Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items => Topic started by: Larry & Norma on August 14, 2010, 14:42:42
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I want to put some cavity wax into my sills. Where can I get some 10mm cavity plugs from? Rustbusters do them but want £8 postage for a 50p item!
Anyone know UK suppliers? Only need 4.
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www.frost.co.UK have a selection so that you can do the whole car,in the scheme of things not expensive.
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Don't they usually come with the wax product - I usually get a mix of different sixes in the lid of the spray can?
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Not in the UK as far as I know. You only get them with a complete kit. I have just bought a can or two at a time as I work my way around the car.
It is possible to get into just about every cavity without drilling except the sills I believe.
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Hello Larry,
Did you get your plugs?
I have got a quantity and could bring some on the Alsace jolly,let me know what you require.
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Hi Eric,
No I have not got any plugs yet as I was planning to do the job after the French trip. So I just need to do both sills.
So, say 2 each side, 4 in total. Looking forward to meeting you and everyone else very soon. Thanks.
Larry
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Hello Larry,
You should also consider doing the rear chassis frame from in front of the rear wheel,over the wheel arch and back to the rear,also the box section across the rear.
I will give you some info: of the amount of corrosion that i found and had to repair in the above area.
What diameter of plugs do you want?
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Standard 10 mm plugs will be fine.
When i get back from France i need to remove the heater matrix ( end bracket must have fallen off as it moves around ) so
I will take the opportunity to strip the interior again and add the cavity wax. If I remember correctly these other areas you
refer to have access holes already in the metalwork under the carpet and it was just the sills that were inaccessable.
Thanks once again Eric.
Larry
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Hi, Larry,
I think you will want more than 4 plugs for the sills.
The areas in the sill forward of the front jacking point and rearward of the back jacking point are (nearly) enclosed cavities in themselves. Then you've got the long section in between which may need two each...
Do your sills have drain holes at each end?
naj
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Hi Naj, Thanks for your input I had thought the sills were one big cavity. They have been replaced by a PO and
as far as I can tell there are drain holes each end - perhaps you can take a look and advise in France?
Eric if you are 'listening' I guess that I need perhaps 10 off 10mm plugs perhaps too much to ask.
See you all soon.
Larry
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I did my car a few weeks back... Its the smallest car I own and yet I used twice as much wax!
There are a lot of box sections on a pagoda and an extension tube for spraying into the cavities is a must.. I used over 10 litres to do my car as there are so many cavities.
I normally go over the exposed areas every two years - i.e. sills and wheel arches.
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Hello Larry,
I do not think there will be so many left when i have filled the holes i drilled,however, in the packet there are a lot of the smaller sizes, i will bring some of those.
Do you have a smaller diameter probe so that you can drill smaller holes? I will bring my smaller diameter probe and you can borrow it,please remember to lower the working pressure when using the small diameter probe(i will tell you what happens when you do not,will not make your day)
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I have small diameter probes no problem. Don't worry too much about the plugs i can get some from Frost as I will need more
than I originally thought. Have you used plugs anywhere other than the sills? Thanks anyway Eric.
Larry
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Remember to dip the plugs into the wax before plugging them in - helps them seal better, prevents rust from the exposed metal of the drilled hole and makes them easier to remove for a "refill".
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Interesting that no one from the US is involved in this conversation. ;D
FWIW, I don't know of anyone using these products here....more common are the permanent Schutz / Stoneguard type "protectants". Curious why the different approach......
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Hello Rick
What product do you guys in the US inject into the cavities,sills,chassis frame,crossmembers,etc.
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Guess it's because of the climate - here in for instance Denmark it's pretty damp in spring and autumn and the winter roads are always covered in salt. A with the world record in purchase tax on cars (180% + 25% VAT !!!), we're pretty keen on preserving our cars...
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There is a 'Body Preservation Plan' issued by the factory in 1970 which shows what we are doing. The pdf is too large to post here but I can e-mail to anyone
who would like a copy.
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I would love a copy of it in a PM
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I can upload to the Technical Manual... just mail it to me at admin@sl113.org !
Peter
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Very enlightening. I had no idea there was factory body preservation plan.
Here in the "States" we have many areas with similarly harsh salt and moisture ridden climates (as evidenced by the healthy supply of vehicles with varying degrees of corrosion).
The only similar application here in the US was the aftermarket "rustproofing" industry popular in the 1970s and 1980s. Ziebart was one of the leaders back in the day (still around @ http://www.ziebart.com/rust_protection.php (http://www.ziebart.com/rust_protection.php). However, it appeared that the techniques employed actually introduced and/or accelerated rust issues. Perhaps due to inadequate application, sealing, materials etc. This practice has pretty much all but disappeared as far as I can tell. Especially with the widespread use of Galvanized body panels.
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The file is now uploaded here: http://www.sl113.org/wiki/ChassisBody/Rust
Thanks to Gnuface.
Peter
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So, were cars delivered with the wax treatment which needed to be replenished after a particular milestone was met?