Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: winston on February 01, 2012, 22:22:56
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Does , any one have or know of a 3.27 for sale ? Thanks , Paul
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There is one on e-bay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MERCEDES-REAR-AXLE-3-27-3-27-W111-W113-PAGODA-OLDTIMER-1961-1971-ZF-HIGH-PERF-/250982807764?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a6fbdb8d4
I don't know if it is a good buy or not.
Marcus
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Humm.... I just sold one for less.
I'm not sure where he figures your trans will wear out any faster in high gear. ??? On a standard trans, the power goes straight through with no gearing involved. Not sure on an auto but I suspect that statement may be bogus. :D
330 pounds seems a bit heavy. Maybe they really are that heavy but I never would have thought so.
You will probably need rear discs, pads, axle boot, seals and maybe bushings. The E brake cables will definately have to be changed to 113 units, LT & RT, because they're only used on disc brake 113's. If you are changing from drum brakes you should also get a brake force regulator. The car could spin out of control during brakng in wet or slippery conditions.
So, with all those parts and purchase price, you could be looking at well over $2,500.00 before you're done.
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Thanks , Jordan and Doc. Everybody talks about the pros of changing to a 3.27 , but are there any cons ?
Paul
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Speedometer error and slower 0 to 60 times. Speedometer can be changed to reflect higher axle ratio but the taller ratio is what you have.
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Other down-sides would be:
- A lot of work to make the swap
- Deviation from original configuration and parts
You get to decide how much they all mater to you.
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Additional cons:
Car accelerates slower in each gear.
Engine not allowed to rev freely at highway speed as it was originally designed (unless of course you drive faster than you would have with the original rear end). :D
These engines love to rev high, and when you let them do that for a little while, regularly, they run much better.
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::) I look at it this way: one person's con could easily be another person's pro --------- and the reverse of that, as well. I live in the land of freeways (Los Angeles) and my average speed (to keep up with most traffic) is 70-75 MPH, so a 3.27 RE ratio really would work for me. And further, if there's traffic, why would I care about how long it takes to get to 60?? If I lived in the hills or mountains, that would certainly be a horse of a different color.
Cheers, Hank
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Hello,
The high rpms do not bother me. However I do know a lot of owners who have switched to the 3.27 and I do not know of anyone who was sorry for doing so.
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... These engines love to rev high, and when you let them do that for a little while, regularly, they run much better. ...
A con, why? You can always drive in 3rd gear to the red line if you want!
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OK, Alfred, agreed, you can always run in 3rd at high revs if you want.
But, the acceleration is still slower in every gear.
Hey, he asked for cons, that is a valid one. ;)
Oh yea, by the way, a big con would be the expense and hassle of doing this (if your stock set up is functioning correctly).
And, as already mentioned, it is a deviation from original.
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I'm comfortable with the revs, too, but wanted to be able to get all the way through a largish intersection without having to shift while still somewhere in it. I started with a 4.08 in mine, as many of us do. A little math showed me that, starting from that ratio, the original ratios for european 113s -- 3.92 and 3.69 -- would only drop my revs by about 5% and 10%, respectively. The same calculation for the 3.27 yields very close to a 20% result. I drove smaller, higher-winding engines back in my youth and so don't miss the comfort that 2,000 rpm cruising gives to guys with the much more common V8 history, and the five and ten per cent gains didn't seem worth the time, expense and effort, so when I discovered that there was such a thing as a 3.46 ratio, I guessed that it would be the best to get me where I want to be ... and it sure is. 3.46 represents a 15% reduction in revs from the 4.08, which feels about right to my metallic partner and me. Yes, we do spend a lot of time in 3rd and below, just as we spend most of our time either in traffic or on the rolling, snakey blacktop where I'm not nearly skilled (or crazy) enough to have much need for fourth. When it does come time for five or six hundred miles of cruise to PUB, for instance, we're still around 4,000 and happy, eating up the miles. The pipes come into a really nice resonance around 3800-3900, too, don't they. ;~)
