Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items => Topic started by: searcher on February 14, 2011, 04:27:15
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Hi All,
Has anyone attempted to have the chrome pieces around the heater levers re-chromed? Can this be done? If so, how do you remove and replace the red and blue indicator buttons (wedges and arrow) on the pieces?
thanks in advance,
Jason
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Jason,
Yes, the chome around the heater levers is not a problem to re-plate. You simply need to carefully remove the little plastic arrows etc. and put them in a safe place. When the parts come back, use silicone, epoxy, super glue or something similar to replace them.
I actually re-plated ALL the interior chrome with the exception of the vanes on the fresh air vents. The vents themselves were re-plated, as well as the bezel, and the defrost flap. I actually completely dismantled (against better advice) these vents and it was just a stroke of good luck that it all went back together again. The vanes were a bit too small, too difficult to attach an electrode to, and too likely to lose one in the tank. But all else shines around them.
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Michael,
did you once post the details how to dismantle these vents for plating? I remember having read them somewhere but cannot find the topic.
It might be of help to Jason should he plan to do this.
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Yes, Alfred I probably talked about this before.
The right and left most chome trim items on the dash are those that hold the fresh air vent and defrost vent.
One of the photos here shows the louver assembly as removed from the trim. The other shows the parts that you can have replated--that is the base, the defrost flap, and the bezel.
FROM THE BACK, I believe a few tiny screws hold the louver assembly into the bezel, with a spring washer the size of the bezel. Remove those screws, and the louver assembly as a complete subassembly come off.
The louver assembly consists of 8 vanes, all different. There is a "C" shaped casting in which one end of the pins fit into. Two wires, springy, hold everything together.
To remove, you need jeweler's pliers, and carefully remove the wire. It is like a puzzle. Remove the wire on the other side. When you do, the louvers will "flop free". The wires hold it all together, provide tension. Unbelievable engineering.
You can then take it all apart, clean, polish etc. each vane. The pins are cast into each vane at the end and that's what they hinge on. Complex? You bet.
You need to take lots of detailed photos to determine how it all comes apart so you can get it all back together again.
No honest plater would try to re-plate those vanes, unless they had a small table-top set up. The potential for losing one in a tank is too great. I just replated the base; the bezel and the defrost flap, and spent a lot of time cleaning the vanes and polishing them by hand.
Removing the defrost flap is difficult. It pivots on a roll pin. You need an appropriately sized drift pin punch to drive it out. It is not easy. Once you get it out then you have the third piece that can be plated.
I was told by experience restorers NOT to do this. I did it anyway, and it was only by divine intervention that it all worked out. I would never do it again. Much simpler tasks on this car have failed miserably and I can not believe I actually did this. So, you have been warned--don't do it. But if you do, this information is as good as any out there.
Those vanes are the only chrome on my car that was not replated or replaced. SO, if you want to see some less than perfect chrome next time you see my car, amidst all the perfect shiny stuff, bring a magnifying glass and look at my fresh air vents. :(
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Hi Jason. If and when you do this -- maybe you could document the process. I'd be very interested in how it goes. My interior chrome is really quite decent relative to the car ... except ... those three pieces around the levers. The plating is peeling off. And when you choose a plater, how about the quote, timeframe, location, etc?
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I've taken my fresh air vents apart and had the vanes re chromed which came out very nice indeed and the plater managed to return all the parts. That said, Michael is correct in that it is a very daunting prospect and should not be undertaken lightly, in fact there was a time when I wished I hadn't started it. In the end I'm sure there was only one way everything goes back together and the order of the parts didn't prove top be a problem. The real issue was the delicate nature of the spring wire that holds everything together and the fragile tabs that are bent over to hold them in place. It was only after I had broken a couple of the tabs that I realised how careful you have to be so as long as you don't bend these too far back you will be fine and mine went back together in the end but it took a couple of delicate attempts and some sand paper on the vane pins which had grown following plating and wouldn't fit back in the guide arms at first. My recommendation is don't take them apart unless the pitting is quite bad but if this is the case don't be afraid just be very careful.
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Michael is correct in that it is a very daunting prospect and should not be undertaken lightly
in fact there was a time when I wished I hadn't started it.
My recommendation is don't take them apart unless the pitting is quite bad but if this is the case don't be afraid just be very careful.
I did not break any of those tabs, having a large magnifying glass and a set of jeweler's tools.
Indeed there is only one way it goes back together, and the daunting part is if you cannot figure that out: that's where the photos come in.
You had an interesting plater--mine did a LOT of plating for me, for a LOT of money but would not do these. He studied them carefully, even went as far as seeing if they could be re-cast in brass instead of the white/pot metal that they are. He tried to figure out the best place for the electrodes. He was squirming quite a bit and was relieved I took his advice.
Good that you did it, and its over--and neither of us would attempt it again...at least I would not. My thoughts kept drifting to "what if" something is lost or broken?
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I do remember my plater being very specific about not losing anything and he actually made hand sketches of all the parts and there were quite a lot, I did suggest he purchase a digital camera but he didn't like modern technology. There was a lot of discussion about supporting and holding the small parts especially the vanes and he did redo a couple of them as they proved quite difficult. Overall, I have had virtually all the chrome redone and it has come out very nicely indeed which is a good job as it cost a fortune.
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Just a note on installing those three pieces for the heater. Only tighten them enough to just barely flatten the wavy washer under the nut. Those studs on the back break off very easily.
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I wish I had been a bit more delicate with my reassembly. I broke two of the studs and I didn't think I was using much torque on the wrench. How did you repair yours? If welding back the broken stud did you have to re-chrome the piece.
Rwh
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Did the same thing, broke the one on the center piece years ago. I used JB Weld & its still holding.
Regards, Paul