Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: johnshenry on December 07, 2009, 19:29:19
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I just bought a '68 280 in Nov, got to drive it a bit, but sadly with this weekends light snowfall in New England, they put salt and sand on the roads. Game over.
I have 2 vintage VWs that I used to go nuts winterizing, but over the years have slacked off quite a bit. It usually only for about 5 months. I usually just put about 35l lbs of air in the tires (Beetles normally go 17/24 front and rear) and take the batteries out and store them in the basement. Take the wipers off the windshield, open the doors just a tad and cover them (stored indoors).
The Benz now shares some of the storage space. I bought a nice cover for it. Hardtop is currently off of it, soft top up. I put about 40lbs of air in the tires.
What else?
I do have access to the space over the winter, but depending on how much snow we get, I can't really get anything in or out of there. Have power and compressed air in there. I had a battery freeze (cracked) in one of my VWs a few winters ago, so I am concerned about that.
Would I be better to leave the battery in the 280, maybe on a trickle charger and go start it once a month or so? Or best to just take the battery out and store it in the basement? The back end of the car is right at the door, so I could run it without fume accumulation problems.
Anything else to do?
We are EAGERLY waiting next spring and warm weather to truly enjoy this 113....
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My routine:
Fresh oil and filter, grease if needed.
Stabil in FULL tank of gas, run to get Stabil through system.
Battery MAINTAINER connected, in car.
Tires 45 lb.
Top up, windows down about 1/2", doors shut on first latch, not fully closed.
Cover with car cover
Don't touch it again until you can get it out and drive it to full warm.
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I'm sure you can also get them in the US but I hook up any batteries that will be sitting for awhile to a 5W solar panel. One of our local hardware stores sells these for keeping batteries charged and they are equipped with a regulator to prevent overcharging. Sell here for about $60. Hang the solar panel outside or even inside near a window that allows the sun to shine in. I have 3 tractors I use these on over the winter months and they work great. In the spring unhook it from the battery and store it till next winter.
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Mouse traps
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Hello,
Good advice and I agree with John, better to let it set until you can take it out and run it on a nice dry day. Some FI experts add a bit of 2 cycle motor oil to the last tank of fuel to keep the Mechanical injection pump and electric fuel pump lubed up during storage. As John suggests, change the oil before storage so the engine goes into hibernation without all the contaminants and acids found in dirty old engine oil.
Coolant turns to acid after a couple years, make sure it is fresh also. Fresh coolant will also help lubricate your water pump. MB antifreeze is formulated for their engines and is best but others will work in a pinch.
Brake fluid absorbs moisture with age. Plan on flushing brake fluid every two or three years and you will not have to worry about brake calipers getting rusted stuck from sitting. Rubber brake hoses go bad from age. Put these on your "things to do" list along the way at some point.
As Tosh indicates be concerned about mice, moths, etc. I have seen many perfect stored soft tops ruined by mice. They chew up other interior materials to build a nice nest in the stored soft tops after chewing a few holes in it first! Consider storing the hard top off the car and the soft top up and covered. That original square weave wool carpet is a real treat for moths.
Any battery should be kept charged or it will not last.
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Thanks for the tips. I should be able to get it out, run it until warm and change the oil and filter. I am storing it with the soft top up, hard top off. I know about mice, I keep traps and poison packets around in the storage bay. You would not believe the places I have seen them build nests in the aircooled VWs (all those little nooks and crannies under that engine tin). We also always leave the glove boxes open so they won't chew into those irreplaceable carbboard glove boxes.
I haven't had this car long enough to do anything mechanical to it. Is there any place online that covers oil change, and maybe coolant flush? The guy I bought from had it for 11 years, and while it is in wonderful shape, I am not sure how much of a maintenance nut he was.
I learned today that the freezing point of a freshly charged battery is -75F! 75% charged, about -17F, so trick is to definitely keep it charged!
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Hello,
You should be able to search up plenty of information on an oil and coolant change on this site. Be especially careful to make sure the upper rubber filter seal is in the oil filter upper housing.
Also check the Technical Manual on this site for information.
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I learned today that the freezing point of a freshly charged battery is -75F! 75% charged, about -17F, so trick is to definitely keep it charged!
Most home garages, even unheated ones, in most places don't see much below freezing (if they are ATTACHED garages). I live in Michigan and my storage garage "up north" only sees below freezing (that is, below 0C or 32F) when there is extended periods of temperatures 10 degrees F or below. That isn't that often, and has not happened every year. The battery freezing, even on partially discharged batteries, happens in temperatures not often seen where we live...right Chan?? :D
My own personal opionion is I would NOT want anything "plugged in" like a trickle charger, that is unattended such as in a storage garage or someplace remote from where you are living. While rare, any number of things can happen to something plugged in and unattended, the worst of course, being a fire. I have a Mercedes-Benz battery (n.b. not known for longevity compared to many others) purchased in 2004/2005 I believe, and it gets stored (in the car) unattended and with no trickle charger on it every winter. I charge the battery to full before storage; and it rarely drains itself below 75% over the long winter. I charge it to full again in April when I fetch the car. I have not had an issue with ithis battery (save for the time this year that the mechanic drained it by leaving the door open all day with the courtesy light on...) and would expect I will need replacement as a simple matter of course in the next year or two. Most people who have "failed" batteries discover their problem in winter (CCA: does that parameter ring a bell?). BTW, it took JA17's "big-a#@" battery charger an hour at PUB to bring mine back after the mechanic nearly did it in!!!