Downside: I was diligent and fortunate to find a nice 3.46 axle, Joe went through it and installed it beautifully, and it's great. BUT... I lost the 'Differential Vent Vomit' lottery. Some significant minority of swaps will not tolerate the removal of the external circulating tube without blowing all their lubricant out though the vent at the top of the center differential ring gear housing. That large U-shaped tube conflicts with the understructure of 113s, where there's less room than under the donor sedans. Removal is easy and neat. Most axles tolerate the U-tube-ectomy but those that do not make for a messy surprise and a serious risk to the health of the axle. It can be altered sufficiently to clear the understructure but that is much better done prior to installation, and it's tricky trying to predict just where and how to tweak it when it's out and clear of the car where it's most easily got at. Altogether an inconvenient situation, one which I cannot seem to solve myself nor have I gained any effective enlightenment from those much more experienced in such matters, several of whom I've polled thus far. Most unsatisfactory. ;~(
I continue in surprise and disappointment that this august body tolerates our inability to diagnose, predict and prevent these occurrences. Is a puzzlement. [Yul Brynner, King and I, 19...54? ah, i dunno]
Happy motoring all,
Denny
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Have a look at this thread re: diff vent seepage http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=9633.msg64934#msg64934
I was able to cure the seepage without cutting the frame by using a flexible hose
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Thanks, Andy, for a solid contribution to the situation.
Mine was more than "seeping"; it nearly emptied the axle in the first 5-600 miles.
I hope we can get to the bottom of it, make all of our installations routine instead of about three out of four. I've taken my rant on that topic over to the thread/link (with the excellent photos) you provided in your post above.
Winston - Best fortune with your swap, and especially, may it be one of the dry ones!
Denny
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oil can leak out under either end of the rubber boot if the ring clamps aren't tight enough
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Hey all,
As for this "other than the steel cooling tube" option, I'm now looking for additional approaches. I was directed to a local speed shop, where their focus is all manner of hose issues in high performance and racing applications for cars, boats and planes. These guys understand oil & gas, heat & pressure, and they deal in rubber & braided SS. What fun !!!
I'll post my findings very soon - but honestly - - I think I hit pay dirt !! :):)
BTW - we've got two threads that seem as though they should be married :)
Cheers, Hank
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And in that other thread (which seems to be dancing in lock step to this one), Benz Dr. (Dan C.) made some interesting points. Seems to me, that in our desire to "lubricate", we may be over filling to a fault.
What thinks ya??
Hank
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Good morning all,
As I am preparing to change the rear end on my 68 Euro 280 SL Automatic from 3.92 to 3.27, I have read with great interest this and other threads that are providing a wealth of information, including the pro's and con's of the conversion. Is there anyone who has changed and regretted the swithch even to the point of reinstalling the original rear end?
Thanks,
James
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:D
Not according to Joe, in post #8 (above). With 100% certainty in the validity of my decision, I pulled the trigger - and so my 3.27 will be delivered this Tuesday (can't wait - like when I was a kid at Christmas !!)
Cheers, Hank
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Hi all,
I'm throwing this one out - - because this simple issue, "simply" blows my mind !! OK, to my knowledge, "seems that" no one with a stock differential, has been whining about leaking, overly hot diffs or anything else. But for some (one or more reasons) some of our tribe are experiencing issues after changing from their stock unit, to (let's say - that which I'm about to do) a 3.27 from a donor 280SE/SEL 4.5 car. I'm not an engineer. But I'm curious beyond sanity, to find out why things happen - like, why these "seeping", "leaking" & "overly hot, weeping" issues seem to take place after some rear end change-over modifications - but not in all............ Hmmmmm
This shouldn't even begin to approach the level of "rocket science engineering" - and should be reduced to a simple question - with a simple answer. What is it: the viscosity? - - type or brand of rear end lube used (assuming we don't overfill)? Auto and Air racers have dealt with these issues for decades and have proven their worth. I believe the answer to this question/concept - has already been answered - - and shown, albiet, in a place and at a time, with which we are not familiar.
