Pagoda SL Group

W113 Pagoda SL Group => Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items => Topic started by: 69280sl on October 13, 2011, 18:45:40

Title: Softtop compartment seal installation
Post by: 69280sl on October 13, 2011, 18:45:40
Just received my new replacement seal , thanks Dave Gallon. At the ends of the "horse shoe",(picture) the seal channel is very narrow. Is it necessary to straighten out the sheet metal and re-crimp it after the new seal is in, or is it possible to stuff the new seal into the channel? Any other tips and suggestions are appreciated.

Gusftp://
Title: Re: Softtop compartment seal installation
Post by: IXLR8 on October 13, 2011, 21:11:16
Hi

I think you'll find that the narrow area is only external as the channel goes under the outside skin. The sheet metal flange should be straightened as it sometimes will be bent, but the seal will fit under the skin.

Joe
Title: Re: Softtop compartment seal installation
Post by: 69280sl on October 13, 2011, 22:14:04
Thank you Joe.

Gus
Title: Re: Softtop compartment seal installation
Post by: ja17 on October 17, 2011, 12:33:16
This gasket gets a lot of abuse. Be sure to clean the groove well. Also clean the new rubber with some alcohol since a mold release agent may still be on the new rubber part. Use the MB black weather strip adhesive or the black 3M weatherstrip adhesive.
Title: Re: Softtop compartment seal installation
Post by: Ulf on October 17, 2011, 12:42:41
here is a thread with do's (others) and don'ts (mine): http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=14671.msg100228#msg100228
Title: Re: Softtop compartment seal installation
Post by: 69280sl on October 17, 2011, 14:53:11
Here's what worked for me:

I ended up widening the channel in the crimped area a little bit, sliding the seal in from the rear to the front, and then re-crimping. Do the crimped section on both sides first (be sure the seal is straight up along its entire lenght before glueing anything). Then glue the middle of the seal at the bottom of the "U". There is a mold mark that allows lining up with the center of the top retaining pin. After this adhesive cures it is easy to glue the rest of the seal into the channel on both sides of center. Worked fine for me but if someone has a better way that's great .

When removing the old seal, I found it works best to poke something that won't gouge or scratch the paint under the seal and then levering up while moving along. Something like opening the top of a tin can. I had tried pulling up on the old seal with pliers but all I got was pea sized pieces. Would have taken forever.

To remove the old adhesive I got weatherstrip adhesive remover  from 3M. I thought since they make the adhesive, I would use their remover. Seems to be a citrus product. Possibly any citrus degreaser would work as well at less cost. To get the little "stick ons", a minature BRASS wire brush in a rotary (dremel) tool makes short work of it.

Gus