Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: Dinoangel on August 27, 2012, 18:04:17
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Hello friends, I´m from Peru. I have a 230sl 1964 fuel injected automatic. I think my case is the opposite of the friend Gagsmerc. Every morning I start up my car and that operation is ok. Then I put up the drive march and goes ok the first time and the second and the third. But when the engine begins to warm my problems start. When the car is stopped and I try to get it going by pushing the gas pedal, there is no response and seem that the engine is going to drown, sometimes even I hear one or two explotions. After that every thing goes normal. There is no smoke in the tail pipe.
Please, help me.
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Sounds like a defective fuel pump or the warm up device may not be working right. There is often more than one problem so you will need to test each system seperately.
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Thank you for your reply Benz Dr. Its clear to me your recommendation about de warm up device but it´s not so clear the theme of the fuel pump, could you tell me why do you think I could have a problem in that item?
Thanks again.
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If the previous suggestions fail, check your plug wires. I had a similar problem with running fine cold and then miss-fire and bad running as soon as the engine warmed up a little. After checking many other things, it turned out that the little resistor at the end of the coil wire had failed - the wire looked fine until I pulled the end out of the distributor cap, and then all was obvious.
Regards -- Roger
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Thanks for your reply Roger, I`ll check my plug wires.
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Dinoangel, spend some time reading this forum. You'll find plenty of information here on how to go through the basics and beyond. You must do this before deciding that you have a "problem".
Be methodical, take notes and take your time. These cars are actually very simple to work on but they are of a generation where a multitude of things can need adjusting, fettling, aligning or setting up.
If there's a problem with a modern car you WILL have to change a part but not with these babies. Spend some love and time on her and she will reward you.
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Thanks for your reply stickandrudderman, that sounds like poetry y I like it. I'll follow your advice and dedicate more time to reading the forum topics.
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The "coughing" through the intake of the engine when the car is hot is most often a result of lack of fuel or fuel pressure. As you describe, these may sound like mini "explosions", in the engine compartment.
A "split linkage" injection mixture test can confirm this.
Check and replace the main fuel filter first if it is dirty.
Make sure all tune up items are correct, do the engine "linkage tour"
If the problem persists, check the fuel pressure, and fuel pressure volume. If the fuel readings are not up to specs, check the fuel screen in the fuel tank and the fuel screen in the intake of the electric fuel pump. They can be clogged.
If all items above are correct, check the fuel pressure check valve, at the discharge on the IP.
Lastly if the engine still runs lean, richen up the injection pump.
Keep us up to date!
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Thanks Joe, you gave me a good homework, so hands to job, I'll keep in touch.
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Dear friends, I have good news. Two days ago, after doing my homework and reviewing the recommended topics, I decided to check the warm running device. So I disconnected the hose that sends air from the WRD to the intake manifold. Then I started the car from cold and noticed that the WRD launched a considerable amount of air. Combustion was not good due to lack of air into a cold engine but that was not my goal. After ten minutes the engine heated and two things happened: first, it dropped to almost a half the amount of air coming out of the WRD, but continued the air out, and second, the greatly improved engine combustion. Then stop the engine and I removed the WRD. The air filter was acceptably clean. I waited to cool the heat sensor and then I measured the length of the pin at the bottom. Then immersed the heat sensor into warm water at 180°F and measured the new length of the pin. The difference was 4 millimeters. Furthermore, we note that the valve that closes the passage of air needed a boost of 5 millimeters to be completely closed. We lacked 1 millimeter. After cleaning the WRD decided to mount it again, but separating it 1 millimeter from the top of the IP for what we use two shims of 0.5 mm each. The results, the original fault has almost disappeared. I will continue with my homework and I will check, one by one, the issues that you guys have recommended. I would like to thank Benz Dr., Roger (rogerh113), Stick (stickandrudderman) and Joe Alexander (ja17) for the help you gave me, I´ll keep in touch.
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I think I'd be speaking for everyone when I say, your welcome.