This one intrigues me!!! Hey - - I got metal tubes, I got rubber hoses and braided stainless steel "stuff" as well. I'm on it !! :):)
Be well, Hank
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I've been following the discussion on both threads with interest as I bought Brad's (Badali) 4.5 rear a few months back. At the moment getting the engine finished and into the car is a higher priority for me, but down the road the "new" rear is going in. I have to agree that there has to be a reason (maybe multiple) for the problem. Seems like Benz Dr may have hit upon it. Possibly what is needed is a repositioned metal tube (to work its cooling magic) rather than a non-metal tube that doesn't provide the cooling effect. I also agree that the lube used may have an effect and for those who don't have the problem - can you let the rest of us know what you guys are using. Ensuring that diff isn't overfilled, regardless of anything else, sounds like a key factor as well.
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using Redline 75W90 GL-5
after prolonged high speed driving, infrared thermometer reading 125degF on the diff in 70degF ambient temp
no vent seepage
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My 3:27 diff comes tomorrow and I can't wait to do this swap. Actually I can't wait to drive the car after the swap, the doing part I'm not looking forward to....It seems prudent to just do a flexible cooling tube before as opposed to once its in the car if it turns out to be a leaker. I will be doing this at a friends well provisioned shop with a lift, we hope to do it over a weekend and not have it tieing up the lift come Monday. So heres my question, does anyone have a list of the unusual or MB specific tools that maybe required? I dread getting it half way apart and not have the correct tool to finish the job. I read in an old post about someone buying a MB tool for this job (to use once) and loaning it to other members, and another guy who just fabricated one that worked fine. Any tool tips would be appeciated.
Thanks,
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You will need 113 E brake cables - the 108 cables are too long. You will also need to remove the calipers, rotors and all of the E brake parts to take the old cables off.
I'm doing a conversion right now and found that the end of the E brake cable was seized in the brake caliper carrier. We had to heat to red hot before it would come out so be prepared for such an adventure. I provided a new set of E brakes and springs because everything was either broken, missing, or rusted.
We also found that the boot, pinion seal, and axle seals were worn so those will be replaced as well. If you don't have the jig to install the trailing arm bushings leave them alone. The doughnuts at the end of the arms are easily replaced.
If you want to use the non split boot you will have to seperate the right axle tube. This isn't that easy to do but I've found that it comes apart better by knocking the shaft towards the rear. Inspect the bushings and if they're worn it's a good idea to replace them.
I have a MB tool that's used to check the bushing carriers. If they're straight, the tool will slide through the two bushings without binding. If it's not straight, and few are, we heat the axle and pull it back into alignment.
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I know this mercedes shop by me (the one that helped me with my 3.27 swap) has a complete already set up rear end: new seal, rebuilt brakes, swapped spring, and new parking brake cables ready to be put in sitting at the shop. I believe they did it for a customer repainted and all, and the customer punked out if you have questions they can help... email me for their number.
Bob
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Thanks for the tip Dan, my car is a 69 and has rear discs, so I'm hoping I can just swap all my calipers, rotors and cables right on to the new diff?
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That should work as long as you can get everything apart. Only the cables are different.
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If the new/used 3:27 diff has discs and my car has discs why would'nt my calipers with ebrake cables attached bolt right up? If not what cables would I need to order?
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You can use all of your old parts except the E brake cables. There's a LT and RT cable which are different lenghts and are 113 part numbers.
The small E brake shoes and assorted hardware can go together dry but I would use some anti-sieze on the adjusting wheel threads and the levers where the cable attaches to the levers. Use plenty of anti-seize on the cable end where it enters the brake caliper carrier. The cable ends are usually siezed so badly that I have to use a lot of heat to get everything apart.
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I'm still confused. All of my rear disc brake components on my 69 280 sl are in perfect working order ie: rebuilt calibers, new rotors and clean and adjusted ebrake hardware, everything is rust free and works well including the ebrake cables. After replacing the diff and discarding the old brake parts and ebrake cables on the 108 axel, why can't my existing calipers etc. bolt right up to my new/used 108 diff using my 113 ebrake cables? ???
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Hello Ashley,
Your old W113 parts will bolt up and work fine.
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Thank you ja17......
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Uh.... that's what I was trying to tell you. Everything except the cables will fit and you can use all of your old parts. All you need to buy is 113 cables.
