Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => General Discussion => Topic started by: vaqua55 on October 05, 2009, 18:39:48
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Is it me or my 68 250SL seems to be sitting higher on the front? Any information would be very helpful as I am not sure if my rear springs are over compressed? If I need to change them how and where can I buy the springs?
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Dear Vaqua,
This is hard to say from these pictures.
A correct side view will show clearer and better results.
It's not unusual if the car is a bit higher at the front.
Yes, springs can become a little tired with the years, mostly it is the compensating spring above the rear axle because it has the lowest wire diameter.
Pretty straight forward to replace.
New springs are available from Mercedes and aftermarket as well as (some) sport kits.
Sometimes the replacement of the rubber mounting rings above the springs will already do the job.
Good luck!
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Take some measurements from the center of the star in the hubcap to the underside of the fender and let us know what you get at each corner.
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Jim Villers did a presentation on this problem. Have a look through the various videos http://www.sl113.org/index.php/VideoInstruction.html
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Thanks for great information as this is helping, I will take measurement and give you the numbers but here are some pictures from bith sides of the car, what do you think?
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THe other side
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Measurements are as follows:
Middle of the star from the hubcap to the edge of the fender:
FL:15"
FR:15.2"
RL:13"
RR:13"
Opinions are welcome.
Thanks
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Looks like a very nice car!
At first glance I'd say the front appears to be high. Can you describe the rear wheels? Maybe some pics would help. What I'm looking for is the camber of the swing axle. With a tank full of gas how do the rear wheels sit. Do they tow out/tow in?
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Here is a picture from the back with an EMPTY GAS TANK!
It seems to be that the rear wheels are VERY SLIGHTLY TOW OUT?
Hope this helps, I do not seem to have acess to the VIDEO from the post can someone email them to me or the actual link?
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Have you had a chance to look at these earlier posts? http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=3903.0
Its hard to tell from your picture but would you say the rear has positive camber (angled out at the top) or the opposite negative camber? The spec says rear camber with the hard top on and a full tank of gas should be +1.5 degrees plus or minus .05. I think it is common to have a little more negative camber in the rear to combat oversteer.
There are three springs in the rear axle design. In addition to the option of new springs MB uses a variety of spring pads to to fine tune the suspension height. These springs and pads need to work together in order to achieve the correct stance. This may need to be a sort of trial and error effort where you add spacers to the top of the rear springs and then take some new measurements.
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Mine is 15.25 from the center of the star to the lip of the front fender on both sides. '67 250 SL
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This post got me curious, so went out and measured mine...
From center of the star to the lip of the fender measures 14 inches on all wheels, except my right rear which measures 13.5 inches.
I have a full tank of gas. Not sure what the deal is with my right rear? Maybe when I sit in the car it levels out with my weight :o... I hope... ;D
Bob
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This seems to be a multi-generational issue with SLs. Weight and time the likely culprit.
For reference:
I included before and after pics of a 107 / 380 SL that I refreshed a few years ago (as if it's not obvious lol). I went with the later 560 SL springs instead of 380 SL components because they were reported to be stiffer. Prior to the spring replacement I installed new sub frame bushings and pads with no apparent effect on the stance. The spring pic shows the contrast between a 20 yo+ spring and the new one I ultimately installed. Quite a bit of difference and a satisfying result.
Not sure if a 113 / 280 SL spring would accomplish the same for earlier 250 and/or 230 cars. Are the part numbers the same for these parts though the 113 lifespan? Just a thought. Below is a profile pic showing what looks to be the 113's intended stance.
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Thanks for all input as it looks like I will need to replace the rear springs as they are truly worn out,
WHAT IS THE PART NUMBER OF THE SPRINGS THAT I AM LOOKING FOR AND WHERE CAN I BUY THEM FROM FOR REPLACEMENT?
Is there any instruction for replacement of the rear spring?
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Hello,
Beware, some suppliers are selling sedan front sub frame mounts in place of W113 versions. They are exactly the same except they are a little taller ( about a 1/4 "). To avoid this pit fall be sure the subframe mounts you buy have a part number starting with 113 if the number starts with 108 they are the wrong taller sedan version.
I have a 26,000 mile original 280SL in my shop right now and the front measurement is 14.25" and the rears are 13.75" chances are rubber is original and slightly compressed over the years but looks fairly good.
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Any the major question is do I replace the springs on both side or the one that is in the middle of the rear frame (not sure if that is a spring or not) wish I had a pictorial of the rear complete axle!
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Here are some diagrams of the springs. Hope they help.
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Here is the second one. A thin rubber pad is used on the bottom of the main rear springs. A thicker pad, used for adjusting ride height, is located on the top of the spring. These pads come in different thicknesses.
Rubber pads are also located on both ends of the compensating spring. These also come in varying thicknesses. There is a lot of discussion about springs and ride height under the search term "progressive springs". Many of us have opted for "sport springs" and we have examined ride height in great detail under this topic.
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Springs are something that is commonly overlooked on older cars.
If you believe your springs are 40+ years old you should change them as a matter of course; you'll be amazed at the improvement not only in ride height but quality of the ride as well.
The rubber pads on top of the springs do come in different sizes and are for fine tuning the ride height. Changing them entails removing the springs again.
Always buy your springs from MB. They're not expensive and, unless you're experienced and equipped to check spring rate, it's the easiest way to get it right.