Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: dseretakis on June 10, 2010, 13:38:46
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I'm looking for a good quality dino oil to run in my 71 280SL that has an adequate ZDDP content. What do you guys recommend? Is Valvoline 20w50 VR1 a good oil for this purpose?
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I run a high quality 10w30 dino oil with the additive Zddplus to put the zinc in. Here is the site http://www.zddpus.com/ . I have not so good seals and I put in full synthetic once and it ran out almost as fast as I put it in. It still leaks with dino, but not near as bad. My front seal leaks and my valve seals are not so good, there on the list of things to do though.
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Do you add the ZDDP? My understanding is that that 10w30 is too lightweight of an oil for a Mercedes.
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Do you add the ZDDP? My understanding is that that 10w30 is too lightweight of an oil for a Mercedes.
I hope not -- been using Castrol 10/30 for 10 years... I change it every 2500 or so miles. Add nothing.
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Lack of ZDDP is a very real issue in modern oils. I don't feel comfortable using an oil that had low levels of this stuff.
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It was suggested in a recent article in STAR (March/April 2010 page 66-67) to use a 20w-50 for the older cars in warmer temperatures. Castrol and Valvoline were the brands suggested. For cars in colder temps, it said a 15w-40 is appropriate.
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I believe the owners manual calls for a 10W30 for 113s. But after 40 plus years, a little extra film strength is warranted.
For those that are interested, new Passenger Car Motor Oils (PCMO) have evolved away from the anti wear protection that is offered by ZDDP (Zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate) due to problem related to catalytic converters. That doesn't mean that there is no ZDDP or that alternative anti wear additives can't provide the same level of protection.
For older or high performance engines that are not worried about catalytic converters, look for a good brand of Heavy Duty engine oil (HDEO) The difference can be noted by the specifications. "S" in the API approval (current approval is SM) stands for "spark" ignition. HDEOs are identified as "C" for "compression" ignition. Many of todays HDEO also carry PCMO approvals. The key factor with HDEOs is that they are required to pass a valve train wear test to meet the specification. So HDEO have a "full treat" of ZDDP. The latest HDEO spec is CJ-4. I would recommend a 15w40 or 15w50 with a CJ-4 API approval. You could also go with a 20w50 (like Valvoline 20w50 VR1) that will say something like "meets the requirements of SM" It will not say "licensed SM"
As for oil treatments, use your best judgement but there is a lot of research that goes into developing todays motor oils. Dumping something on top of a well engineered oil formulation would not be my choice. I can assure you that none of the major oil additive manufacturers (Oronite, Infineum, Lubrizol or Afton) recommend "top treatments" for their formulas.
Oh, and, "synthetic" vs. "conventional" is a whole different topic. Mobil lost their law suit trying to protect their Mobil 1 PAO formula when the courts determined that the industry does not adequately define the term "synthetic" Today's synthetic products can be made with PAOs, Group II or Group III refined oils.
Norm
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I have been told that Shell Rotella T, 15W40 is intended for the severe duty of diesel engines and has more ZDDP. I have been using it in my 280sl for about 2 years.
Gus
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I run a high quality 10w30 dino oil with the additive Zddplus to put the zinc in. Here is the site http://www.zddpus.com/ . I have not so good seals and I put in full synthetic once and it ran out almost as fast as I put it in. It still leaks with dino, but not near as bad. My front seal leaks and my valve seals are not so good, there on the list of things to do though.
I went to the website you suggested and ordered some ZDDP plus additive.
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My shop only uses Valvoline and I have always used 20-50W. Prior to this Castrol GTX has been my favorite.
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Brad Penn One Green Racing Oil. 20 w 50. Researched and tested. Additives are the worst way to go, oil mixology is not for amateurs.
http://www.bradpennracing.com/Zinc.aspx
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Yes the valvoline 20w50 VR1 and the Bradd Penn green oil have both been recommended to me. I'll use the ZDDP additive on the oil supply I currently have and then buy the either Valvoline or Brad Penn. I think that the Brad Penn stuff is really cool. The base stock comes from Pennsylvania and is considered some of the finest in the world. I spoke with them a while back and they were extremely friendly and helpful. The problem is that it is difficult to find the stuff. It abounds in Western NY and I do go there a few times per year so maybe I'll just stock up.
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I have been using Castrol 20/50 for the 37 years in spring & summer.
10/30 for fall & winter when in storage with no problems as of yet.
I have tryed synthetic 10/30 and found that the car would smoke at idle.
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http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf
I'm using Mobil 1 15W 50
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Jeff, that chart was very helpful. M1 15w50 definitely makes the cut at 1300 ppm of Zinc.
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Kendall GT-1 20-50 This was recommended by Scott Melnick as the only oil to use after the Metric rebuild. A little harder to find, but I've followed the advice with good results.
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If you are looking for ZDDP content, VR1 has one of the highest concentrations of all the engine oils without going to a non-street legal oil for race engines (yes there is such a thing see Valvolines website). I use the SAE 50 version in my Truck all ready because it has a 292 flat tappet cam and have never had a complaint about it. I'm also looking into putting into my 71 280sl once I get to the point where I can start driving it regularly (right now it just has straight 30).
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After having done some research I found that the Valvoline VR-1 20w50 contains 1200 ppm zinc which is the proper amount to protect our engines. I bought some at Autozone the other day. I'm glad that it's so readily available. As I mentioned earlier I also purchased some ZDDP additive which I'll be using with some 10w40 oil without adequate zinc levels of which I already have a good stock.