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Dan I don't think you're reading my question carefully, I HAVE 113 CABLES on my 113 car with disc brakes, and you keep saying I can't use them when I swap in the 108 diff. ??? ???
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Ah, yes. :-[ I missed that somehow, which isn't that hard for me to do.
I think I lost my reading glasses........ now where did I put them? ( CRUNCH!!! )
Never mind, I found them...... :'(
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:( Dan, you're not 20 years old . . . nor am I (73).
We didn't lose our reading glasses - - it's this "so miserably lacking" modern day way of communicating, where typing doesn't begin to cover the issues, and where nobody has any idea how anyone really feels about anything.
I truly hate this "techno" $hit !!! Sorry for the rant.......... I still love hearing a voice on the other end of the line.................
And now, may I modify my post 15 minutes later - - as I acknowledge the possibility that some people "can't talk comfortably" and so they type.......
Whatever, I guess I have to be OK with it :)
Hank
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I can't type - never will either. My wife, who can type vey well, is amused at how quickly I can put a post together, all by sight, with one finger. :D
I'm only 57, slightly blind, and can't hear you speaking when there's any back ground noise from a crowd. Too many years riding on an open tractor I'm sure.
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;D Hey Benz Dr.,
Film sound guy here (Tommy Boy) - I too, hate back ground noise, whether it be in real life or recorded.
Issue at hand - - A large number (all relative) of Pagoda fans, have already, or are in the process of changing from their stock rear end ratio, to the "lazy" 3.27 ratio.
I chatted at length with my tech today, and a very interesting element came up. It had to do with the validity of using the larger brake master cylinder of the 280SE 4.5, as opposed to staying with the stock 280SL unit. Apparently, the rear disc brake system on a 4.5 car, is a bit different (larger capacity) than that of the 280SL unit. So - - why do I bring this up? My tech informed me that in the past, he had completed this conversion from stock, to 3.27 and had also changed the master cylinder to the slightly larger 4.5 configuration. He said that his client never (in the past) felt that the stock brakes were "lacking", but after the conversion was completed, was amazed by how much more responsive and strong the brakes 'seemed" to feel.
Your thoughts ?........
Cheers, Hank
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Well,
The brake balance between front and rear is quite a delicate thing on the Pagoda due to its short wheel base and amplified effect of the mass transfer while braking. For example, the repartition valve in the back is different on Pagodas than on sedans. And the 4.5 does not have one at all.
Force is dependent on piston diameters. If they are the same on the 4.5 and the Pagoda rear callipers then they can be swapped. If not, I would keep the ones that were on the Pagoda originally (as a matter of fact I even believe piston diameter is bigger on the Pagoda callipers and their force is being limited above 30% pressure or something like that. The 4.5 doesn't have the pressure regulator so it compensates with smaller piston diameters. But this should be confirmed as I did not have both callipers side by side).
I'm not sure the 4.5 master cylinder is different from the Pagoda ones, or at least the piston diameter.
I believe the Pagoda brakes are largely sufficient for the Pagoda, in terms of power. But they may start fading if used intensively on a track or on a mountain road. So the first thing to do is to replace the pads with carbon-kevlar ones and the fluid by the blue one used by people who use their car on track days (higher boiling point), The second improvement would be to fit the front 3.5/4.5/6.3 vented discs together with back plate. If the 4.5 front calliper piston diameters are the same, then they should be used. If not, I believe the 4.5 callipers have a spacer in the middle to compensate for the wider disk. I would krack them open and transfer the spacer onto the pagoda callipers. I know callipers should never be opened but I did it in the past and the car is still doing very well. New bolts and seals may be adviseable.
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I have seen older posts -- not necessarily here -- that claimed the parts were available and the work could be done by ordinary, non-anointed folk. Even I got successfully through a little of that 'way back in another century on other marques with ATE calipers - - cracked them open but didn't replace the square-section O-rings due to the difficulty of getting past the No-No prohibitions to the parts source information. I was more easily intimidated then as well as besot with the positive outlook of the young, so just cleaned 'em up and went for it. ['Young and dumb then, old and wise now.' Sure: that's me.] I do think there are guys on wider Mercedes forums that have found sources for the little bits since then.]
