Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: Tonys113 on February 22, 2010, 15:35:12
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So you never told me I had to stand on my head with my hands behind my back, looking into a mirror to undo that bolt.
I have been threatening myself to remove the IP from my 69 Euro model since my return from the PUB 09. Finally got enough ambition up Saturday to tackle the task.
I suppose installing that IP and Fuel Lines are much easier with no CAR surrounding the motor but I think I used nearly every tool in my arsenal to get that thing out of the car.
Up hear in western NY on Saturday it was a balmy 15 degrees and sunny, but a toasty warm 75 in the garage with the heater on. Good thing, warmth helps keep the frustration level to a minimum. Can't wait have to put it back in.
Tony
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So you never told me I had to stand on my head with my hands behind my back, looking into a mirror to undo that bolt.
Tony
Which one was that?
naj
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Hi Naj,
None in particular, however the 13mm nut on the pump flange closest to the block is quite blind from above. Of course without the convenience of a lift...
And did I forget to mention that the High Pressure Line from the AC unit on my car will no allow me to remove the fuel line to the CSV without either removing AC line thus loosing the CHARGE or bending the fuel line in such a way as to forever disfigure it.
Or the line line between say 15 degrees of advance and 25 degrees of advance when trying to turn the crank shaft by hand from above, with the fan blades in the way. Not to mention the busted knuckle from slamming into the battery tray.
Reverse Engineering at its best!
Tony
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Hello Tony,
Looks like you have some ambitious winter projects under way!
Try using 13mm flex socket (with the built in universal joint) along with a nice long extention for the nut between the engine and IP ( 3/8" drive) . I use some black electrical tape around the u-joint so the connection is not so limp.
There are two good ways to get the nut on the lower IP flange connection. Remove the fuel filter and you will have plenty of room to use a 13mm wrench from below. Or you can also use a 13mm flex socket (1/4" drive this time) and about a 12 inch long extention (also 1/4 drive). With the extensions you will actually be working behind the injection pump and have plenty of room.
When removing the IP line fittings, start from the rear-most one loosening it completely. Slide the 17mm fitting up the line and out of the way before going to the next one. You can get each line easily with a open end wrench this way.
Take care,
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Hello Tony,
Did you happen to check to see if the IP timing was set correctly when you removed the Pump ?
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Joe,
Yes the notches were aligned correctly.
Tony