatic to talk of pulling heads, perhaps. You could get a tester in halfords for v little and do it yourself. Dead easy. http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_199553_langId_-1_categoryId_255216
Also, how about just getting a new coil and perhaps changing the wires around (at both ends) cyl 5 for 6 and vice versa, and see if the problem stays with 6. Maybe bring a new coil, plugs and wires with you? If there is a garage, you could get them to check the valve clearance also. (Good tour on here by Alfred and another easy job if you have a bit of time).
Are you on points or elec ignition (I seem to recall you're elec, but can't quite remember)?
I think any decent old fashioned garage could take a good look at your car if you don't have time. I'd say it's worth a bit more investigation as it could be a relatively simple fix. Moreover, your arguments on the way from the kitchen fitters in Germany to Belgium could be all about the worktop granite and oak-effect doors, rather than the fact that you forgot to look up ADACs phone number before you left home.
In short, I see your '3 P's' and offer the Army's 7P's with a SL113.org 8th added for effect: Prior Preparation and Planning Prevents Piss Poor Pagoda Performance (struggles for relevance at this point...I'll get my coat).
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Thanks Colonel
Shall pop back to Halfords and bring it/results with me - time permitting. If 6 is way low I'll be wiser....
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I have one I can bring if you like. Let me know and I'll put it in the trailer!
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Bring it on! Thank you - let's all point and laugh at my engine while we're away.
Must tell wife to book a facial while that's going on!
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Having only had my Pagoda a couple of months, I am not up to speed on these individual engines yet, but
worn valve guides and /or a blocked crankcase (or cam cover) breather could produce some of your symptons.
The results of the compression test should be interesting.
Do you know how much oil the enging is "using" ?
Be aware that worn rings can result in increased crankcase pressure ,
I would keep the revs down, especially on high speed roads, to try and minimise the problems.
Good luck on the trip
Paul
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Hello Tosh,
So #6 cylinder seems to be oiling up..........Is your Pagoda an automatic? Check to make sure that the diaphragm on the auto transmission modulator is not ruptured. when this happens, you will oil up #6 spark plug and will have blue smoke.
Diagnose this by checking your automatic transmission fluid level.
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Joe - yes, an auto so will check my trans fluid. Thanks Paul - that'll be tough for me as it's against all instincts!
Man, I love this place
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Very interesting.... Just checked the transmision fluid and that too is low - again, below the minimum line on the dipstick. So I shall be off finding some of that before I leave.
Tech Manual says I need REDLINE D4 SYNTHETIC ATF 1.4 ltr = 1.5 qts - anyone know if that's universal or different for manual v auto boxes?
So where is all this fluid going??
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Are you checking the level as per Haynes manual, ie car warmed up and engine running in neutral or park?
I use ATF from Halfords which is fine.
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So where is all this fluid going??
Up in smoke ??? ??? ???
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Tosh, All.
Sorry not to have been around personally but I was having a little sojourn in Amsterdam.....
I haven't spoken to my guys yet so I don't know if they've changed the plugs for you and given you a spare set or if they've just given you a spare set and left you to your own devices. If the latter then I would urge you to change and not clean the plug(s) and keep the old ones so I can inspect them. They are a very good indicator of the nature of the problem.
As for the failed diaphragm in the auto trans, I haven't come across it on a 113 in my 31 years of repairing Mercs, but I have seen it on other models and the result is huge plumes of almost white smoke, especially when accellerating. You will know if you have this problem!
Be advised that a compression test is not necessarily a good indicator of engine condition. A cylinder leak test is better but still not definitive. A vacuum test is by far the most reliable but only physical examination of the internals can actually determine the exact nature of any failure that may be present.
Stick.
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Thanks stick
I'm on my old plugs at the moment. Bryan packed me off with 6 new NGKs too (for which I owe you!). I shall make sure you see what I have but currently...
1-5 are "normal" and 6 is "oily"
(http://www.aa1car.com/library/reading_spark_plugs.jpg)
(amazing this interweb!)
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James, hope it works out well for you and you have a great time.
We really are sad not to be making this one, but look forward to the next get together.
Have a great time all.
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Hello James,
When the diaphragm fails in the transmission modulator, it actually breaks or cracks and allows transmission fluid to be sucked up the metal vacuum line going from the transmission to the intake manifold. Since the vacuum line connect to the manifold at the back, near the firewall, the #6 spark plug is the only one which fouls. Depending on how large the rupture is in the diaphragm will determine how much transmission oil is consumed and how much smoke is blown out the exhaust.
Top off both fluids and watch the levels. The diaphragm can be changed with the transmission still in the car. Also if you remove the metal vacuum line where it attaches to the intake, you will most likely find some tranny fluid in the tube.
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Tosh, Do I detect a PPP - Poorly Pagoda Peregrination?? There's peregrination in Pagodaland??
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If his Pagoda is so Poorly, it would be Perambulation in his case!
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Oh dear... I'll not make any more jokes... today, was in a rush to get everything prepared for tomorrow. Got fuel, thought I checked that the fuel-cap was on properly, drove off. When I got home 20km's later, no more original fuel cap. Retraced my steps. Couldn't find it, but most of the roads I drove were alongside water... have a stupid emergency plastic cap now.
Feel really stupid, dumb, and a lot of money poorer. Will retrace steps again later...
If anyone has a spare fuel cap and is turning up tomorrow in Belgium, you can probably sell it to me!
Peter
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no more original fuel cap.
So sorry...every time I read about this sad story (which seems to repeat itself far too often) I'm happy I have an ill-fitting rubber gasket on mine which forces you to really spend some time with it getting it back on...if mine went on easy I'd probably be in the same position as this many in the "lost gas cap" club. This is a club I do NOT want to join! >:(
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I have read these sad stories as well certainly sympathize with those folks that have lost their gas/petrol caps. Mine still has the original cork seal and fits nice and snug and "clicks" into place. I always lock it after filling the tank and rotate the cap so that the star is at the top. Too bad there is not someway to fit a tether to these caps. Hope you find it Peter.
John
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Drove my route twice, once on my own, second time as a passenger. Not found the cap.
Peter
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Probably too late its already on ebay ;)
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Sorry to hear about the fuel cap Peter,
Using a bit of grease or graphite on the tank side of the cork gasket keeps the cap working smooth and easy. I noticed that the new cork gaskets from Mercedes have graphite already on one side. The cap side should have some fuel resistant adhesive applied before the first installation.
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Finally, an update... It's taken a while for a variety of reasons. The mechanic has had a few days digging around the engine etc and we have found
- a leaky diaphragm in the vacuum tube from the transmission which has been replaced but we still have oil in #6 making it foul up
- low compression in all cylinders but 3 is the worst - nothing above 130 even when warm and as low as 90 when cold
- a knocking noise from somewhere deep-down in the engine that I first noticed when we were running on only 5
One option would be to run it and see if the oil in #6 dried up and burned off - it's certainly fouling less than before so we may have cured it that way (thanks Joe) but we also may not. The compression figures are not stellar and we are all a bit worried about the knocking noise SO
The engine is being pulled, broken open and put back together again
It may be overkill as I can clearly run on those compression numbers and the oil in the top of 6 may well burn off in time and clear. Or it may not. And as for the knocking... so rather than risk where we are now happening at the start of summer (or, August?), we made the call to pull it and see what we have while I in particular am in no hurry for it back!.
Thanks all for the input. I'll update as and when I know what we find...
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Ouch James! Think you made the right call, at the moment it may be just knocking but if you ran it hoping it to go away you might end up with a hole in the side of your engine!
Neil