BTW - I learned by misadventure a couple of years back that Porterfield's carbon-kevlar pads are available with a "T" suffix, indicating thicker pads -- and they were, and so of course 'wouldn't go', a considerable inconvenience at the time. I think I saw some indication of these for 600s &/or specials chasses in the '69 TDM, so they might be offered industry-wide and come in handy sometime in parts swapping/mating situations.
Denny
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Looks like we have mission-crept clear over by R&D. And there's "Low Rider Option"/Ride Height cooking along in Body, Interior, Paint, Chrome and Cosmetics and talking about suspension parts and geometry. Got to be a source of substantial PITA for Administrators, also a pity. I'm relieved it's over my paygrade. Does remind me to give thanks to and for our Administrators and Webmaster: gentlemen, kudos and gratitude for all the enabling - - doubtless on behalf of many, if I may say.
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Hey gang,
My new, long legged rear end is all coming together. My tech is using all necessary new parts, good parts from my 3.92 RE and the "goods" from the 3.27 donor diff. Should be finalized by mid next week. Will keep all of you interested parties, posted. :D
Cheers, Hank
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We just finished a 3.27 axle and one thing we did was to remove the vent from the top of the diff casing. I moved this over to the original area on the inner left exle tube found on any 113 car.
Working on a 6.3 last week, I noticed that the axle vent is located mid way on the right axle tube so the idea isn't without some consideration. The 6.3 ratio is something like 2.85 with about 450 foot pounds of torque so that axle could get hot with the kind of power you can put down.
If it woks on the 6.3 it should work on the 3.27 axle.
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interesting................ keep us up to date Dan.
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And while all this is going on, my tech has created an SS braided hose with modified AN fittings, to take the place of the cooling tube found on my donor 280SE/SEL 4.5, 3.27 rear end. I'll get all the numbers in order and will let you all know what our "cooling tube" approach will cost. There will be of course, NO markup for me because it's called "Pagoda SL Group Love" :D
I'll take pics of the tube/hose on the work bench and also after installation. I'll post them in this thread.
Cheers, Hank
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SS braided hose with modified AN fittings
I'd be doubtful of a ss braided hose being able to replicate the cooling properties of s straight steel hose.
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I recently got my 69 280SL 4 spd back on the road after a 3:27 swap and I am really happy with the results. It feels like a whole different car. Its absoulutly the best improvement you could make to one of these cars, I chose to plug the holes for the cooling tube, finding a shop to make a flexible tube was more difficult then I thought so I hope I don't lose the vent vomit lottery.... I made extra sure the axels were level and diff oil was slightly below the fill hole. I guess only an extened road trip will tell, did 25 miles yesterday and no barfing out the vent so I'm hoping for the best. Now that its quiet at speed its time to upgrade to an ipod jack and new speakers. :)
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Hi Colin,
I believe I understand your logic. My feeling is: "it's better than no tube at all". Of course, here (could be) the perfect opportunity for someone to strike a pattern for a hard tube with proper fittings that would be sympathetic to a 4.5 (3.27) rear end, mounted in W113. I suppose I could do a finished, tube product, if you guys would like me to.
This is such a perfect example of the value of the following thought: "God, if I only had". When you find yourself saying that, you just may have invented something.
Yo........ you want a tube? I can make you a tube. Watch this...presto.....you're a tube!!!
Cheers all, Hank
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I have my doubts it's even needed.
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I'm with the Dr.
Initially I tried to have a cooling tube in place but all I got was leaks so I plugged it and have not had any heating or leaking problems. Reading old links and there are many over the years, it appears to really be a hit and miss both on fitting one with out knocking bodywork and or leaking.
I could not find anyone on the Forum who had any problems after using plugs.
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I’m one of those who had problems with plugging the cooling tube holes and they were pretty dramatic. When I first fitted my 3.46 axle I plugged the holes and oil leaked from the breather very badly neatly rust proofing the entire rear end and fuel tank in the first couple of miles. I tried many different types of flexible hose but, for me, there just wasn’t enough room to give satisfactory clearance between the body and prop shaft during long suspension travel over rough surfaces. As a result I had the chassis altered to make room for the standard tube and all leaks were immediately cured and there’s sufficient clearance even on maximum suspension load.
