Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: erickmarciano on March 28, 2012, 19:00:32
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Hi guys
With no compensating washer , when I torque the bottom nut to 65 the spindle does not move freely
Should I just torque it to 40 and lock the nut?
Thanks
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Hello Erick,
I would be concerned that the slotted thrust washer at the top, may have gotten out of sync with the pin. If so, then the crushed pin will give you a false binding.?
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good point will have to take it all apart again >:( >:( >:( >:(
Just did it. You were right as usual. The pin in now crushed and flush
Is this pin really necessary ? Or do I have to find another spindle
Thanks
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Most of them that I have apart are already sheared off so I wouldn't worry about the pin.
I've seen this pin in some king pin kits but not in the ones I've been getting lately. I don't know how you would remove it anyway since it's hardened steel.
I tend to use the medium thickness washer and tighten up the nut with a torque wrench until it just starts to bind or the wrench clicks. If it won't come up to the proper amount of torque then I try to use the thinner washer.
If it comes up tight with the thinner washer but there's still some end play, I'll go a bit tighter to try and take up any play. At some point you will really have the lower pivot very tight on the king pin so you will have to decide if you have it tight enough or if you will need to remove it. If you have it up to specs and it's quite loose then stop and take it apart again and use the thicker washer but try grinding a bit off of it so it will fit better.
Most of the time I simply tighten everything down until there's no end play and then I lock the nut in place. Never had one ever fall of or even come loose. I check all king pin nuts as part of a regular inspection. I also check the four screws that hold the lower control arm on to the sub frame. You'd be surprised how many are loose.
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Thanks for the response
No mater what washer i use i can't torque the nut to 65 lbs it is way to tight
At around 30 lbs with no washer it feels perfect . Can i just lock up the nut at 30?
Thanks
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I wouldn't do that - 30 bs isn't enough. Checkto see if the bushings are pressed all the way in. If there's some material sticking out on either end of ther casting this would be why nothing fits. You will have to remove anything that isn't flush with the main casting.
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Guys this is driving me crazy. Here it goes
Got a used spindle from a friend , pressed in new bushings put all back together and it still binds with no washer
Replaced the top thick washer with a thinner compensating one( the one on top of the grooved one)and now I am able to torque to 65
Is this ok?
Ps he gave me a 230 Sl spindle the 280 brake shield does not fit
Got to take it all off again.
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Hello Erick,
It must be variations in the king pin manufacturing. Another brand or original MB may work perfect. A thinner shim at the top is ok as long as it is hardened like the original. The grooves must be there channel oil to the upper part of the king pin. You can take the original grooved washer to a machine shop and have them precision grind the new washer as needed.
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The groved washer is still there .on top of the groved washer there should be the same one with no grove , i replaced that one with a compensating washer that usualy goes on the bottom.
This is ok?
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Six of one, half dozen of the other. What real difference is there if it's on the top or bottom?
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I don't think the compensating washers are hardened. You can compare them by slightly working each one on its side with file. May not be that big a deal in the first place.
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Maybe I didn't state that question correctly. My thoughts were more in line with positioning and not so much with the componets in question. I would assemble according to the way it's supposed to be done and not deviate from that.
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Dan if I assemble as Intended cant torque to 65 without it binding
The only way I could get 65 lbs is with a smaller compensating washer on top and no washer on the bottom
Thanks