Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => General Discussion => Topic started by: Ben on February 10, 2004, 08:54:38
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My drivers door, which has always been difficult to close since I have owned the car, has now taken to opening whilst driving!
Kinda dangerous to put it mildly. I am in no danger of falling out due to the seat belts but I dont fancy wrapping the door around something or somebody else !!
So what is the part I need, a whole new lock, whats worn, can I fix it ?? Maybe theres a weak spring in there. I havent taken it apart yet but I plan to this weekend and any advice would be appreciated.
Also plan to adjust my windows to suit the hardtop while I'm at it!!
Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
'03 CLK Kompressor
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Hi, Ben
Try moving the latch on the door jamb out by a mm or two.That worked for me.
The latch is held on the mounting plate with just one rivet and works loose. Worth a try to knock this rivet to get a better fit. If not, new latch is a much better design but I haven't fitted one yet.
naj
65 230SL
68 280SL
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Hey Ben.
I had a similar problem. It was definitely unnerving when the door popped open around corners ... my fear wasn't falling out but having the door fling open and rip off its hinges!
Anyway, initially I adjusted the striker plate side of things and it helped for a while. But eventually even this didn't help. The problem was the latch was worn down and was rounded and wouldn't grab. In the end, I called Ray (then of Star Quality) and bought a new door latch for about $160 US. It fit right in -- it didn't have anything to do with the lock. Door shuts like it should and stays that way!
Good Luck
James
63 230SL
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Hello Ben,
Wear on the latch mechanism in the door or the "locking eye" on the door jamb can cause these kind of problems. As Naj has posted, raising the "locking eye" from the door jamb one or two mm will usually compensate for the wear. Loosen the locking eye mounting screws on the door jamb and slide a shim between it and the door jamb (the factory often shims these when new). Move the locking eye outward and only snug the screws. Close the door to align the locking eye. If everything works ok and the door is aligned correctly tighten down the locking eye mounting screws. You should feel two distinct latch points (partial close and fully closed). The door should be nice and flush at the seam. Apply a little grease to the locking eye and mechanism. This procedure will work 95% of the time. In severe cases replacement of the door mechanism and/or locking eye is required. The factory part number for the shims are 110-723-0211 (2mm) and 110-723-0311 (2.6mm). The part number for the "locking eye" is 110-720-1604 (right) and 110-720-1504 (left). As indicated by the parts numbers, these parts are the same as on many Mercedes sedans of that era!
Email for more details if needed.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
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Thanks folks for the suggestions. The "eye" already has some shims there, though they are like corrugated metal foil, possibly homemade. Also the "eye" does feel a bit loose.
I'll dissemble it and try to tighten that rivet and then reset it. That might sort it hopefully !
Is there any chance something will drop off the back of these bolts as I remove them or are the parts captivated ?
Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
'03 CLK Kompressor
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Ben
When you take the three screws off, the back plate will drop into the wing abyss and you will have to take the wing off to retreive it!! :D
Just ;)
naj
65 230SL
68 280SL
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Hello Ben and Naj,
Unless the door jamb has been modified the thread plate will not drop into the chasis. The thread plate is in a "cage" normally, which allows it to move for adjustment but holds it from falling.
The waffle like shims are factory. You may need to add another! A impact screwdriver is the tool of choice for removing the screws which hold these eyes.
Adjusting doors and latches takes a lot of experimentation and practice!
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
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Hello again Ben,
Close the door and check how it lines-up with the front fender and the rear. Use the passenger side for comparison. You may find that the door is sagging down at the jamb. This is usually the result of people hanging on the open door or improper installation after repair. The body line above the door handle should line up with the body line on the rear quarter. With the eye completely loose or removed,close the door and check the body lines and gaps. If the door is sagging toward the back adjust it back into place. When the door is adjusted,the latch may begin to work properly again.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
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Thanks for the info guys !
One question though, Joe if the door has dropped, do I adjust it at the hinges someplace ?
Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
'03 CLK Kompressor
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Hello Ben,
How are the winters in Ireland ?
Anyway, if the door lines are correct in the front and not aligned in the rear,loosen tbe lower hinge bolts on the door (not the jamb) open the door slightly and lift the door from the bottom, this will raise the rear of the door. Retighten the bolts. Loosen the door jamb "eye" and close the door and check the lines. If the lines are correct, lightly tighten the "eye" and close the door. When the door latches correctly and the lines are correct tighten up the "eye". Normally the "eye" will need to be bumped out after each door closing until the final tightening.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
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Hello Ben and all.
Yep, I had the same problem, and agree with all of the observations made by others for the 'fix'. Two really basic things (so basic I am embarrassed to mention them) also help, and offer peace of mind. First, I automatically ask any passenger to engage the safety lock on the door, and I keep it engaged whenever travelling alone. (I only do this in the Pagoda; I feel claustrophobic doing it in my other cars). Second, I always ask passengers to take care not to slam the car door when closing it (and I take the same care, of course). I found that this greatly increased the periods between which it became necessary te re-adjust the eye on the door frame: as the shim is original, it doesn't grab as well as it once did, and slamming the doors pushes back the eye a fraction each time. When I can work up the enthusiasm, new shims are on the to-do list.
Cheers,
kns.
1965 230SL, Manual
[1965 220SEb Coupe, Man.]
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Hi Joe,
Yeah the Winters here are just miserable ! It doesn't really get cold just hovers around 0deg C each night so there is frost in the mornings. Then it generally rains a lot which is bad enough but every stretch of road has a building site on it and nobody cleans up so you get all manner of mud and crud splashing up around the car. You really have to get cleaning into those rolled wheel arch lips before the tin worm starts !!
I just did all this at the weekend and it took half the day !!
Anyway because of the above I never looked at the door. I'll do it tomorrow night and I am feeling confidant!!
Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
'03 CLK Kompressor
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Got it sorted thanks to everyones help !
I removed the "eye", something I didn't want to do previously for fear of dropping something into the door jamb. The eye was quite loose so I hammered the rivets tight, revitted and adjusted it. It now closes much better than ever and more to the point doesn't swing open !!
I also fitted the check roller repair kit, a 5 minute job, and the door feels much better now !
This weekend I plan to located and sort the one final water leak I have into the car and then fit the new carpet set !
Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
'03 CLK Kompressor
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my door when driving It clicks open one steap not the whole way anyone know this problem?
thanks
Erick
1971 280sl
1962 VW
1954 Allstate vespa
1958 gs150 vespa
1962 gs160 vespa
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anyone???
thanks
1971 280sl
1962 VW
1954 Allstate vespa
1958 gs150 vespa
1962 gs160 vespa
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Hi Erik.
That was similar to what was happening with mine. Scroll down for my solution. In my case, adjustments didn't work -- only a new door latch from SL Classics. Works like new now.
James
63 230SL