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I take back not knowing anyone who had problems with plugs.
I would suggest try the cheapest solution first then work your way up.
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Cheapest is to use a BFH to make room for the original tube. By carefuly hitting the hedge of the chassis rail there is a way to shape it nicely, threat it against rust and recoat the area with blackson.
Most elegant is to shape a pipe that clears the chasssis rail.
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I'm not going to cut up a car to satisfy a problem with a simple solution. I've provided that answer and no one seems to be listening. :( Move the vent tube to the original position when you have the axle out of the car. We used the smaller sized vent from a 280SL axle. After looking at the size of the one on ther 4.5 it's little wonder why oil spews out when it gets hot.
Placing the vent on the side of the diff housing reduces the chance for oil to come out. The 6.3 should run hotter than a 4.5 yet nothing comes out of the vent that's placed right on the axle tube.
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;D Hey folks,
The 3.27 is in - along with new B. shocks (all around), bushings, pucks, seals, wheel bearings, etc, etc. Pics also of the new cooling tube with custom fittings. The next few that we make will be even lighter and with "cooler" fittings - AND NO MODIFICATIONS AT ALL.
Ingrid is now truly a joy to drive. Yes, if starting off in the normal second gear of Auto, she's a bit of a slug in town. Well, we just hand select 1st, and all is OK. On the freeway, the difference is absolutely amazing. As I was blending in with FW traffic, I wanted to see how the kick down worked while changing lanes and getting past an 18 wheeler - - Woo-Hoo !!! Now the kick down is there, when and where you would probably most need it! IMHO, this is the way MB should have done it all along.
A huge thanks to Dominic & Vicente @ EUROSPORT in Burbank, CA. Their attention to detail is beyond description !!!
Will keep you all posted on cooling tube progress, in a new thread called (drum roll) "3.27 Cooling Tube" :):) - soon..........
Cheers, Hank
BTW, the post below, posted by me, is a mistake. I couldn't find a "delete function.
H
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Hank,
is there a fitting behind the universal holding the hose?
Garry
PS Deleted your double post.
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;D Thanks for taking care of that little "delete" issue. Yes, there is a fitting - and it's just for insurance.
Cheers, Hank
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GCR, What is 'blackson'?
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GCR, What is 'blackson'?
It is undercoating :
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Hi .................. Ingrid's first 100 miles on freeways around Los Angeles with our new 3.27 rear end, were absolutely spectacular !! Sure, with an auto tranny that starts in second, she's a bit slow off the line. But if I need to leave the line more rapidly, I just put it in first and then do the manual shifts.
Key here (for me), is that at freeway speed, I'm 800+ RPMs lower than with the original 3.92 ratio.
Cheers, Hank
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Giggle - giggle :D OMG!! This new rear end ratio is blowing me away. In town, I now start out with my auto selector in first. It puts me more in touch with the performance capabilities of the engine. So, I can start out rapidly if I choose - - but once on the freeway, it's truly a cruise !! :D
Cheers, Hank
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Just put a new vent on my 3.27 rear end and it is dripping oil. (Not overfilled) Today I ordered all of the fitting (As pictured in an earlier post) to make up a new bypass tube. I had the tube removed and holes all blocked off for years. Never really paid attention to it until this post. My old vent was all clogged up so it never leaked.
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I am about to have my rear end changes to to the 3.27 from the 3.92. I know that Hank Sound's mechanic is still perfecting his flexible replacement tube, but until it becomes available, I am thinking about plugging the holes as others have suggested. my question is what are people using to plug the holes left after removal of the rigid cooling tube on the 3.27? After installation on the car will the plugged holes be accessible to have a flexible tube added in the future if it is necessary? Without the tube, will my car be less capable of longer drives because of a heating issue in the rear end? Thanks for all of the help.
