Pagoda SL Group

W113 Pagoda SL Group => Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items => Topic started by: JamesL on March 26, 2011, 21:00:17

Title: Thanks all!
Post by: JamesL on March 26, 2011, 21:00:17
I have been feeling adventurous (for me) and am ham fisted to say the least.

This week got new A-pillar seals, and window whispers and in just over two hours this evening have had the door card off, adjusted the drivers (RHS) window so it now fits flush with my new A-post rubber, cleaned inside the door, cut/fitted new whispers and put it all back together again.  ;D ;D I wouldn't have attempted it without the Tech Manual.

Tomorrow, the passenger side.

Question.... why are all the trim screws holding the chrome onto the door of different sizes? There's 2, maybe 3 different sizes on my door and it looks like this is deliberate

I have (long) lost my screw under the arm rest
Title: Re: Thanks all!
Post by: 66andBlue on March 26, 2011, 21:46:44
Hi James,
the screw under the arm rest is a lens head (oval) sheet metal screw DIN 7983 4.8 x 16 (or 20?) mm; it also needs a counter sunk washer.
As far as I know the screws in the door should be all the same.
Title: Re: Thanks all!
Post by: thelews on March 26, 2011, 22:03:04
As far as I know the screws in the door should be all the same.

They're not.  Different lengths and diameters.
Title: Re: Thanks all!
Post by: ja17 on March 27, 2011, 00:08:48
Hello,

Most likely the screw holes in your doors have become oversize and larger screws had to be used. Aluminum weld the over size holes closed and re-drill them is one solution.............One quick easy fix is to take some solid strand copper wire. Heavy electric cable like from an old pair of jumper cables. Insert a strand or two of the solid copper wire into the over size hole and start the original screw. when the screw head is nearly all the way down break off the copper wire and finish tightening the screw up ! If done correctly the screw and trim will tighten down fine and no copper wire is visible.

Title: Re: Thanks all!
Post by: 66andBlue on March 27, 2011, 05:09:35
They're not.  Different lengths and diameters.
Similar trim - same screw.
James,
here are the part numbers for the screws and their dimensions.
#86: & # 87:       lens head (oval) screw DIN 7983 (007983 003335)
            3.9 x 9.5 mm blunt end, Zinc (or Cadmium) plated
#115 & #116 & #117:   lens head (oval) screw DIN 7983 (007983 002203)
            2.9 x 9.5mm,  chrome plated
#105 & #106      flat head Phillips screw DIN 7982 (007982 002219)
            2.9 x 6.5 mm, Zinc (or Cadmium) plated
#88:   spacer, p/n 113 727 00 17 (dimensions approximately: 5.5 mm long - OD 6.0 mm - ID 4.8 mm)

I hope you didn't loose the spacers (#88) that protect the rubber seal - they are costly EUR 3.59 each.  :o
Let me know if you need them.  I have a piece of tubing with the same dimensions that I can mail you and you can cut it up and use.

I have used the copper wire trick and it works perfect -  thanks Joe!
Title: Re: Thanks all!
Post by: J. Huber on March 27, 2011, 05:49:56
Very nice Alfred. I just received a bunch of screws from Dave Gallon. As I am about to replace my door panels, thought I'd get the screws back to uniform. I had quite a mish mash.

One question for Tosh or 66, how easy is it to change the felt whiskers? I think maybe I should do this while I am at it. My inner ones are pretty bad -- surprisingly, the outers look decent.

Oh and anyone want to suggest a good plastic lining for the doors?
Title: Re: Thanks all!
Post by: JamesL on March 27, 2011, 07:30:23
Easy enough if I can do it ;D

They come in set lengths and need cutting down to length (approx 20cm off with a hacksaw) and the difficult part was getting the old trim off the clips on the door tops, and then getting the new one seated properly. I took off all the clips and cleaned up while I was there and the clips took a tap with a mallet to get back into place - as did the whispers

For removal I used a flat blade screwdriver and a piece of plastic on the door top and levered up. The toughest part was working out how to get the outer chrome trim off the door top. It just lifts upwards (off the same clips)
Title: Re: Thanks all!
Post by: JamesL on March 27, 2011, 11:34:50
Top Tip:

In the process of removing the door panel, be sure to "lock" the door. Otherwise, when the panel breaks free as you pull it upwards, it can catch the interior lock and break it off

Go on, ask me how I know :P

I need a new interior locking mech/switch, and a washer for the window winder (missing).  ::)
Title: Re: Thanks all!
Post by: thelews on March 27, 2011, 14:23:22
I thought the statement was for the whole door.  You show different lengths and diameters for the different pieces and that is true.
Title: Re: Thanks all!
Post by: 66andBlue on March 27, 2011, 17:05:15
I thought  ...
Sorry, I don't always understand what YOU think. How about being helpful and providing some numbers or dimensions next time, then I will understand.  :)
Title: Re: Thanks all!
Post by: thelews on March 28, 2011, 15:27:36
Sorry, I don't always understand what YOU think. How about being helpful and providing some numbers or dimensions next time, then I will understand.  :)

How about you come to StarTech in Milw. and we discuss it?  Be great to meet you and you'd see and learn some great 113 specific stuff.  Not to mention, the opportunity to see my car.
Title: Re: Thanks all!
Post by: 66andBlue on March 28, 2011, 17:30:46
Thanks for the invitation.
I have looked over your car in detail when Vince Canepa owned it.
Hope to see you at PUB 2011, enrollment for students is still open.  ;D
Title: Re: Thanks all!
Post by: thelews on March 28, 2011, 17:33:55
Thanks for the invitation.
I have looked over your car in detail when Vince Canepa owned it.
Hope to see you at PUB 2011, enrollment for students is still open.  ;D

Glad you had a chance to see the car, it's a real peach!

Won't be attending PUB.  But, I'll be getting more than all the education I need at StarTech Black Forest by a variety of experts.  Joe should be amongst them.