Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: Cees Klumper on June 15, 2004, 17:31:29
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The pully on the power steering pump is typically on very tight, due to the conical (word?) shaft it is on. Removing the large nut is no problem, but getting the pulley off is a real hassle. What is the best way of getting it off ? [:(!]
Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic
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Hello Cees,
You need to buy another new tool to add to your collection. The pully has a very fine groove in the hub near the centershaft. There is two piece extractor that is inserted into this groove on each side which is then secured in place by bolts. This device is then pulled liked any wheel pull to remove the pully. Do not try to use a wheel pull on the pully edge. It is too soft and you will simply bend it. You need to use the hub groove and a proper extractor to get it off.
Good luck
Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed
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Thanks Jeff. Any idea where I might be able to find this tool?
This is probably what you are referring to?:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=50379&item=2389719090&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V
It's always nice to find out about a tool that I am missing - saves me some thinking when it's birthday time again!
Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic
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I just went to a garage supplies place with the pump + pulley. After they looked at it they claimed it would not be possible to remove the pulley with one of those 'inside' pullers and I tend to agree with them. They advised to use WD40 (let sit for some time) and HEAT.
Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic
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I can't tell fron the picture if the tool is the same as mine. You absolutely can pull the pully with my tool. Not sure whay you mean by 'indside' puller. Can you see the groove on the pully hub? I'll find a better picture of the tool for you. Give me an hour or so.
Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed
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Cees,
You can find the pully remover that I used at the following site. It resembles a bearing separator. Hope the picture helps. Look for part # M0006
www.sirtools.com/mercedes.htm
Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed
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Cees--Whatever you do, don;t use heat--you'll burn up that main bearing seal and your pump will leak--ask me how I know--George Des
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Thanks guys - I will get the M0006 tool !
Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic
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Cees,
When you get the price will you please post it.
It looks like some of these special tools are almost unreasonably high priced. I just payed $73 (including $15 for shipping) for the Hazet valve adjust crowfoot. The M006 tool looks very neat. It took some time though before I understood where to put it.
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) tool.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/knirk/200461721645_tool.jpg)
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I managed to get my pully off by use of a three arm puller with just a lite torque while tapping gently. Many of you out there must have done this without the tool many times. How did you do it without bending the pulley?
Per G. Birkeland
69 280 sl aut 834
Norway
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Using the M0006 tool to remove the power steering pulley, the pulley is so stuck that the bolts thru the bracket that grips the pulley are beginning to bend. Got PB all over it. What to do? Keep going? Before anyone asks, yes, I have removed the end nut.
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Hello,
Remove the nut and lock washer. Re-install the nut until it is just flush with the end of the shaft. Apply a little pressure with two wood boards or wedges on each side of the pulley (not enough pressure to bend anything). Smack the nut and end of the shaft with a plastic hammer. It's worked the last thirty years for me.
The nut being on the end of the shaft protects the shaft and the threads.
The early 230SLs are more difficult the shaft is straight.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
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It would be really nice if there was a way we could rent these special tools to each other.
Pete S.
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I'm a cave man so I use heat. I put a puller on the pulley and tighten it but not enough to bend anything. I heat the pulley hub until it pops off.
Since most are leaking to begin with I'm not worried about replacing the front seal. Let everything cool off slowly and no damage will be done. Use lots of anti-sieze during assembly.
In my line of work I can't afford to break things nor can I afford to be held up during dissasembly. I use heat often around the shop during tear down. The trick is knowing where to use it, how much to use and when to try a different aproach.
Use what works for you with the aproach that there might be a better way and adapt as required.
Dan Caron's
SL Barn
benzbarn@ebtech.net
slbarn.mbz.org
1 877 661 6061
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Just to follow-up, I got the pulley off.
I tried the M0006, but it started to bend.
Joe Alexander's technique didn't work for me.
Then my local Benz guy (independent mechanic) lent me this tool:
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) pspuller.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/AWOLFF280SL/2008131194336_pspuller.jpg)
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It worked easily. (He smiled when I showed him the M0006)
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AWolff,
Did you happen to write down a brand and model number for that tool?
Ray
'68 280SL 4-spd Coupe
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I did a quick search. Here is a good one from OTC tools.
http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1/page_3546_127/otc_power_steering_pumpalternator_removerinstaller.html
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The puller I used has a MB part # 108589023300. Probably more $
than the one Shvegel found from OTC tools.
Andy
Sarasota, FL