Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: dsayars on November 26, 2009, 00:27:37
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The idler arm assembly for the 113 (mercedes part 111-460-13-19) is two things actually, the idler arm with its bushings, spring, etc .that come in the repair kit (mercedes part 1114600050), and the unit that houses all this, which is tee-shaped that goes right through the frame rail. (If you've ever lubed one of these and wondered where it's all going, this is where: it's like a pipe full of the old grease going though the rail to the other side.)
Procedures for repairing/rebuilding the idler arm (kit is part number 1114600050) seem to assume that you're doing this with the housing still in place, withdrawing the idler arm from below after removing the nut or bolt on the top, replacing the parts, then doing the reverse. I've never seen instructions on how to remove the housing itself and to look at it, there's no obvious way. Does anyone know how this is done? I can't even find a picture of it removed.
The reason I ask is that I'd like to be able to bring the whole assembly to the front end man and have him do the idler arm rebuild kit without my having to bring the car in. To do that, I'd have to reassemble the attaching linkage just to have to him disassemble it again (to remove the idler arm), then reassemble it again and charge me for the time.
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The part number for the piece that holds the idler arm is 111 460 00 38, called a "trunion bearing." Its on the "Front Panel" page of the EPC. I always thought it was welded to the frame. There aren't any attachment parts shown.
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The part number for the piece that holds the idler arm is 111 460 00 38, called a "trunion bearing." Its on the "Front Panel" page of the EPC. I always thought it was welded to the frame. There aren't any attachment parts shown.
Thanks. The part number I gave must be just the arm itself. You're probably right that it's welded on, but it would be job just getting it clean enough to see the welds. Since the new bearing apparently requires reaming, it looks like I'll need to take the car to the shop.
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I'll need to take the car to the shop.
Probably cheaper and quicker too!
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Hello Naj,
Great photograph but how can you weld in the water expansion tank bracket after painting?
Have you got a photograph of the other side?
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Hello Naj,
Great photograph but how can you weld in the water expansion tank bracket after painting?
Have you got a photograph of the other side?
Hello, Eric,
This is a 230 chassis. The expansion tank has a 2 bolt bracket to the firewall and a vertical strutt that bolts on the the ribbed part of the chassis rail.
Note the multi-layered pad.
naj
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Did you double up on the pad or was it purchased like that.
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Hi, Eric,
These picturea is not from my car.
I did have a layered sheet (6' x 5; approx) like this one supplied by MB when I ordered a firewall pad back in 2002.
naj
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Here is the post on replacing the bushing in the trunion.
http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=3747.15
If you decide to do it, follow BenzDr's instructions carefully.
I was able to do it on my fintail last summer withoug reaming. By far the worst part was getting the big nut off the top of the tube, which required removal of the exhaust system and manifolds.
I am going to do the same repair in my 230SL next week, and it looks like there is more clearance to get at the nut.