Pagoda SL Group

W113 Pagoda SL Group => General Discussion => Topic started by: Cees Klumper on January 12, 2004, 00:13:14

Title: Valve cover finish
Post by: Cees Klumper on January 12, 2004, 00:13:14
Last weekend I worked on the valve cover. The look of the aluminum was not too good anymore and I have noticed the same on many other W113's. I've generally seen 2 variations:
- "original"/weathered. Not very attractive usually.
- highly polished/near-chrome. To me, also not very attractive, since it looks out of place with the rest of the engine (unless done to other parts of the engine as well, of which I am also not a big fan)

After some polishing and cleaning, I decided to spray-paint mine. I used an alloy wheel paint available in auto parts stores etc. Here's how it came out, and I'm quite pleased with it:

Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) DSC00570.JPG (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/cees%20klumper/20041121639_DSC00570.JPG)
62.1 KB

I expect this paint will last very well, since the valve cover does not get very hot.

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic
Title: Re: Valve cover finish
Post by: Benz Dr. on January 12, 2004, 00:50:31
I use a very soft glass bead in a blast cabinet followed by a light coating of engine oil on the cleaned surface. Once you remove all the old oxidation it will begin to go dull again after a while. The engine oil actually gets into the fresh porus metal and slows this process down while keeping the metal shiny.
I've painted them too but you have to remove any oil or grease for the paint to stick really well. A highly polished valve cover would probably hold in heat - think of a tea kettle.

Dan c
SL Barn

Daniel G Caron
Title: Re: Valve cover finish
Post by: Tom on January 12, 2004, 07:06:05
Cees, Dan:

Cees, I like the look of that valve cover!

I also was going to mention the bead blast alternative.  Dan, I wish I had known about the oil finish before I had mine bead blasted.  I had mine blasted and then coated.  The coating is now yellowing, which will likely require a reblast and oil finish.

Best,

Tom

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1971 280sl Tunis Beige Metallic
1971 280sl Tobacco Brown
1994 E320 Cabriolet, Smoke Silver
1999 E320 Wagon 4 matic, Brilliant Silver
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Title: Re: Valve cover finish
Post by: Cees Klumper on January 12, 2004, 14:49:53
I don't have (ready) access to any sort of blasting facility. So I used a wire wheel on the power drill to smooth the surface, finished the nooks and crannies with steel wool, then I used a degreaser + water rinse to thoroughly clean & remove any remaining dust/grease/oil etc. I would be surprised if the paint does not hold properly, but we'll find out. Anyway it was about two hours worth of work.

AFAIK, the valve cover gasket can be re-used untill it becomes hard/brittle. My old one is still very soft and pliable, so I figure it does not need replacement. They're about $15.

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic
Title: Re: Valve cover finish
Post by: n/a on January 12, 2004, 23:42:48
Find someone who has a hydrosonic parts washer. They work fantastic for this.
Title: Re: Valve cover finish
Post by: 230SL67 on January 13, 2004, 13:46:30
Simichrome brand polish that comes in a small tube also does a super job of giving the valve cover a nice satin appearance.  I did mine two years ago and it has not discolored at all.

Chris
Title: Re: Valve cover finish
Post by: Douglas on June 25, 2004, 11:33:35
Cees,

How has that painted valve cover of yours held up so far?

Douglas Kim
New York, NY
280 SL #016220
Title: Re: Valve cover finish
Post by: Cees Klumper on June 25, 2004, 15:42:02
Hello Doug - the cover still looks like in the photo I posted - after some 2,000 miles. Very nice!

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic