Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: Iconic on April 03, 2011, 13:56:02
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Is replacing the engine mounts as "simple" as:
Do one side at a time.
Loosen 3 bolts on mount.
Properly support engine (and car).
Remove 3 bolts.
Raise engine slightly (I know to be careful of interference with fan and fan shroud).
Replace mount.
Are there any things I need to look out for?
Thank you,
Mark
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Hello Mark,
Some other minor tips..............
Make sure you have a 6mm allen tool to remove the two small bolts. If these bolts are damaged, stuck or rusted you could be in for a battle. Clean all dirt and grease out of the socket heads of these bolts before you begin.
When re-installing the mount, install the hardest to reach 6mm allen screw first (do not tighten all the way), next install the large 19mm bolt (do not tighten), lastly install the last 6mm screw (some prying and pushing may be required and you may need to lower the engine on the mount somewhat). Tighten all bolts up, and remove the jack.
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Thanks Joe.
That was exactly what I was looking for.
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Isn't it a good idea to also replace the trans mount at the same tiime? Don't ask me how -- just recall that when I had the engine mounts replaced, that one was done too.
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I agree, that is generally a good idea.
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Thank you James and Jaco.
I plan on doing the transmission and differential mounts too, but I am going one step at a time.
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I did this job very recently. Mine were really shot as you can see. Here is a photo of new versus old.
Larry in CA
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Larry, mine aren't as bad as yours, but they need to be replaced.
I'm having trouble accessing 2 of the 4 allen head bolts.
Can someone tell me what the tool of choice is? (I have a 6mm Allen head for a 3/8 inch ratchet. I can't seem to get it into two of the bolts.)
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Hi--
I used a long (6 to 8 inches) allen wrench, placing the short side into the bolt head.
A bit of a blur now, but I seem to recall undoing those "hidden" allen bolts by coming up on them from below.
This was another of my two hour jobs that took a day.
Joe
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Yes, as Joe suggests it may be easier for some to work from below. Try removing the front wheels and go in from the side. Jacking the engine a bit will also give more room. Be careful and safe !
It can be done from above, but it depends on your tool selection and ability. Using a simple allen wrench to break the bolts loose can work well. After the bolt is broke loose a small ratchet can speed things up. "Wobble" type extensions are handy when working from above. The "ball tip" allen tool is also a handy item once the bolt is broke loose.
Let me know if you need some pics of these tools.
Joe Alexnder
Blacklick, Ohio
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No pictures needed. I know what you and the other Joe are talking about exactly.
Sometimes I just get in a rut and need a little help just like this.
I'm sure I'll get it the next time.
I think I got lucky I was able to loosen the big bolts !!
Thank you to both of you.
Mark
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OK folks, I need a little encouragement again.
I've got the bolts for one mount removed. ;D
The car is safely on jack stands and the engine is being lifted by a floor jack with proper oil pan protection.
I don't seem to have enough clearance to get the old engine mount assembly out (assembly = mount, plate, "grommet", and lower bolt).
I am supposed to remove the assembly out all at once, correct?
The engine seems to be as high as I should lift it.
What am I missing? ???
It sure feels good to be working on it again.
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Hello
Make sure to have the jack off set to one side of the pan so that the engine lifts mostly from the side you are working on.
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Joe, That did the trick, THANK YOU. I was lifting from the center of the engine. When I put the jack to the side I am changing, as you suggested, I had the clearance I needed.
Now I'm letting paint dry on the plate that I am not replacing.