James
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James -
The holes plug neatly and simply with drain plugs. I blush to admit I'm not sure of which ones, but it may even be all three: engine, transmission and differential; the ones that work take a 14mm Allen/hex wrench screw quite nicely into the holes left by removal of the cursed tube. [I'm just now realizing I've never actually verified the donor locations for the plugs, but our veteran members will know without having to give it a thought.] But it is simple and tidy and accessible for later changes with axle assembly installed.
The consensus amongst our wise heads is that overheating, with our cars having significantly less horsepower and weight battling it out, is not going to be a problem.
My experiences with oil blowing out the vent and the good Benz Dr's recent calling to our attention an improved location for the offending vent leaves me wishing I'd had your opportunity to try installing that modification prior to putting in my 3.46 axle. Even better, before re-assembly during your inspection and refreshing of whatever's necessary in the donor axle. Drilling and tapping in that location on the assembled axle is only practical with it out of the car, and then best done by someone with considerable practical experience due to the potential for sprinkling nasty chips of iron inside the works.
Tube removal and plugging is simple. In fact, it begins to look like all you might have do to avoid the distressing barfing of the 90wt. is to refrain from cleaning (clearing) the vent assembly.
[No, I don't seriously suggest anyone employ that as a permanent solution, but it does begin to look like it may be the explanation for the otherwise apparent randomness of these occurrences.]
I think the Dr's onto something good here. Well, it is a bit of early days but through my dim and distant glass it appears an elegant diagnosis and remedy, so I am in hopes the bugger's vanquished.
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I just did what Dan suggested regarding the vent. I did it on a disassembled wheel tube and I got metal chips inside it. I don't know how one can avoid it. I wouldn't take any risk as these metal chips fall right next to the diff bearing with potentially heavy consequences once they get inside the bearing. It's a good occasion to disassemble the wheel tube and check all bearings anyway. It's not complicated and it's just a matter of bolting it back with new sealant if everything checks in good shape.
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Did you see this item on the SLS catalogue?
As far as I understand German, it looks like a 3.25 replacement gear , requiring "modification" of the diff case (?)
Any thoughts?[http://www.sls-hh-shop.de/index.php/cat/c3_Mercedes-Benz-230SL-250SL-280SL-Pagoda--R113-W113-.html#cat_120 (http://www.sls-hh-shop.de/index.php/cat/c3_Mercedes-Benz-230SL-250SL-280SL-Pagoda--R113-W113-.html#cat_120)
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Does anyone have the P/N for the drain plugs to coved the holes left after removal of the tube?
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I had it apart when it was drilled but you could use some grease which will hold the chips from falling into the axle. Use the smaller vent found on a typical 113 axle and not the larger one found on a 4.5
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Did you see this item on the SLS catalogue?
As far as I understand German, it looks like a 3.25 replacement gear , requiring "modification" of the diff case (?)
Any thoughts?[http://www.sls-hh-shop.de/index.php/cat/c3_Mercedes-Benz-230SL-250SL-280SL-Pagoda--R113-W113-.html#cat_120 (http://www.sls-hh-shop.de/index.php/cat/c3_Mercedes-Benz-230SL-250SL-280SL-Pagoda--R113-W113-.html#cat_120)
hello,
information you found?
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I've been told that these gear sets from SLS, are actually, physically smaller in size than the V-8 gears, but they are the same ratio. They will fit in your original differential housing, after a machining operation, so you change out the gears only and keep your original rear axle assembly.
The downside is the expense of the gears, the cost of the machining and the very complex procedure to set-up the gears.
Joe Alexander (ja17)
Blacklick, Ohio
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I've been told that these gear sets from SLS, are actually, physically smaller in size than the V-8 gears, but they are the same ratio. They will fit in your original differential housing, after a machining operation, so you change out the gears only and keep your original rear axle assembly.
The downside is the expense of the gears, the cost of the machining and the very complex procedure to set-up the gears.
Joe Alexander (ja17)
Blacklick, Ohio
Joe,
you're getting soft in your old age. ;)
Imagine; you giving advice that's more work and complication than it's worth...........
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Hello Dan,
Actually, one learns to work "smart" as time passes. It minimizes the hard work!