Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items => Topic started by: n/a on March 09, 2003, 13:56:23
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Any thoughts on the use of "Gunk" or similar compounds to clean the engine compartment? Is it safe to use on the aluminum valve cover?
Steve
Vancouver, BC
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I can definitely recommend you do this. I used a Gunk-type de-greaser/cleaner on my engine bay a few months ago, and it sure made a BIG difference - and I never thought the engine was really that dirty. I applied it twice because the effect was so noticeable, but I think 90% of the dirt washed off with the first application. I did wrap the ignition and battery in plastic well, to avoid electrical problems. The aluminum cover did not show any effects of any overspray on it, but then the (European) product I used will probably be different from what you buy in Canada, so be sure to check the directions on the can. Just this morning I was considering cleaning the underside of the car (auto transmission, rear axle) with the cleaner as well but did not get around to that yet. First I am finally going to construct a manual hoist for the hardtop ...
white 1969 280 SL
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I also used a spray-on degreaser, let it stand for 15-20 minutes, then sprayed it off, using a 3500psi power washer. I had covered electrical parts and distributor first with plastic, and later had no problems, and the power washer seemed to get almost everything! I don't know if anyone else have had undesirable resilts or not with one though.
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after de-greasing the engine bay, i like to use simple green. it's very good with grease & oil and it's not too harsh.
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A mild degreasing agent on the intake manifold with a scrub brush can yield unbelieveable results. I also get under the hood with my dremel tool. There are lots ofbthings you can make real shiny.
Regards.
Ted 1969 280SL
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i have used off the shelf degreasers in the past with little luck in getting the desired amount of greass of the engine.
i am not saying that they dont work but i can tell you that i used one on my engine and after i thought that was the best it could get i stoped by a local detail shop and they steam cleaned my engine compartment.
I did not realize just how dirty it still was untill i saw how clean thay had gotten it.
I think i payed about $35 for the work and man was it worth it.
I figure by the time you spend and cost for 2 or 3 cans of degreaser it is about the same.
If you are having truble finding a detail shop that still seams engines
go by you local used car dealer and ask a salesman who they use.
Trust me you will be glad you did.
Jerry P.
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Cees, referring to your note below, if you have drawings of how a manual hoist should look, can you share them? Last weekend I made my wife very angry by insisting that she help me raise my top... she hurt herself and broke a fingernail!
Peter
Check out http://bali.esweb.nl for photographs of classic car events and my 1970 280 SL
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While there are a lot of engine degreasers on the market some can be too alkalin and stain aluminum alloy parts and too much moister can reak havic with the electrial relays. Steam cleaning surgically done can give good results. Use common sense when cleaning your engine and always plactic bag or wrap potenical problem areas like the distributor cap. A good tool to buy is a solvent gun. If you have an air compressor these tools can save a great deal of time in pip pointing dirty areas that need to be flushed clean.
Bob Geco
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Steve,
I tried all kinds of stuff to remove the caked-on crud. In the end, The solvent gun was the final solution. The high pressure air with entrained solvent really works great. Just remember to wear goggles and old clothes, and you will need a large pan under the engine to catch the run-off.
Regards,
Stan
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Here's a way to make a manual hardtop hoist that I will be using as a basis to make my own - one of the old posts on Yahoo, which will be all available in the technical articles section of this site:
In a piece of 1x4 wood, drill two holes to accept the male end of the lock down right behind the door. This seems to be the balancing point of the hard top. Then use nylon webbing and another piece of wood over the roof with appropriate padding. This second piece of wood keeps the straps away from the hard top. Then use two simple hooks on ropes to keep the top from tipping front to rear. A couple double pulleys to complete the job and the top is hanging up. Costs about $25 and a couple hours to make. To remove the top you simply put the wood under the top one side at a time, connect the straps and lift it up. To put it on you just lower it and slide out the wood and disconnect the strap.
Cees, getting close to the 100th post (wondering what the status will become then!)
white 1969 280 SL