Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: JimVillers on October 22, 2009, 19:44:32
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I have the automatic transmission out of a 230SL because the engine needs to be rebuilt. Are there any repair or maintenance tasks that should be done as a "target of opportunity" with the transmission on the bench.
It is not from my car so I can't say if there were issues wi5t it or not. I read about welding up the rivits of the torque converter and I'll take a look at them for leakage. There was enough oil underneath that I could not determine if it was transmission, power steering pump (leaking) or engine oil.
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Would suggest at least replacing the radial seal at the front pump, where the shaft from the hydraulic clutch is inserted. This is a common source of leaks and requires removal of the transmission to change if it leaks in the future. It looks like the current part number is 008 997 91 46, US list $17.50, my price $12.92.
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When I had mine out I repaced all the seals by buying a rebuild kit. I went as far to pull my valve body a off to clean it and to replace the seals on it. Do i recommend this at home "no" but i think replacing the modulator and all the copper and aluminum washer seals would be prudent before reinstallation.
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Yes, the front seal is a must. You can pressure check (with air) the torque converter to see if you have leakage around the rivets or hub. Install a new filter and pan gasket and check the torque on the valve body bolts while the filter is out (these bolts like to loosen up over the years).
Next level of difficulty is consider replacing the Large o-ring around the front pump of the transmission (front transmission cover removal and front pump removal required), rear seal (slotted nut and flange removal required), and the ruubber modulator diaphram replacement (modulator adjustments may be needed afterward). At the very least check the rubbrer diaphram to see if it good.
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Thanks guys. There is no apparent leakage so I think that I'll just do the pan, filter, check bolts and the front coupling seal.
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Jim,
Take this for what it is--a story.
When my engine was out 1n 1999-2001, I asked the same question. There was no group like this, however.
In the interest of saving money, I opted to leave the transmission alone, :-\ as opposed to swapping out for a rebuilt.
After all was put back there was a transmission leak. >:(
Took it to a place here, and the mechanic comes back and says, "good news and bad news. good news is I found the leak and it's a seal that cost $5. bad news is labor is 8 hours to get the tranmission in and out. OK, there goes $600 just to fix the leak. Oops, $605.00 :)
Fixed the leak and all was well :) for about 2 months. Started making noise. :o
One day it just exploded. :'( The casting of the transmission case was broken. U-joints twisted. Drive shaft destroyed. :'(
Cost to repair: new tranmission $1,200; new drive shaft $500; labor $600. That was in 2001.
Total savings initially: $1,000. The cost after the fact, of my savings: $2,900. One of the few, but large mistakes I made on the car.
I know what I learned is this: unless I personally am absolutely, positively 100% knowledgeable about the integrity of a big expensive part that cost a lot of time and effort and money to remove, and the service life remaining, it will get replaced or rebuilt before I put it back. But hey, that's just me. ;D
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Hello Jim,
Make sure the torque converter is fully engaged and all the way in the front pump before installing the transmission. Otherwise when you tighten the transmission down, you will destroy the front pump.
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Joe .... Thanks for the clues. Swapping the torque converter seal was a piece of cake. Getting the converter to fully seat took a little time, wiggling and turning.