Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: Jkalplus1 on July 31, 2012, 16:48:10
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1- At rest, idling, I have to gently apply upwards pressure, and then the gear lever goes into first. It does not go engaged into first all the way through without resistance. Are we all the same?
2- How long does it take you to shift gears? I am used to driving standard cars that are not expensive classics, so I can shift gears in a fraction of a second when used to the particular car. Sometimes not even need to touch the clutch pedal going from 3rd to 4th when the RPM is right (VW Jetta). Never burnt a clutch or damaged a transmission in over 20 years.
I am still cautious like an old grandmother with my SL, because I don't want to break anything. Is it safe to shift gears fast on these cars, provided you know to have the right rpm and clutch pedal play? In my mind, it should not be anymore damaging than a regular, slow gear change. If anything, better because the time pressure is released and reapplied is shorter, therefore less friction and wear? I like to drive the car like the guys did when they were new. If I wanted to drive an AMC Rambler I would have bought one. Thoughts on this?
J
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I would say most of our cars are the same, what I do is go in to second gear and then to first, or give the gas pedal a quick tap before shifting, you'll notice it will go in to gear much easier. specially in to 1st gear.
Shaun
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OK, I do that too and it works. And since my gearbox was redone, I can assume it is normal for our cars, and not a botched gearbox overhaul job, thanks.
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No I don't think there is any thing wrong with your gearbox, I have two cars with standard gearbox and they both react the same way. Don't forget these were designed over 40 years ago.
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I don't have an issue really, but it does slip into first easier as the transmission warms up.
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The 5 speed box is a different animal. It's doesn't like cold weather and shifts quite nicely this time of year. Much more notchy than the 4 speed box due to the way the rails work and the steel syncros. The 4 speed box has brass alloy syncros and they really make for smooth shifting.
To test wether or not a syncvro is working while doing a rebuild, drop it on the cone of the gear that's not working and give it a small twist. If it turns with a small amount of pressure applied, it's not any good. A good syncro will turn slightly and lock in place with pressure applied. I also try another gear if I have a spare because the cone on the gear can also wear. I find that first gear is often worn due to the amount of pressure required to make the teeth on the syncro line up. This is on the down shift of course because the car isn't normally moving when you put it in gear to drive off.
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These 4 speed trans are smooth but not paticularrly fast.
1. Make sure you have the right oil in there. A common mistake is to fill them with 90 gear oil when they require ATF. The wrong oil can make it harder to shift and damage the needle bearings inside.
2. Make sure your cluth is properly adjusted and separates fully when youu depress the pedal. There is an adjustment down at the slave cylinder.