If you store your car remotely where nobody (like yourself!) will be "attending it" regularly, and you are very interested in the very best battery protection, it is probably best to remove the battery from the car and take it with you to a place where you CAN look after it. Store it fully charged, and if you want, put a trickle charger on it.
DO YOUR HOMEWORK. Note that even the "brand name" battery tenders, while claiming "UL Compliance" are NOT UL TESTED or CE rated. I wonder why? Unless you fuse them specifically, it is quite possible that a low-voltage condition (I've had this at my home and business many times in the past) could cause a high current condition and cause a short. Rare, but it could happen. If you look at how these things generally connect (with spring-loaded clamps like a set of mini-jumper cables) you can understand that it is possible for these clamps to spring off--and possibly causing a short too. You can hard wire them with certain models or options. The thought of even the possibility of an electrical fire really frightens me. I'd rather buy batteries a little more often.
Just my opinion. Here's some information from a battery manufacturer:
NOTE: Storing, charging or operating batteries on concrete is perfectly OK. The most important things to avoid:
Freezing. Avoid locations where freezing temperature is expected. Keeping battery at a high state of charge will also prevent freezing. Freezing results in irreparable damage to battery's plates and container. [Freezing can happen between -19 F (40% charge) and -98 F (fully charged)]
Heat. Avoid direct exposure to heat sources, such as radiators or space heaters. Temperatures above 80° F accelerate the battery's self-discharge characteristics.
Step by step storage procedure: 1. Completely charge the battery before storing. 2. Store the battery in a cool, dry location, protected from the elements. 3. During storage, monitor the specific gravity (flooded) or voltage. Batteries in storage should be given a boost charge when they show a 70% charge or less. Completely charge the battery before re-activating.
So what THAT says is the battery will freeze, at a 40% charge, at -19F. Well, let me say this about that. First, if you are storing your car at -19F, you should find a better storage location, something that is a little warmer than that!. If your battery is at 40% charge, you have a battery issue to begin with! Correct both of those situations, and you'll be better off! ;)
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I am skeptical of those trickle/battery maintainer devices. The 280 is stored in an addition to my detached shop building which is heated but only when I use it. While there is some sheltering and maybe a little bit "parasite" heat there, I'd bet the temp is witihin 1-2 degrees of outdoor ambient during sunless and/or dark times. Especially if the wind is blowing as the bay is well vented in the soffits. Nonetheless, I am sure a battery would not freeze unless fully depleted. The one I lost in my VW was pretty old and was probably at near zero charge.
The guy I bought the 280 from had just put a new battery in it. I think I will leave it in the car and put a low current charger on it for a day or so mid winter. It is accessible to me although I might need boots to get to it. My other option is to take it out like I do my VW batteries and put it in the basement. I usually charge them for a couple 8-12 hour sessions over the winter too.
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My battery maintainers are hard wired (provided) to the battery and connect with an insulated plug. I put them on all of my cars over winter. You run a greater risk of the battery blowing up if it's heavily discharged or dead when you turn the key in spring. Naturally, charging before starting can deal with this issue, but letting a battery run dead does shorten it's life. Maintainers are different than triclkle chargers. Maintainers charge and discharge the battery to reduce sulpher(?) build up on the battery cells.
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Alternative Winterizing Plan:
My New York City car goes out about once every 4 weeks during the Winter. Can usually find a weekend day with moderate temperatures and no snow on the ground.
If the roads have been salted, I wait until there has been a "cleansing rain" before going out.
The car shows no ill effects from a 4 to 6 week cycle...the battery has plenty of kick...and all the juices are ready to flow including mine.
So rather than put it up on blocks, stabilize the gas, etc, I take her our for a some Winter fresh air. After all, the car was intended to be out in the Bavarian Winter...climbing the Alps on those Austrian ski trips.
If the weather in the area is at all cooperative, I suggest this "take her out" Winter plan...it's a lot easier and a lot more enjoyable.
Richard M, NYC
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Richard...
that's my plan too... and I occasionally take it out when there's been a light snow - but no salt yet - too! Great Fun!
Peter
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John,
This may be a dumb question but, why do you crack your doors and windows. In Dallas, cold weather isn't usually much of a significant concern although it is supposed to be around 20*F tonight.
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John,
This may be a dumb question but, why do you crack your doors and windows. In Dallas, cold weather isn't usually much of a significant concern although it is supposed to be around 20*F tonight.
Keeps your door seals from being crushed over the long winter and eventually not sealing as well. Getting your windshield wipers off the windshield also make the rubber last longer, same idea.
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John,
This may be a dumb question but, why do you crack your doors and windows. In Dallas, cold weather isn't usually much of a significant concern although it is supposed to be around 20*F tonight.
As John said, let the seals stay plump. Whenever I park the car in the garage, the doors are on the first click. Windows, to let air circulate and not have the car get all musty inside.
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.....I am lucky to be living in " Beautiful British Columbia "......there are enough dry sunny days during the winter to drive the car frequently.......
but I do disconnect the battery when not using the car for some days ( weeks ? ) via a clever little shutoff switch installed permanently on the negative terminal and activated by a knurled knob that dis- and re- connects the battery with a twist of the knob......removing the knob entirely is a good anti-theft procedure......bought mine at "Princes -Auto" for five bucks.
CHEERS !
WITT ! ;)
Richard...
that's my plan too... and I occasionally take it out when there's been a light snow - but no salt yet - too! Great Fun!
Peter